4corsa

Looking for a chin spoiler for my 02 Sport Scura. Please PM and send email to 749corsa@gmail.com if you have one available or have any leads where I might get one. Thanks, Greg

Ok thank you. So mine were obviously polished by the previous owner.

I've had my '02 Scura for 3 years now and is a bit overdue to re-polish the polished aluminum valve covers. I started in lightly with some ultra-fine steel wool (without much results), and was going to follow up with some Simichrome polish. This worked quite well with the aluminum valve cover on my old TVR 2500M. But it almost seems like the polished valve covers on the Scura may be clear coated, so I stopped before getting too far into it. Anyone know if they came from the factory with a clear coat?

Very cool! Would be so great if you photo documented the whole process and posted on the forum. Best of luck with the mod!

Ok so I get to mark two threads as "solved" in one weekend - that'll never happen again! So after installing the PC III and loading the map for Mistral Exhaust / stock air box, AND running through two tankful with Yamalube Engine Med Rx, I have no more pinging! I know I should have been more scientific and tried them separately, but I have no patience. The bike immediately ran better with the PC III, but still pinged a bit at the end of the first tank with the Engine Med Rx. But by mid way through the second tankfull, I couldn't get it to ping no matter how I opened the throttle or at what rpm. So to recap, I'm running Mistral Exhaust with K &N filter on the stock box, Power Commander III with map loaded for the Mistrals (richer map), and now using Engine Med Rx regularly (will probably use every 2nd or third tankfull moving forward), and my Scura has never run smoother or stronger - such a pleasure to ride now! Thank you for all the help!

Will happily be able to hit the "mark solved" button. As a last resort I changed out the gear oil and used the Red Line Heavy Soundproof gear oil. I carefully only filled up to just slightly below the mid level dot in the check window. Went for a 100 mile ride and no leaks! Even when left on its side stand. I noticed that the Red Line product has more "clinging" power than normal gear oil. It didn't seem much thicker, but it clinched to my funnel, even after 5 minutes in vertical position, it didn't drain off the surface. Must be Red Line's secret weapon.

Just checked the website map and not a single ethanol free station in NJ - thanks Gov. Kris Krispy! Hopefully a few tankfuls with Engine Med Rx will do the trick.

Thanks Skeeve for addressing both my questions!

Thanks Emry - I just read that Yamalube Engine Med Rx is the new version of their Ring Free that I used to use on my R6. Great stuff - I just ordered some.

Thanks Tom. I read your Have Another Quart thread. I'll be able to adjust the mixture with the PC III and will experiment with some different fuel maps to make sure its running rich enough. I do believe its currently running a little lean with the extra air flow its now getting.. My Scura has 17,000 miles so i'm hoping carbon build up isn't a problem, but it wouldn't shock me. I'll have a look at the top of the pistons, but i will say the spark plugs looked great when I changed them this spring. I've always wanted to put it on a maintenance schedule of Techron (works great in my cars), but really want confirmation from someone who has done this regularly that it doesn't cause any problems.

Sorry -thumb stumble. Thats 12.4:1(original post corrected). Thanks.

I've read a few past posts on the valve knock issue , but haven't seen any that address why this is a problem with a relatively low compression ratio engine. For example, my 749 has a compression ratio of 11.7:1 and my old 2003 R6 had a compression ratio of 12.4:1, yet neither of those had any valve knock with 93 octane gas. I thought octane rating needed to be higher for higher compression engines to avoid knocking. Obviously there must be additional factors. My Scura has always knocked under heavy acceleration. Last year I found a shop that sold Cam 2 105 octane, and when i add a gallon to my tank get no knocking whatsoever. Recently, i discovered Torco Accelerator and add just 4 oz. To a full tank to eliminate knocking - good stuff, and is NOT an "octane booster", but concentrated race fuel. My recent addition of a K&N filter and Mistral exhaust seems to have made the knocking worse with straight 93 octane (not to mention some new flat spots under acceleration- no surprise), so per suggestions of some posts, ive ordered a PC III and will use the map for Mistral slip-ons to richen the fuel mixture. I've had good success with this on other bikes. 'wondering if this will help the valve knock situation as well?

Sealed up the remaining penetration with Permeate High Temp Copper sealant (I know, quite lovely, but at least non-permanent), let it cure overnight, and went for a 105 mile ride. Seemed dry when I checked it at stop lights, but right after getting back and putting it on the side stand it began to weep oil. Not sure from where this time, but perhaps the perimeter seal. I'm about to throw in the towel. I'd like to first try a thicker oil - if anyone could give a recommendation for a viscosity that's thicker than factory spec but still ok, i'd much appreciate it.

Before I invest in a new one, wanted to see if anyone has one they're no longer using and would sell. Please send me a PM. Thanks.

Went for a nice long ride yesterday - still leaks from the side cover. Guess it wasn't the vent after all. Will remove the starter and do some more sealing...

So I was able to remove the vent from the right side - just needed to fully remove the seat release mechanism and the case bolt with the ground wire. This allowed another 5 degrees of movement with the wrench and made it relatively easy. After a quick clean I blew threw it and no clog. Convinced that there must still be a clog somewhere, I removed the lower horizontal vent and noticed a hole in the tube. I marked the bolt head to correspond with the whole so I could be sure it would align with the hole in the bottom of the vertical vent (see photo). This may not be necessary, but it can't hurt. I then wanted to see what was inside the bore and if there were any clogged holes. The second photo is of a mirror angled into the bore. There appears to be at least one hole further in past the threading, but I couldn't really get to it. I was encouraged that there at least was some gear oil in the bore, so it was at least getting that far. Taking her for a ride tomorrow. Will see if its still leaking from the side case and will let you know.

Ahhh - Approach from the far side! I've been looking for a reason to buy a set of long metric wrenches (only have long SAEs from past TVR and Norton ownership). Thanks for taking the time to help out docc - you're the best. I'm still relatively new to Guzzi ownership, and enjoying every minute thanks to fellow enthusiasts like yourself!

Interesting thought - I don't have any crows feet, but I would be concerned using anything but a socket or box wrench that doesn't get full perimeter bite with this limited access. Ive already slightly slipped a box wrench on it. Dumb question i'm sure - but is the pork chop an integral part of the frame, or just an add-on plate to carry foot controls and pegs? I'm thinking I should remove it for good access to the vent bolt before i damage it any further. Thanks.

Thanks and totally agree. But in this case, its just too tight to fit that little bit of extra thickness my ratcheting box wrench has.

Thanks. Trying to wrench that 17mm bolt without removing the pork chop is "challenging".

Just noticed the photo above got rotated when uploaded. It should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise so the vent is pointing upwards

Could someone kindly confirm that this is the transmission vent? Not easy to get to even with my stubby wrenches. I'm assuming I remove the vertical portion as opposed to what looks like a plug facing rearward. Thanks. Attached photo should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise so vent is pointing up.

Awesome - thanks very much docc! Will report back.