sp838

Genius! Who did you order that from? I want one too.

I like it! Thanks as always, Kiwi_Roy.

Reviving an old thread, because one aspect of deleting the electric petcock didn't seem to get addressed here: what to do with the wires for the old petcock. Just leave them open? Or should they be spliced together?

I've been alternating between a bottle of Finlaggan and Dalwhinnie.

The really interesting thing about these bikes, to me, is their progression into the 1100 Griso, which had the first iteration of the single sided CARC swingarm. One of my fantasies is somehow figuring out how to graft an early Griso transmission and drive onto my V11. Would be so trick...

They are holding up great. I am not printing these on a consumer filament printer, these are professionally printed by Shapeways. They are made with laser sintered nylon.

Yeah, the openings are a little small for that. I am going to blast the interior as best I can. I'll do the shake-it-with-drywall-screws routine afterwards. That should do it.

Thanks for posting that link Scud. As GuzziMoto says, the key appears to be proper prep of the inside of the tank to help the epoxy adhere. Also, reading that old thread, it sounds like it failed because it wasn't applied evenly. The thicker areas were fine, the thinner areas lifted. I'm wondering now if I should blast the interior, instead of just shaking it around with some drywall screws... Another idea might be to actually cut cross hatch lines into the inner surface with a cutting implement of some sort, though that would be hard to do with the only access being through the filler hole and the hole for the fuel pump and filter. I wonder what other methods to roughen the interior might work?

I am going to be using the tank sealer from Caswell Plating. It has been very favorably recommended and according to my research is the best product out there for this. I have heard only bad things about Kreem. It is basically a two part epoxy, and as docc says, it remains flexible after hardening which is a good thing for us plastic tank people. I will try to document the process when I have some hands free. The basic idea is, remove all the hardware, protect the paint with tape/plastic wrap, rough up and thoroughly clean out the inside of the tank, protect threaded holes, plug everything up, and fill the tank with the epoxy through the filler hole. Plug the filler hole, then rotate the tank to coat the entire interior surface. Drain the excess, make sure any holes that need to be clear a re clear by poking them through, and let it cure. I found a number of good videos on YouTube by searching for "Caswell Plating tank sealer".

That Shindy looks pretty trick though, racing or no racing...

Thanks Ed! I safety wired the air temp sensor to the tab on the frame where the air box used to attach. It seems pretty happy there, not dangling, away from the heat of the cylinders. For anyone interested, I have made them public on Shapeways, the 3D printing service I used to make them. If you or anyone else wants a set, the link is here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/7H6NSY6WT/intake-boots-for-moto-guzzi-v11 I did mine in white because I was going to paint them silver, ended up installing them and riding the bike, didn't want to take it all apart again. If I was to do it over again I'd get them in black...

Cool. Yeah, I was definitely going to do that too. Rough up the inside with screws, rinse with acetone, repeat once, blow out interior with compressed air, let it air dry, then coat.

Finally getting around to installing the later model tank on my '01. I want to line the inside of the tank with epoxy sealant in order to prevent ethanol damage. I was planning on sloshing some acetone around in there, in order to clean it. Just wanted to make sure before I did that, don't want to use acetone on the plastic if there will be a problem. So, acetone + nylon tank, yea or nay? Thanks!

Yes, I much prefer the slow bleeding to the sudden disemboweling.

Haha, JRD, I know it all too well... The sound of money flying out of my pockets.

Carbon fiber one is very nice, I have one as well. Got it from Harper's, was not expensive but took a little while to arrive.

Here we go, was moved to Frequently Asked Questions section apparently: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18597 Again, our paints are Akzo Nobel Lesonal, and they are not single stage which means there is a base color, the color itself and a clear. This makes it hard to mix up single stage paint for touch up, but if you really want the right one, you'll need to find a bodyshop that shoots that paint if you want an exact match. Probably not worth the effort for touch up. I'd go to a drug store with your side cover and find the closest matching silver nail polish. You can see the color of the polish through the bottle. Touch up paint at an auto store never matches the color on the cap.

I posted the paint codes here a couple years ago, they seem to have disappeared... If you have a bodyshop that uses Akzo Nobel Lesonal paint (go to a Mercedes Benz specialist), they can look them up for you. They are the only ones who have Moto Guzzi paint color codes.

Another advantage with the GSXR front end is that it is significantly lighter than the Marzocchi. The stock Brembo wheels on our V11's are boat anchors, the fork legs themselves also are very heavy. You will save a good amount of weight. The GSXR forks are also ~12mm shorter which makes for faster, almost "flickable" steering which remains stable at speed. Going down the straight at NJMP at 108mph with no steering stabilizer was perfectly smooth, and braking into turn 1 had more power than I needed to slow the bike down into the turn. I kept the stock Brembo mc, works just fine with the Tokico pots. Which leads to a third advantage: there are so many parts available for Suzuki, it means servicing, and eventually down the line upgrading (such as the radial mc, caliper options, fancy rotors, fork cartridges, springs, wheels, etc etc.), is much easier, with more plentiful options to choose from. It's sick how much aftermarket support and documentation there is for the GSXR, esp. compared to our Guzzis. Worth every penny and minute of work, imho.

Another reason to like the Avons is they actually tested them on a V11 and will give you a warranty on them as a result.

Walterg, I am almost done rebuilding my bike. When I fire her up I will shoot some video and post it, hopefully that can give you an idea of what the GPR sounds like. It is deep, rich and loud. Performance wise, no complaints at all, and it weighs significantly less than stock. Looks wise, can't be beat: it reveals the entire drive side, which I think looks much nicer without a muffler blocking the view. I am very happy with it.

Granted, I changed too many things at a time to say conclusively, but I feel like my bike handles better with the stock 170 section rear tire. PO had Conti Road Attack tires, I put on Avon Storm 2, and I love them. Tire sizes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. So if one tire has more of a peak to it, another might have a more even round section. The Avons have no peak.

I use this. plus some moly. I know the moly is only spec. for the bevelbox, but I figure it can only help in the trans., as well.

I just ordered a couple of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018JUMF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a second my heart skipped a beat, thinking there might have been an oem Guzzi tank made of cf. One can only dream!