sp838

How much current does the starter solenoid draw? Not for the actual starter motor, just need to know the current draw for the switch. Thanks!

Nonsense. But, suit yourself I guess.

Phil, ditch that POS and get a lithium ion battery from EarthX.

Amsoil + Red Line

Replacing it with a universal single phase MOSFET unit from Rick's Motorsports.

where did you get the Ti exhaust and ECU kit?

It's the r/r, taking up all of the 22 mA of draw. Tested the diodes and they are passing in both directions. The good news is none of the other circuits are leaking, including the GPS speedo. So: – do I keep it and put it on a relay to keep it from leaking when the bike is off? – Or is it just gonna die anyway, and may as well replace it? This pisses me off, it's not even two years old and I barely put a few hundred miles on it. – If I do replace it, should I give Electrosports another shot? I've heard good things about the products offered by Rick's Motorsports... – If It do replace it, should I wire it up directly again, or should put in on a relay to be safe? I'd honestly rather not add yet another bunch of wires to get it switched on a relay. I'd be fine with just pulling the fuse when I park it without putting it on a battery tender. Decisions decisions.

The wiring to and around the old r/r was a mess from the previous owners, which is why I now vaguely remember going with the direct to battery version, since the wiring for it had already been messed up. Haven't tested it yet, hoping for some time tomorrow morning. If it does turn out to be the culprit, I'll get it to switch on and off using one of the bike's many relays.

Yes, it's the direct to battery version. Haven't had a chance to check yet but right now looking like it could be the main suspect.

Thanks Roy. Actually I now realize that the one circuit I didn't test is the r/r which I updated to a new aftermarket model a couple years ago. Will report back...

Didn't test when powered up, I measured with everything off. I measured 0.022 Amps, not 2.5. The way I measured was by, with the key on OFF, disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and measuring the Amps between the negative battery post and the negative lead. This is when I read the draw of 0.022 A. Then I unplugged stuff one by one to try to see what was causing the draw. The gauge supposedly draws 0.0025 A at all tomes, even when the power is off (to keep the GOS happy), so that leaves ~ 0.0195 A of loss. But as I said above I wasn't able to determine what is drawing those ~0.0195 A. So, wondering if that is actually more or less within spec, or if that is too much "leaking" from somewhere else and needs to be corrected.

Just did a parasitic draw test on my bike, was wondering what is a healthy not too worrisome amount of mA to be leaking? I am leaking ~ 22 mA (0.022 A) Pulling fuses and relays one by one didn't make any change happen to this reading. Haven't tried taking them all out together. Haven't disconnected my GPS speedo which has a constant draw from unswitched power, should be 2.5 mA according to Speedhut, but I haven't tested it... Is this within an acceptable range? Thanks as always!

it's here in the fileshare section: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=870&do=findComment&comment=6983

To clarify, the ones designated as no steel will probably work in steel, but they are much thinner than the ones I specifically designed for steel.

Hi Onibaka, I have them available in plastic as well as steel: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sp838 I have also made the "Gambalunga" style, if you or anyone prefers. I can make them available if interested.

All good points. Main reason is just because there are already so many wires and cables and hoses going all over the place, one less would be one less. I suppose I can remove the cable, leave the lever on bars, and see if I miss it.

All good points. Main reason is just because there are already so many wires and cables and hoses going all over the place, one less would be one less. I suppose I can remove the cable, leave the lever on bars, and see if I miss it.

I am thiiiiiiis close to just taking the sucker off entirely. Any reasons why this is a terrible idea? I am ok with holding the throttle open manually when warming the bike up. And using other methods if necessary when working on it. Kind of thought it make make a semi-decent hack of a cruise conteol lever, only reason why I am hesitating. Otherwise, anyone else done it? Would recommend for or against it?

you could do a combo speedo/tach on one side, and a combo of other instruments (oil pressure, charging system, etc.) on the other if you wanted to get fancy...

Heh, this can be a deep rabbit hole. I ended up doing a complete front end swap because my tach was broken and didn't want to replace it with a stock one. I would follow Kiwi_Roy's theead on using Speedhut gauges as they are a pretty close match dimensionally to the stock units and you can keep the dash. Get the GPS speedo though. It makes for the simplest and cleanest installation. No pickups to glue onto your wheels and fork legs, one easy discreet antenna wire to run back to inside the tail cowl. You get to keep all your idiot lights.

My New Year's Resolution will be to stop taking the tank and seat off so often.

As soon as the temps dip below freezing, it's on.

I'm guessing it's for an entirely different model, and somehow got associated with ours through some clerical error. Is the metal 90° angle tube part supposed to be on the throttle body side, or on the handle bar side?