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Wow, extensive research, love it, and thank you Docc. Just ordered some. And now the GEI relays I bought to upgrade the ones that came on the bike are no longer needed

Ok, so checked my new relays, they are indeed the robust-enough kind. I got them here: http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm Normally Open is rated at 25A @ 14VDC, NC is 20A. Should be good as far as the relay is concerned, but I will still do the Easy Livin' Test. EDIT: will be using the even more robustier Omrons you discovered. Mainly concerned with the charging circuit and the R/R, I have already burned one up, would like to not do that again Hoping Kiwi_Roy can lend some insight there.

THAT WAS IT! Thanks Docc! It also just occurred to me, after posting in another thread about handle bar risers, that maybe I should try using a cable from a California instead of getting custom ones made by Barnett or Motion Pro. Since I'm using the California risers, that cable would probably already be the correct length... EDIT: meh, nevermind. California has an entirely different throttle tube mechanism, would mean changing the whole thing. Probably better to have cables made.

Very curious about this aspect... Can you elaborate? Can drawing too much power on this circuit damage the r/r? Awesome, thank you for this! I will run this test. I have some fresh, new lovely relays, pretty sure they are the "high current" type, but I will check all these things. Thanks guys!

I use the risers from a California 1100, and many other Guzzi which use risers. My top yoke had the holes in it. Seems like some of the V11s had that top yoke, some didn't. Part number is 01.49.31.00, photo below (cropped on the edges of the photo you can just barely make out the riser bolts on the under side of the yoke) Guzzi risers part numbers are here: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/california-vintage-1100-2006-2008/front-fork-en-california-vintage-1100.html

So the headlight circuit is fused with a 15A fuse. The headlights on high beam draw 65 Watts, which at 12 volts is only 5.4A. What if I added more lights to this circuit? Any reason to think that could cause an issue? The relays the headlight power runs through (starter relay and headlight relay) are both rated for much more than 15A..... So, would be crazy to put more load on this circuit? Could doing that impact anything else? Could the Regulator/Rectifier be damaged? Electrical wizards, please weigh in!

Ok, thanks Docc. I could have sworn I remembered a post you made on this topic, and it wasn't even that long ago, replete with photos... Maybe it was all just a dream. I need to have extended throttle cables made because I'm running renthal bars with risers and the stock cable is too short to route properly. Part of figuring how how much longer I'll need is to route the cable the way it should be routed, and then measure how much more I'll need.

I feel like Docc posted a topic about his investigation into the best way to route the throttle cable, but I can't find it in this forum... If that topic is no longer available (some things seem to have gone down the Memory Hole) I would really love a refresher. Thanks!

oh I see now... LOVE the zinc chromate look. I'd keep them all red, but silver and red would look awesome too. Are you keeping the zinc chromate or just using it as a primer?

woohoo!!! those look great! are you painting them or leaving them raw? this plastic takes well to rattle can paint, and only needs a thin layer.

"So, the M-Unit doesn't house this circuit and you would need external 30 amp circuit protection for the charging ("Fuse 3") anyway?" Correct. The R/R line to the battery does not pass through the M-Unit, and still requires a fuse.

The M-Unit doesn't handle charging. It handles power routing and switching, and consolidates the functions of the fuse block and all the relays into one very compact unit. It is solid state, with no fuses or moving switches. It has a lot of really really cool functionality built in (blinking the brake light, auto canceling turn signals, ts can be used as position lights, alarm system...) The only thing stopping me is the fact that our bikes are fuel injected which means loads of sensors etc, and that makes me nervous. I think I've found a solution, but it would still be a lot of work, and being newly married, I don't have the luxury of being able to sit in the garage all night, every night, anymore. I hear that changes over the years, haha Edited to add: you still need to have a fuse for your R/R when using an M-Unit. You get to ditch all the other ones (and relays) though.

I had grand ambitions of rewiring mine with a Motogadget M-unit this winter. Starting to get cold feet though. This and your other mods are good solutions.

Love the idea of a circuit breaker instead of a fuse.

Sorry Chuck, just seeing this now. Address and paypal sent!

Totally understandable. I'd be happy to carry on the efforts, I have access to a CNC machine and and lots of other toys, if you provided me with the CAD drawing I could happily make on myself. And I hereby promise not to take your and Lucky Phil's work and make millions of dollars off of it lol

What are the chances you'd be willing to go for another production run on these? Would love to have one myself!

I love that bike! Definitely keep on him. Too bad the Alutank guy in Germany seems to have gone out of business...

Nice job, but too much work, and too much risk, at least as far as I'm concerned.

Heh, never mind, it's these guys: http://www.rammotor.it What a coincidence!

Question: is this clutch manufactured by the American company by the same name? These guys? -> http://www.ramclutches.com