nobleswood

I bought a Hyperpro shock from Scud, who is on the forum sometimes, he bought it from the USA dealer in NJ. Haven't had a chance to ride the bike with it installed yet, but I'm sure it will be an improvement

Two electrical issues I had, the first which you don't seem to have but I'll mention in case it comes up, the bike would start with the handlebars turned to the left but not the right. Turned out to be a pair of bullet connectors to the sidestand or neutral switch or something, which when the handlebars were turned to the right pulled on the wiring harness & opened up the connectors enough to stop the bike starting. The next issue, which you might have, is the wiring to the ignition switch is likewise not supported well enough. The connections are soldered & with the flexing of the harness as the front end is turned from side to side, the soldering broke. With the fairing & all this is a bit of a pig to get to. It was a pain with a naked bike. Good luck

I'll take on the job of asking many of the questions about the suspension. Particularly what you are doing with the forks. Looking forward to it

You are comparing apples to oranges, comparing Ohlins to older tech Marzocchi's. Not to divert the thread but I am going down that road. Daviscr5, a beautiful bike ! Congratulations on snagging that one. Post up what you find as you clean it up, we'll all be interested.

True, it's not rocket science but it is knowing where you need to be more precise. Thinking of my fork seal, when I open them up soon I will go over the surface with a glass to see if there is a nick that explains the constant weep. Something I picked up from the 'Ohlins' thread

Worked on the Showa fork seals with the MotionPro 'sealmate'. Once I got the hang of it it worked well. However I couldn't get all the way round the fork leg. Bent over double & with a flashlight could see the seal had torn & folded under the seal lip. Hence the large amount of oil recently. The seal mate surprisingly was strong enough to pull the damaged part of rubber from under the seal. Cleaned up the mess & went for a ride. So far it's working as it should. But knowing that it won't last I've decided to get all the tools needed from Traxxion to replace the seal myself. Can't have too many tools. Thanks for the link to the Ohlins rebuild Chuck, it makes more sense now that I have opened up the Showas's

🤔 The seal-mate looks like it'd be useful to have in the toolbox 👍

Thanks 👍 I remember reading your thread years ago but had never had the occasion to try the technique. There are new seals installed this winter by my new found suspension guy, who was good enough to let me join in and watch over his shoulder. So unless the seal was damaged on installation it has just picked up debris. Mind you I just looked at it & it's leaking alot now. Guess it's my time to learn about seals

Tom, having a similar experience; changed the seals on the Griso's Showa's this winter & after the few trips I've made out this year the RH forks leaking. ☹️ Picked up a 'fork cleaning ' thin piece of plastic & will have a go this afternoon.

I replaced the seal, just waiting on new brake pads to get on the road again & see if it all holds together I'm qualified as a woodworker, still learning as a mechanic

With so many variables I'll just have to run it & see..

I carefully inspected the surfaces prior to installing the new SFK seal, but not to the degree of using a magnifiying lens. I wasn't happy about tapping in the seal with a hammer & block so pressed it in using 2 x 4's & clamps to get it even & not wanting to damage the seal lip. However I am second guessing myself if I used enough oil/ grease on the inner seal when It was installed.

24,000 miles what grit was the wet & dry ?

I was thinking of calling you, that idea of the apprentise only knowing so much... I think it was self inflicted as I hadn't changed the oil in the 3 years I've owned the bike The seal blew but when I inspected the oil it wasn't very dirty, the magnetic tip on the lower plug had some filings but not more than powder. I pulled the seal & cleaned the bearing with q-tips to get an idea of the debris on each ball bearing , but there really wasn't much to write home about.. I talked it over with my mechanic, who I respect, who services my cars & Sprinter van & decided on replacing the $30 seal rather than have the bike out of commission and a $235 bearing replacement. I'm betting on being able to ride the bike through the summer & if the bearing does need to be replaced it will be a winter project.

On my Griso the rear oil seal on the CARC blew which left a tell-tale pattern on the tyre and one side of the rear brake rotor. I have cleaned off the oil with Dawn soap & water until the painted surfaces are squeeky. I have new sintered pads coming tomorrow from AF1 as the old ones were contaminated. My question; should I sand the rotor with say 150 grit paper to ensure I have the oil removed & do I need to prepare or condition the surface for the rotor as I am using, I believe, a different brake pad material than the OEM Brembo pads ?

Hammershaug, Sorry to hear about the passing of your Father, even when expected it only dulls the pain. Condolences.

Good find

Quietly, softly, the recognizable tune of a Funeral dirge can be heard coming from somewhere, difficult to locate, in the workshop....

John, I still think that's a beautiful bike. Tell us about the front brake calipers again. Tim

That's definitely a Docc quote to remember

John !, Good to see you here. Nice pictures of your bikes.

This kind of senseless atrocity leaves me deeply sadded & staring into the bottom of my beer wondering 'Why do they do it ?' My thoughts & prayers are with the Community.

And so it goes..... The timing case is on & parts going back together, then I thinks to myself ' You know, while I'm here I might as well ( insert whichever project you've been meaning to get to ) take apart the drive shaft & clean that up' Well it keeps me social distancing from the family which they appreciate.

Fingers crossed for a steady recovery.

I'm just wondering where the block plane gets used