sp838

docc, the front rotors are floating type, they have an alloy center carrier. The rear rotor is fixed type, it is made from a solid slab of stainless steel. So while the rear rotor has a smaller diameter, it being made of solid steel means that it is likely just as heavy, if not maybe even heavier than the front. Guesstimating "it's smaller therefore must weigh less" doesn't work, because the two rotors not really comparable by virtue of how they are made. I'll weigh the rear rotor. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong. No skin off anyone's back. At worst I'll have a slightly lighter, way cooler looking rotor. I can think of worse things.

First look at the contact between the pad and the stock disc looks like it is inset a little bit with regard to the outer edge, so a 3mm difference might not be a big deal... I'll know for sure either way once I get the disc. If it doesn't work, I'll just return it. And yes, the Galfer disc weighs only 2.15 pounds, it has very little material compared to the stock unit. The EBC disc is an exact match for the outer diameter of the Brembo stock one. I'll use that one if the Galfer one doesn't work out. It is a little bit more substantial than the Galfer disc, but it too weighs less than the Brembo one, at 3 pounds. Tom, I really do appreciate your concern for my finances and for my general health, but I'm not asking you for permission on how to spend my money or how to customize my bike. Also, buying titanium hardware doesn't preclude ALSO buying a new rear shock. I intend to do both (and more), thanks. When I'm done my bike will no longer be 500+ pounds, though it sounds like yours still will.

lol LuckyPhil. Don't you worry your pretty little head over me! I have the rear shock on my to-do list. I will also be adding bracing to the swingarm, replacing its bearings, replacing wheel bearing with ceramic ones, milling out the porckchops, and hopefully swapping the cardan shaft for a billet one if they ever are available again. Replacing all hardware possible with titanium. Every little bit counts. Especially on things that rotate under power or are unsprung. The Galfer rear rotor weighs 2.15 pounds. Titanium hardware weighs half of what regular steel weighs. I haven't weighed it yet (I will though) but I'm willing to bet that the Brembo rear rotor weighs over four pounds. Losing 2 pounds of rotating mass is not totally insignificant. And doing all the little insignificant things eventually adds up to something meaningful. Plus it's fun. Improving things is never a bad idea. This is my hobby, I thoroughly enjoy it. That said, I will draw the line at certain things, don't think I'll be installing Alpina wheels anytime soon... Unless I hit the lotto, then it's on. $165 for new and better brake rotor is not going to kill me. tikkanen, I saw your brake rotors in another thread, and I am very very impressed. I just swapped my front end so will be directing my attention elsewhere for now, but those rotors are definitely going to happen sometime in the not so distant future... Maybe next winter.

docc, I have the Tokico master that goes with the calipers. I looked into the piston diameters, and the brembo one that we have stock is very close. And the pistons in the Tokico calipers are actually a little smaller. So I'm going to try keeping the Brembo master for now, just because it works better with my kill switch and throttle setup. If it doesn't work, I'll use the Tokico master and then figure how to make it play nice with the neighbors.

Every little bit helps ! Definitely will post pics if/when I do it. Also looking into replacing all the big chunky bolts with titanium hardware.

Nice gauge, I got the same one! How are you liking it? Kiwi_Roy actually explained to me how to use an LED instead of the stock bulb. He said to wire the original bulb in line with the LED. He can explain it much better than I can... Paging Dr. Roy!

Thanks GuzziMoto. It should work out very well indeed. I followed your advice and put the 3mm shim underneath the bottom bearing and dust seal, it all lines up perfectly. I had Stig replace the internals with Ohlins 30mm NIX road and track cartridges, and new heavier springs. The Tokico 4 pot radial calipers should be a significant upgrade as well. Mounted the front rotors with titanium hardware. I cut off the damper mounting tab. Just need to figure out the steering stops. Lots of little details to sort out, like a longer clutch line. Starting to get a little anxious about the approaching good weather, I might miss a couple weeks early on but it will all be worth it in the end.

So, here is what I've found so far. EBC makes a direct bolt on rear rotor, model number is MD692C. I just spoke with the their sales rep, he laughed when he looked it up. Said they have never sold a single one of these in the US. Galfer makes a rotor that would work: the DF005W, although it has a 6mm smaller diameter. Haven't examined the contact between the pad and disc yet to see if losing 3mm of contact would be a very big deal, I'm guessing that it really wouldn't be that bad. Both would offer significant weight reduction compared to the stock Brembo disc, which translates into a huge rotational mass savings, as well as less unsprung weight. I'm definitely going to be doing this. Not sure yet which one, leaning towards the EBC one because it has the correct outside diameter.

Curious to know about replacing the chunky, clunky rear brake rotor with some more svelte. Has anyone done this? Is the hole pattern on our rotor more or less standard? I haven't started researching this yet, but figured I'd start here. If anyone has any insights, please share!

Check these guys out, they have pretty much everything: http://www.anplumbing.com/ I am going to use them to make a new clutch hose, and I think I will also replace my fuel lines too, with quick disconnect couplings to make things easier.

So I think once I measure the fitting I'm gonna go with a metric to AN adapter, some AN braided hose, then an AN to metric banjo. These guys seem to have it all under one roof: http://www.anplumbing.com/Adapters/Metric-25.html

I actually already have a speed bleeder for this very purpose, bought it back when I got the bike, have been saving it until I was going to bleed the clutch. Which is as soon as I replace this line.

heh, will do. I need a slightly longer line because of my handle bars. I'd like to put a banjo bolt in there instead of a fitted line. it's probably a standard m10x1, was hoping to have the replacement ready before taking the original line out. oh well...

*crickets* I guess I'll just remove it and measure them. I need to bleed the clutch anyway.

Anyone know offhand what the diameter and thread pitch is on the fitting at the end of the clutch hose, that screws into the Grimeca hydraulic clutch?

Thank you GuzziMoto for all your help!

SUCCESS! Can't post pics, here is an instagram link: http://instagram.com/p/lBGxsiKdbh/ will post more later.

had the alternator cover painted red, while I was at it...

My VIN ends with113455... Originally the bike had clip ons, before the mysterious event that required rebuilding the front end, at which point the PO went with the risers and a Renthal bar.

Interesting, did this come stock on the early v11's? When you search for the part number GU01493100, it comes up as Sport 1100 IE. It is listed in the parts catalog for the 96-99 sport 1100: http://www.motorky-skutre.sk/PDF/PRILOHY/motorky/moto_guzzi/1100_sport/Sport_1100_1996-1999.pdf -- page 27/77 as well as for the 97-98 Daytona RS: http://www.motorky-skutre.sk/PDF/PRILOHY/motorky/moto_guzzi/daytona/Daytona_RS_1000_1997-1998.pdf -- page 22/81 Haven't seen it in any documentation for the v11... I know that my bike's previous owner replaced the front end after the bike was "knocked over by a car while parked" (or a crash, who really knows) so I don't know if these are the clamps that came with the bike...

Hey Docc, don't know if you saw this already in the front end swap thread, but I now have more info on my top clamp, and will have more on the bottom clamp soon. It turns out that my bike has been even more molested than I previously thought. I knew the front end had been rebuilt by the PO, what I didn't know is that he used the triple clamps off a Sport 1100IE. That would explain why my offset is different from what is in the manual for the v11, and why I have real holes for the handle bar risers as opposed to drilled holes:

meanwhile, my machinist friend and motorcycle Guru has prepped the lower GSXR clamp (removed the GSXR steering stops, drilled and tapped holes to make new steering stops, removed the steering damper mount and all the casting flashings), and made some spacers in case we need them:

Gods willing, the front end swap is happening this Saturday! *knocking on wood, fingers crossed* Removed all the crap off the front end (headlight, gauges, ignition switch, brake lines) and the master cylinder off the handle bars. Got the top clamp off and back on, just for practice, and also because tomorrow I will grind off the tabs for the steering lock as well as all the rust, and will patch paint everything that needs it, provided my paint guy finally mixes me up the color. Docc, the part number for my top triple clamp is 01.49.31.00, as shown in the last pic below. Apparently it's from a Sport 1100IE. Saturday is the big day. I will post a recap of my successes and failures, hopefully more of the former than the latter. Here are some high res pics:

Does anyone know what the size is for the four pinch bolts on the drive shaft? LowRyter, when you get your part, would you mind posting the measurements? Or Baldini? Thanks! EDIT: nevermind, found it. They are M8 x 30