sp838

10 Nm total with a little blue loctite is all you need, tighten them in progressive amounts equally in a more or less star pattern across the cover.

There is a little gasket between the switch and the case where it screws in. Are there any additional washers or spacers in there too? If so, maybe remove them?

Maybe it's just this "mini heatwave" we are experiencing right now, but I am actually looking forward to this winter when I'll finally be tearing out the wiring harness and installing the m-unit and forever saying goodbye, or rather auf wiedersehen, to all the relays and fuses...

This is something I'm very interested in. I have twin plugged heads on my bike, but haven't set it up yet. Biggest hurdle for me going forward with this is the prospect of having to change the ignition curve. I'm dreading having to manually edit the map. I have a table that was provided to me by a gentleman on this forum who went by the name "Motoguzznix". I will delve into this over the winter. If all else fails, I'll ditch the 15M ECU (which I consider to be the boil on Sophia Lauren's ass) and install a set Keihin flat slides and an ignition module from Eletronik-Sachse and be free of the whole mess that is this Magneti Marelli injection system.

The PC5 with autotune isn't compatible with our TPS. Some claim to have made it work but it is not officially supported by Dynojet. I called them and tried to get them to explain how it could be done and they refused to discuss it. That said, the tuner I used for the V11, Mark Rozema at Markbilt Racing who builds AMA race bikes, despises autotune. His feeling is you tune the bike and develop the best map possible for it and then leave it alone, that autotune just ends up deteriorating the map and running "like crap". But he is coming from a racing perspective so maybe too rigid a philosophy for street bikes, but I can't argue with the quality of the job he did on my bike. Steve Saucier at European Cycle Services (now Hudson Valley Motors) did the tune on my Daytona using TuneECU and TuneBoy. And I don't see any hairs there, do you ?

I think of it more like mole on Cindy Crawford's face... uh, what deteimental effects??? my bike runs like a beast.

Because the Power Commander can be edited in real time while the bike is running on a dyno is why. Editing the map directly on the Guzzi ECU is a slow and tedious process, and no professional performance tuners, at least here in the US, want to mess around with Guzzidiag. Dynojet makes industry standard equipement used by professional (or at least as close to professional as we have here) racers. So you can poo poo it all you want, but it's the best solution for getting a custom map and professional tune for the bike especially if it has been modified. If we had a more modern and open ECU like one in my Daytona 675, then the PC wouldn't be necessary. My tuner was able to develop a map for my track bike directly on the ECU for it, but will not bother with the Guzzi ECU. And he is a Guzzi and Ducati specialist.

Actually, the rifling of the bores has at least one demonstrable benefit, which is that it reduces the amount of material used, so makes the parts cheaper to print (one of the metrics used to determine part cost is how much raw material is used). I've always been curious to make a smooth bore version and compare performance but that would be a big waste of time and money.

Have you ever had a part of the size and complexity of those intakes quoted for CNC machining? Or any other manufacturing process? Yeah, good luck, get back to me on that. If it was even possible to make them on the latest greatest 5 axis CNC machine, and get someone to agree to make it for you, you'd have to sell a kidney to afford it. Have you ever bought CNC machined velocity stacks for any other performance bike? I have. I got a set of aluminum stacks for my Daytona 675. Very simple geometry, made on a lathe, not a mill. They cost well north of $300. Given the fact that these are designed to match the rubber intakes on our throttle bodies on one end, and to perfectly mate with the inside of the air filter ensuring no air leaks and a tight secure fit, and can be made on demand with no setup costs or special tooling, yes, this is quite "affordable". That doesn't necessarily mean everyone can justify buying them, and no one is putting a gun to your head and forcing you to. In fact I find it quite hilarious that you're moaning about their cost when you're going on at every opportunity about the upgrades you're allegedly going to perform on your bike, such as a hand made multi hundred dollar oil pump that has no demonstrable benefit over the stock equipment. You want to run a different setup, that's fine. But to complain about the cost of these parts demonstrates some ignorance about the cost of making custom parts and the unique benefits of 3D printing in general. Good luck securing those filters though! Especially that top one, looks like it will come flying off at the first turn you take over 40 mph.

I really love your 30 amp circuit breaker solution. When I re-wire the bike this winter with an m-unit, I will totally steal this idea for the one and only fuse that will still be needed for the charging circuit.

someone must have deleted it

I truly admire and appreciate your dedication to maintaining your bike and the knowledge you share so clearly with our little community.

and extra timing chains for the bedroom

One of the things that I used to find annoying on my cb350 is the crossover tube linking both sides of the tank. It would make it really messy to remove the tank without spilling gas everywhere. Until I discovered Goodridge makes really nice stainless steel quick disconnects for fuel lines. Now thinking the v11 tank would really benefit from a crossover line in the same place... 🤷‍♂️

How about on the later model tanks with internal pumps on the right side? That's what I'm running on mine. I ran it out of gas once, luckily only about thirty yards from a gas station.

I wish this was a component that could be upgraded... Which actually reminds me, been meaning to ask: how much available fuel is theoretically left in the tank when the light goes on?

I think I might just keep an eye on it and wait until the off season.

Hah! So this is a common thing then. That's a bit of a relief. I like the idea of gluing a dime over it, very retro lol

So, lately while riding my neutral light has been blinking out, flickering, displaying weakly, then coming back full brightness, then going out again, without any apparent reason. Wiggling the gear lever sometimes brings it back, sometimes doesn't. Then it comes back again on its own. This is annoying, but I have a good feel for the bike's shifting so not really a big deal, I can find neutral without it. Figured I'd eventually get in there and figure it out when I had a moment. Today I thought I'd take a look down there, not to take anything apart but just take a peek to see if there was anything visibly wrong, like the connector being loose. Lo and behold, there is a good amount of oil weeping out of the hole right above it, where it seems like one of the selector wheels is housed on the other side. Didn't have time to do anything about it, just snapped a photo and muttered some curses. Anyone else had this problem? Any ideas what it might be? Mine is an early 01 model. I redid the selector assembly with the updated spring first thing when I bought the bike about six years ago...

I've been teying to determine why the Caruso oil pump is worthwhile, all I get is some judgemental pablum about "quality". Why don't -you- tell me why, again other than the fact that it look nice. Docc's bike has over 100k miles on his. So again, what is the benefit of this pump?

Heh, funny, I remember a few years ago you were giving me shit for using Ti fasteners, saying I was wasting my money. Good times!