Welshguzzi

Aha! Somebody else with the same question. I eagerly await the replies!

Is the neutral switch easily accessible? Would be good to eliminate that as a trouble spot

Borrowed a meter with a 200 ohm setting - it's telling me 0.8 ohms. I'm going to take the bike for a spin this weekend and see what happens. Any tips to get access to the ignition switch contacts would be helpful Cheers

Right, with the ignition ON, I get zero resistance when I did that test. Good or not so? I managed to release the base of the ignition switch, but it's fairly firmly sealed - I'm a bit wary about trying to prize it apart as I don't want to damage it. When I broke down I tried to start the bike a number of times and turned the ignition on and off quite a lot without any success, so I'm hoping it's probably OK.......

Just tried to get the ignition switch apart - the barrel appears to be fairly secure - I didn't want to force the tabs on the side tto much in case I broke it. I also ran the resistance test you described - either my multimeter isn't sensitive enough or I've done it wrong, as there was not a flicker from the meter when I put it across the relay socket and fuses 5 and 6, tried with fuses both in and out. At the moment, the bike starts every time I hit the button, but a bit nervous about riding it

Ah yes, the ignition switch..... is it easy to dismantle in situ? Not keen on a strip-down of the dashboard

So far, I've checked and cleaned the block connector for the S/S switch - it looked OK but you can never tell.... the bike now starts and runs OK, but it was running last week but then stuck 2 fingers up at me at the weekend, so that may or may not have been the answer. I'll take it for a local run tomorrow and see what happens - I live at the bottom of a hill so I can always coast home..... Intermittent faults - dontcha just love 'em One suggestion has been the butterfly settings in the TB's - any thoughts? It was somebody who had experienced very similar symptoms to mine.

Valves clearances are fine - checked them this week. What confuses me is the intermittent nature of it - if the filter was clogged up, then I would expect it to play up all the time surely? It looks as if it was replaced in 2008 or 2009 as it's date stamped, so it's probably only done 7-8000 miles. It's over a year since I bought the bike from a dealer, so the TPS and TB's may need checking, but it's got to run first!!!

I'm having a recurrent problem with my 2002 Le Mans: Within the last 18 months, I've broken down twice, and just made it home once with some drama with what appears to be the same problem: The bike starts to lose power and I get loads of back fires and ominous popping: so far I've changed the HT leads, plugs, new inlet manifold rubbers. Also, I put on a new reg/rec and charging seems to be OK. I have just checked the low and high tension resistances across the coils, which are 0 ohms and 3.2 kilohms respectively. Would I be right in thinking that the coils are mounted on a floating bracket? There doesn't seem to be an obvious way of bolting it to the frame - there are just 3 rubber mounting lugs which locate against the frame. Or should they be glued on.......? So I'm really stuck - I thought that the rubber manifold was the problem as the left hand one was split about 1/3 of it's circumference next to the clip, but when I started up this morning, it was behaving in the same old way, although during the week it was absolutely fine when i started it in the garage. I'm leaning towards a fuelling problem - I'm going to change the filter, although there are only 15000 miles on the clock, so it should be OK. Beginning to get down-hearted - the weather is great in the UK........

Would I be correct in thinking that's a Cafe Sport? Get out there and enjoy - she's a beauty!

Insurance companies......... £78 without, £225 with - it's just a scam

Mine coughs with the PCIII and it triples the insurance premium. Thinking of taking it off........

I'm going to change mine for something that works - I really struggle with the feeble glimmer that masquerades as a headlight on the Le Mans. Anybody else done this?

I'm not going to say it again.... ( Don't quite know how that happened!)

That little plastic housing is disintegrating on mine. The 3 screws spin round on mine as well - the little nuts don't seem to be held firm and are impossible to undo. I've decided that when I have to get in there it'll be a case of breaking the plastic and ordering a new one. Best left alone for the time being......

That little plastic housing is disintegrating on mine. The 3 screws spin round on mine as well - the little nuts don't seem to be held firm and are impossible to undo. I've decided that when I have to get in there it'll be a case of breaking the plastic and ordering a new one. Best left alone for the time being......

Mention Odyssey over in the UK and you get a flurry of abuse with the ocassional 'well mine's lasted 6 years without a problem'. Motobatt seems to be popular over here.....

Just a quick update - the weather's been atrocious for the last couple of weeks, plus family/ Christmas commitments to be fulfilled, so the bike's been sitting in the garage, sulking. Voltage has dropped to 12.3V so will recharge with my optimate when it arrives and hopefully get out there.........

Yes, it is a Spark. I'll now re-fuel the'battery brand debate'...... What's it to be, ladies and gentlemen?? ;-)

I'd be amazed if it was the original, and I think it's a bit unusual to replace this kind of kit with an OEM unit - generally they're upgraded with a better model. I suspect that the Electrex may be leaking charge slightly as the voltage across the terminals has dropped to 12.5 volts overnight from 12.7. I'll put an in-line 30A fuse as suggested by Andy H

After 2 hours on the charger I now have 12.7V. Will check for any leakage tomorrow. Waterproof fuse holder ordered!

Thanks docc, I've no idea how old the battery is - it's actually a Moto Guzzi one and as the bike is 11 years old, almost certainly not the original. I'll put it on charge and see what happens. Only once has it not started the bike so far so my guess is that it's not completely shot....... but may be the cause of the glitches I've had.

I rechecked the ignition off voltage - actually 12.2V, not sure where I got 11.97....... I'm going to try hooking up the charger tomorrow night as I've been tinkering with the electrics for a few days and the battery may be a bit drained. Thanks for all the help so far

OK, got some more accurate numbers now: Ignition off, engine off 11.97V Ignition on, engine off 12.3V Engine idling (1000rpm) 14.5V Engine idling, lights on 12.6V Engine @ 4000rpm 14.3V Engine @ 4000rpm (lights on) 14.2V So it behaves as expected with the lights on, but not with the lights off. Sadly, my complete lack of knowledge of electronics means that I can't explain this but out there are greater minds than mine and I summon the powers of the forum! BTW the engine is definitely cranking more freely now when I hit the starter button Edit: I guess with these numbers the alternator is probably OK...... or maybe not?

Thanks Andy - I've heard similar.... Any ideas about the wierd 'inverted' output?