sp838

The rim finally arrived, got it installed for a dry run just to make sure it would work before mounting a tire on it. Everything worked perfectly, even better than stock because it comes with a captive spacer on tbe drive side, super easy to install. Haven't weighed it yet, but it feels so light, it might even be lighter than the tire itself. Can not wait to ride it. Tire goes on next week asap. Rubber mallet use was mandatory as Docc knows.

I have LED "bulbs" with built in fans and transformer boxes, they fit fine inside 5 3/4" Triumph Speed Triple headlight buckets, so they should fit even finer inside the larger Guzzi buckets. https://cognitomoto.com/collections/electronics/products/h7-led

Must be pretty chilly in Hades right about now. finding myself agreeing with LP...

zombie thread! not sure how or why it has been resurrected, but for anyone wondering, Ghezzi Brian sells a really nice part to replace the stock one, using Rose joints at either end.

What would be -really- cool would be if the fan could be turned on and off by a speed sensor, turning it on say when speed dropped below 15mph or something. But that's beyond my qualifications Simple handle bar switch wired onto switched power would be the easiest...

hahahaha I don't know how dramatic the power output of the motor is now that I've installed the higher compression pistons etc., haven't done a dyno session yet (really should do it soon) but it's presumably gonna be something measurable, so maybe it isn't such a crazy idea... Not a top priority perhaps, but I'm going to investigate further. Earl's performance makes a whole range of oil cooler sizes and shapes, lines and adaptors, and hanging brackets are easy enough to fab up. Thanks everyone!

Thanks for this explanation Marty, makes sense. I guess I was confusing the action of engine oil and the performance of the oil cooler, with that of the liquid coolant of a liquid cooled engine and its radiator. In thinking about it, I also realize that the oil cooler's volume and surface area are probably perfectly calculated in proportion to the volume of engine oil, so changing its size wouldn't be of much if any benefit, unlike bigger water radiators which are better for water cooled bikes. Only benefit might be -faster- cooling down to the 71°C - 90°C temp. range, which could be an improvement for city riding in the summer. Dunno about yours but my V11 hates being in slow traffic.

Jan, why don't you have an oil cooler? Did you remove it? The fan idea is a good one, I have friends who ride enduros who have basically zip tied computer fans to their water radiators, some with a little thermostat, some with a manually operated switch to turn the fan on...

Thinking about it further, a larger cooler wouldn't help with oil capacity since capacity is determined by the volume of the sump... So idea 1 is not valid. Better cooling would still be a good thing to try for, esp. as Jan says with regard to begin stuck in slow traffic.

Theoretically speaking, good idea or not? I was wondering if it would 1) mean you could have a larger oil capacity and 2) larger cooling surface area, 3) and most importantly, get a tricker looking oil cooler (just kidding, purity-trolls. calm down now...) Has anyone here done it? Am I mistaken about the validity of ideas 1 and 2?

Deposit paid, rim on order. If anyone wants one, or a full set, get in touch with Fred Renz at Yoyodyne. Fingers crossed that everything goes through, you never know when ordering stuff from Italy, especially when it's for a bike that hasn't been made for 11 years and had a very small market share to begin with... But for now, it seems like they're still available. If you do end up getting in touch with Fred, tell him Simon sent you

Will do. The chances are slim, and if no longer available, the only option left are the kineo spoked wheels. They're very nice but I personnaly prefer the look of mags on the V11. Fingers crossed.

"Perhaps with a lighter version of the 5.5" rim it would not be as much of a handling detriment." ding ding ding. The Brembo rear wheels are boat anchors. Even with a larger tire the whole thing will be pounds lighter. Pounds. It will be a handling improvement. "New or used? I could not find them at the Marvic site." Looking for new. They recently re-designed their website and the catalog with part numbers don't seem to be available anymore. I've inquired with people here who have contacts with them, so fingers crossed that they are still available.

I am actually looking to fit a Marvic Piuma rear wheel, which comes in 5.5 or 6. 6 sounded way too wide, was hoping it was 5.5 so that I'd know it could fit.

Somewhere I read that the later model V11 got a wider rear wheel than my '01 has (4.5 x 17) Can anyone confirm this? If true, how much wider were they? Were they 5 or 5.5 x 17? Thanks!

That is indeed a GPR. I have one, it is very loud w/o the baffle. Performance will suffer with the baffle. It will improve without it. I had mine tuned on a dyno by a very reputable racebike builder. Net gain was about 3 HP, and the system is pounds lighter than stock, and looks way better. A definite win if you don't care about the noise. And Lucky Phil is a troll who shouldn't be fed.

Which would you recommend? Interested in all options. And less wires on the bike itself is better...

Looking into heated grips, Twisted Throttle has some by Oxford that seem well reviewed... Anyone here have a brand they like?

Thanks Roy. I will not attempt to route it directly, will use switched power through the clutch switch only, to a relay, which will send full juice through to the solenoid.

In your opinion, can the starter, neutral and clutch switches handle this current if I was to rewire the starter button to go through them and to the starter solenoid directly instead of through all the relays?

That sketch is from one of your wiring diagrams So, how does the fuse not blow every time the starter button is pressed, if that circuit is 15A but the solenoid switch is pulling ~50A? Is it really just getting away with it because it happens so quickly?

So you are saying that this line coming from the starter relay jumps to 50A then drops to around 10A when the starter button is pressed?