sp838

Dunno if the OP is still looking, but the Rossopuro site has them available, in polished silver (red is out of stock) http://www.rossopuroitalia.it/index.asp?Prd_ID=8&Prd_PrdType_ID=5 Looks pretty sexy. Filippo Barbacane (info@rossopuroitalia.it) is aware of the problems on the site and is working on getting them fixed. In the meantime he can be contacted directly at the above address.

Just torqued down my heads and adjusted the valves. In the process discovered that the column nuts (part #13021900) are really nasty with rust. I cleaned them up, and it's all buttoned up now, but the next time I adjust the valves I would like to replace them. Does anyone know if these can be found in stainless? The other two nuts in the cylinder head at six o'clock which are exposed (not the four which are inside the cover under the rocker arms) are also pretty nasty, would like to replace them too. They seem to be standard hardware, probably easier to locate in ss. But those column nuts seem like they would be a bit trickier to find...

I have silver rizoma tanks: http://www.rizoma.com/universal/fluid-tanks/ I have the "Next" oval shaped one with the big window on a black bracket for the front brakes, and the small round one with the little porthole for the clutch. Very easy to set up, looks way better than the stock tupperware.

http://www.tlm.nl/webshop/nl/accessoires-tuning/framedelen/middenbokkit-v11sport-1e-serie-tot-2000-014300000012-moto-guzzi

From Michael Rich at Mike Rich Motorsports: "Typically shimming the rocker arms is done by custom making bronze spacers to fit--you must have .004" side clearance to allow for oil to escape and the growth of the spacer--use 630 bronze--Be sure the ends of your rocker arms a smooth." And from Charley at Zydeco Racing: "I'm not sure how much play would be removed by replacing the springs with solid spacers. I ran solid spacers on my race bike, but that was more to help with oil pressure. If you do go to solid spacers, they need .004" clearance between the rocker stand and the rocker arm.....measured at either end of the spacer. Be sure that both ends of the rocker arm are square and machined smooth, as well as the area on the rocker stands where the spacers will contact them. If they need to be cleaned up or machined, do this before measuring for your spacer which must be .004" shorter than that distance. If the oil has no where to go, very little will ever reach the rockers. If you have a lot of side to side movement, you probably need new rocker arm bushings and spindles. Also, if you have sacked springs, worn copper thrust washers (that are pushed on by the springs) and worn bushings and spindles, you can bleed off excessive amounts of oil, which will lower your overall oil pressure. If you ever change the small bolts which attach the spindles to the rocker stands, make sure they are no longer than the stock bolts or they will block off the oil coming up through the stand, which then is directed down through the center of the spindles and lubricates the rocker arms. Make sure that the rocker stands have not warped and the bosses in the heads where the rockers mount are still flat and square. Since there is no gasket there, you can bleed off a lot of oil pressure, if things don't mate well." Not a quickie job, but good to know how to do it if the interest ever arises. I plan on taking my bike to the track next season, so it's not out of the realm of possibility.

Thanks luhbo. I am looking in the BMW forums now for more information about how they go about it. I will also look through Guzziology to see if there's any mention there. gstallons - you're not being very helpful these days...

Thanks for the heads-up, AndyH. I do think I'm going to get a PCIII eventually anyway. Gonna start with the x-over, and go step by step from there. When you used the lambda sensors in the headers to tune the bike, was this all being done on a dyno? Or just with the back wheel up in the air? Where are the sensors inserted? My bike doesn't have the header crosspipe. It does have some cap bolts though, towards the middle of the header down pipes, right before the connection with the x-over. Are those holes meant for inserting the lambda sensors for tuning? This leads to another question: would there be any benefit in using the later headers with the crosspipe (2002 - ) on the 2001 v11?

I am going to be torquing the head bolts, checking/adjusting valve lash, replacing rocker cover gaskets next week. I've found couple great threads here in the forum, as well as nice step by step here: http://www.geocities.ws/motoguzzi1064/GuzziFiles/V11ValvesTorque.htm What I haven't found is any mention of replacing the rocker arm springs (part number 94 32 22 15 - http://www.gutsibits.co.uk/prod_img/lrg/IMG_1634.jpg) with shims, in order to all but eliminate side to side play in the rocker arms. This is standard practice in BMW airheads, I was wondering if anyone here had any experience with this.

Yes, please! Also some more detailed instructions, the manual has a diagram barely larger than the size of a postage stamp with nothing in the way of explanation.

Huh, is that really the case? Not that I'm doubting you, specifically, but I wonder what others might think about that... The crossover is first on my list then. I'm torn between the Mistral reverse cones and those MIVVs. I really like how small they are. Never been a huge fan of carbon fiber, from an aesthetic standpoint. Functionally it may be great at reducing weight, I just prefer the look of metal. Would love to hear what everyone else thinks re: performance benefits/demerits of aftermarket mufflers.

This is very nice to know! I guess there's nothing holding me back now. Is it safe to say that all mufflers will work more or less the same with the Mistral crossover? I was under the impression that different mufflers had different performance implications. Is it really all about the crossover? The impression I'm getting is that mufflers just offer different degrees of sound dampening, and consequently come in at different weights, based on the amount of internal baffles and materials used (cf vs. ss vs. ti. vs al etc.) Am I mistaken? I thought the muffler also affected back pressure and the overall breathing of the engine, hence performance... Also nice to know I don't need a PC, at least not initially. Thanks again, you guys are awesome.

Thanks guys! That thread is very helpful. Sounds like the Mistral is the way to go for me, I do a lot of city riding, and when on the highway I need to be able to deal with accelerating in traffic, i.e. lots of downshifting and digging into the lower rpm. I assume the fueling remapping will be necessary with a power commander, and well documented for the Mistral products.

Part of my to-do list for this winter is upgrading the exhaust on my '01 v11 sport. I'm curious to know what people think is the best complete exhaust system for the bike. I did look at the article in the FAQ, unfortunately it's just a list of manufacturers and many of the links are now dead, including the most important one which was a comparison of the Mistral and Stucchi crossovers. Some of the manufacturers listed don't seem to offer products for Guzzi anymore, such as BOS who don't have Guzzi listed as an option in their products lineup page. I'm interested in both reducing weight and increasing the performance of the engine. Also a consideration is a system that I can "grow into", meaning, one that would still be appropriate should I ever decide to undertake any engine performance mods. I really like the look of the Mistral reverse cone mufflers. However I was told by someone that the build quality of the Mistral product isn't that great. Is this true or is it b.s.? Bruno from Ghezzi-Brian recommended a stainless and titanium or carbon fiber system by Mass Moto. Guzzi Tech has a set of mufflers which are made to order. I've also come across a couple other manufacturers in my searching... So in short, there are quite a few options out there to choose from, and I'm hoping that the community here can help guide me towards the best choice in terms of performance, weight reduction, and least important but still a consideration, styling. Thanks!

hah!

Guzzi Tech sells a filter imported from Italy: http://guzzitech.com/store/product/355-bmc-filters/category_pathway-39

new topic here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18258

EDITED on 04/28/2017 –– The links below are no longer valid. The paint codes still look correct, but now in order to access the color catalogs, you must follow this link: https://www.mixitcloud.com/#/setup You will be prompted to enter your location info and most importantly, your "business type" -- you will want to select "Vehicle Refinishes" and "owner type" which should be set to "Automotive" On the next screen you will want to select the check box for "Lesonal" (I've tried searching with all the products selected, it still only returns the same number of codes for Guzzi, which is 47 total colors) Then select "Color" (almost there...) Then select "Basecoat SB MM" You will then be on the search page where you can pick your make, which is of course Moto Guzzi. Enter that into the search field, and hit enter, and veeeollah! Color codes descriptions and swatches. I'm trying to figure out what "Champagne" is... So here we go, this is the motherlode: http://www.qnetonline.nl/LESEW/ColorListings/Manufacturer?TypeOfUnit=1&Amount=1.00&AmountDouble=1&Presentation=Cum&ProductNr=17&Manufacturer=Moto%20Guzzi%20motor&YearUsed=2001&HasCombinations=False&HasVariations=False&SearchMethod=ByManufacturer These are the "greys": http://www.qnetonline.nl/LESEW/ColorListings/Manufacturer?TypeOfUnit=1&Amount=1.00&AmountDouble=1&Presentation=Cum&ProductNr=17&ColorGroup=5&Manufacturer=Moto%20Guzzi%20motor&YearUsed=2001&HasCombinations=False&HasVariations=False&SearchMethod=ByManufacturer These are the colors in the "grey" group, which includes the dark metallic (MOT9035) and the silver on the v11. We are still narrowing it down but we think it's the MOT9029. It might be the MOT9037, which has a little yellow and little binder in it. He hasn't had time to mix up a sample for that yet. My money is on the 9029 which is basically all metallic with a little black and a little white. These are the reds: http://www.qnetonline.nl/LESEW/ColorListings/Manufacturer?TypeOfUnit=1&Amount=1.00&AmountDouble=1&Presentation=Cum&ProductNr=17&ColorGroup=0&Manufacturer=Moto%20Guzzi%20motor&YearUsed=2001&HasCombinations=False&HasVariations=False&SearchMethod=ByManufacturer He thinks it's either the MOT3001 or the MOT3000, since these are the only solid colors in this list. The other colors all have either an M or a P in the code, which denote metallic or pearl compnents. Our red looks like a solid color. He said to hold a flashlight up to the paint to see if there's any particulate in it, which if there would mean it could be the others. We haven't investigated the reds yet. He is going to paint my wheel first, then I'll bring my bike over and we'll move on to matching that. I wish there was something on the bike painted red that I remove and bring to him, but I think I need all of those frame parts

My paint guy says he has a match. I will be seeing him tomorrow, at which point I'll get the brand, color name and formula from him. I'll work on getting the red next, he has a whole long list of MG color codes.

wd-40 works just as well as cooking spray.

The K&N CG-9002 filter drops right in and fits very snugly and happily in the air box. Removing the tank is the easy part. It's getting it back on that can be a bit of a pain. Once you do it a couple times though it's no longer a big deal. Just keep an empty bottle handy for when you disconnect the fuel lines from the petcock and the vacuum pressure valve as you will get peed on a little. And have a couple pieces of two by four handy to rest the tank on so that it is not sitting on the above mentioned petcock and vacuum valve when you put it down. The two electrical connectors are super easy to disconnect/reconnect. Really not as scary as it sounds, and you'll have to learn how eventually if you plan on servicing the bike, doing electrical work, etc.

http://www.harpermoto.com/14-antivibration-bush-m4x7-9x12-7.html

If you don't mind ordering from the US, Harper's Moto has pretty much everything.

Hey @GuzziMoto, another question came to mind: what did you do about the steering damper? Doesn't look to me like the Guzzi one will work with the GSXR front end, and vice versa.

Screw it. Bringing my side cover in to the body shop tomorrow and having them color match it. If anyone is interested I will ask for the formula and/or off the shelf color code that best matches and post it back here.

So, brought the wheel and bike by the body shop today. He tried to look up the codes, for which he had about six different silver / grey returns. He says he'll mix up samples for each and we will match that way. I didn't have time to hang around, so I will keep trying to find the actual code. Of course, there is no listing under the seat pan or in the seat well. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be a sticker under the seat listing the paint codes? Or does Guzzi just not deem this necessary? The RS Bike Paint site doesn't seem to be of much help for the silver, but they do have a couple reds which they call Rosso Mandello and Candy Apple. Also not very helpful. Just found this: http://www.cyclecolor.com/id27.htm and this: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/print/moto_guzzi_loopframe_body_paint_codes.htm I wonder how close that v700 silver is to ours.... Gonna keep searching...