sp838

Hmmm, looking at parts fiches for the MGS-01 and comparing to the V11, they appear to have the same oil pump and the same relief valve: MGS-01 https://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st3/GU076.pdf V11 https://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st3/GU016.pdf Higher oil pressure has been touted as one of the benefits of upgrading to the Caruso oil pump. MartyNZ countered that higher oil pressure would just result in the relief valve dumping the oil in the sump. Thereby negating the alleged benefit of higher oil pressure from the pump.

So now the question begs.... can the relief valve from the MGS-01 be fitted to the V11 (assuming it would be designed to work with higher oil pressures from a higher capacity pump) ?

This (among other things you wrote) is a very good insight. Thanks for posting.

Yes, you did, thank you. I was addressing your unsolicited pontification on the topic of Quality.

lol, looks like someone has been reading Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, perhaps taking it a little too closely to heart. As I said up thread, I understand the value of better engineered parts. There is such thing as "gilding the lily" though. Quality for quality's sake is nice, but personally I'm more pragmatic than that. I want performance or longevity improvements for my money. I'ld happily plunk down the cash for an oil pump hand whittled by Leonardo Da Vinci, raised from the the dead, crafted lovingly from a solid block of platinum, but only if there was an actual measurable benefit for it. But if the stock Guzzi pump does the same job, despite being uglier or less refined, then it's staying. I'll spend my money on something else. Like a nice paint job.

you should totally do that

I'm still unclear as to what this pump does differently or better than the stock one. I have a set of the Caruso wheels, am planning on doing the swap at the end of the season. I understand the value of better engineered stuff, but "better engineered" has by definition a set of criteria and metrics by which you can say it is better. So other than the craftsmanship that went into making it, what does this pump do better than the stock one? Is it longer lasting before it wears out? Does it pump more oil? The difference in idler gear, for instance, what is the benefit of that?

What's the sales pitch on the CNC oil pump?

I can't wait to hear that whirring sound

OEM Part Name: Oil Pump Roller Bearing 10x22x20 Moto Guzzi Part Number: GU 92252210 Replacement Part Brand or Source: VXB.com Ball Bearings Part number or other identifier: TAFI102220 Differences from OEM (if any): unknown Website link for source: Vxb.com | https://www.vxb.com/TAFI-102220-Needle-Roller-Bearing-10X22X20-p/TAFI102220.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9JzoBRDjARIsAGcdIDUslO9SQER-yicoUNRjbgM-2KopqbeCA3flFYA_HUbx1zJ2tHouzTIaAiBVEALw_wcB I just ordered one on Amazon for $20 delivered. Harper's has them for $42, MG Cycle doesn't have them at all. So I thought it might be helpful to post an alternative. Crusty looking photo is the oem part from Harper's: This photo is from the the VXB website:

hey Lucky Phil, do you remember offhand what size nut is used on the end of the oil pump drive shaft? The parts catalog I have doesn't specify, just says "nut". Part number is GU92602308. Grazie! EDIT: judging by the size of the lockwasher behind it (part 6) I'm guessing the nut is M8... Sound right?

So is there a gallery inside the bottom of sump pan? how does it run back up to the oil pump?

Does it actually do anything? I have the correct porthole tool to access the oil filter so It's been a while since dropped the sump. Looking at exploded diagrams, what exactly is it screening? That little nub it's screwed to, does that lead somewhere? Is that the intake for the oil pump or something? Please pardon my ignorance...

If I remember correctly it came in around $1800 for the Ohlins install, not counting shipping UPS back and forth. I also had him spruce up a set of vintage 70s Ceriani forks for my cb350.

Not sure how well this would match the texture on your black fuzzy engine, but I really love this stuff: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Professional-Grade-Rubberized-Undercoating/?N=5002385+3292638249&rt=rud I used it to re-paint the aluminum lid on one of my Rizoma brake fluid tanks. So far it's held up really well (~3 years 🤔) resisting corrosion from brake fluid and general wear. For spot touchups would probably work really well... The texture comes out looking sort of like leather grain, like on cameras and professional electronics from the 80s. Sort of like this, but a little more subtle:

lol ok... keep the shiny side up, bruv.

When you say "98 EV" are you talking about a California? Those have two CDI boxes. One mounted on the side, one by the battery. You can see them here: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-lookup/1990-1999-moto-guzzis/california-ev-v11-ev-usa-1100-1997-2001.html The V11 Lemans don't use these.

Stig did the Ohlins NIX cartridges in my V11, thank to your recommendation. At that point he had "retired" and was running his own business out of his garage. Got me a great deal on the cartridges and did the installation. Great guy, soft spoken, knows his stuff.

Looking at the wiring diagram, pretty sure the ECU doesn't get any data from the clutch switch, so pulling in the clutch shouldn't affect the ECU's behavior as a result of that action. It has no way of knowing you're doing it. I'd wager it's as GuzziMoto says, removing the load is allowing the engine to rev up. Did you get a chance to see if the throttle body linkage is catching or has the potential to catch on anything?

PM sent

Fixed all the things I broke last weekend lol