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Well, in the meantime I found both of these items, and both WILL fit on the v11: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-rotor.htm http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-stator.htm I must have annoyed the guy at Euromoto Electrics because he's not replying to my email. The last time he replied he told me they wouldn't produce more current. Mystery as to why until he does reply, they are rated at 450 watts, and our stock generator is 350....

I do have led turnsignals up front and that all in one fender eliminator tail light and turn signal cluster in the back which is also led. what are hl relays? if the bike has an oem ducati alternator, is there a more recent higher output unit that has the same physical dimensions that would swap into the v11? i have some friends who are very knowledgeable wrt to ducatis... thank you!

Found this: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-altkit105.htm Just wrote to them asking if it was compatible with the v11 sport. Not holding my breath... EDIT: they say it isn't compatible. The search goes on...

My bike is shifting much better now that I replaced the arm and all the springs. I think also putting in the correct amount of fresh Redline gear oil made her happier too. I accidentally added 20ml of moly as well, which is supposed to go in the rear drive hub, but I figured hey, why not, and left it there. Shifts like butter now.

Just wondering if anyone knows of a way to get more output from the v11 sport, either with an aftermarket alternator, a swap from another model, or from another brand altogether (someone I was speaking with said there was a possibility that a Ducati alternator might be compatible, didn't know which one.) The 350W stock alternator doesn't leave much wiggle room to play with... Thanks!

I haven't fully explored this site yet, but it looks VERY promising: http://www.rsbikepaint.com/

It passed NYC road inspection, for what its worth (which admittedly might not be worth much.) I'll take some pics and post them. They are pretty bright though, and the flashing actually animates instead of just blinking on and off, so it is very eye catching.

Hey, sorry I never got back to you. In case you're still looking, this is the one I have: http://www.harpermoto.com/led-taillight-conversion-for-v11-sport-and-lemans-1999-2004.html Looks really nice and clean tucked under the tail section, and it's very visible. I also have blinkers up front that can be seen from behind. Planning on installing some bar end signals, just for redundancy's sake, also because I think they look cool

Thanks for the tips. I'll just bring them the wheel then ride my bike over there, hopefully shouldn't be too tough for them to match the silver... Would be nice to be able to get the official red.

So, I'm getting all my ducks in a row to swap the front end off my '01 v11 sport. The gsxr front wheel I'll be using is black. I'd like it to be the same silver as my current stock wheels are. How do I go about getting the correct color to match? Can it be ordered by any paint shop I bring it to, or should I special order it for them? I'm assuming the wheels are powder coated, is this correct? I'd also like to get the same red used on the frame. I have places where the red has flaked off, where there are areas of rust, staining, and wear. I'd like to be able to brush it on in spots... Thanks in advance for the help!

Yes, the CG-9002 is the one I bought from Harper Moto, also is sold by MG Cycle. MG Cycle lists it for the v11 Sport, oddly Harper Moto doesn't. http://www.harpermoto.com/k-and-n-air-filter-en-2.html http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1589&osCsid=1e33efadc48680628b8beeea873b8811

Got it. Ordered the bearings, will do the job when it's no longer safe or comfortable to ride here, most likely after mid November. I've got pretty much everything else, other than the stuff necessary to have a headlight and gauges, but not I'm too worried about that. Thanks again! When I get it going, I'll post about my progress with before during and after pics.

^^^ THIS is what I'm talking about! Except I'd want to do it with a combo gauge so I only had one. Very very nice work.

I just bought a K&N air filter for my v11, haven't installed it yet... I just assumed it would be an upgrade over the stock one. Was that a bad idea?

So, as the days get shorter and the evenings get cooler, I start to think ahead to the winter and doing this swap job. I'd like to buy the bearings, pretty much the only thing missing at thins point to do the swap. All Balls Racing has two versions of the tapered roller bearing in the 30/52 size: 16mm stack height and 17mm. Was wondering which height I should get. The diagram in the workshop manual doesn't specify how deep the bearing seats are. @GuzziMoto mentioned that a spacer was needed in the GSXR triple clamp stack because the stem is a little longer than the Guzzi's. Should I get the 17mm ones then, to get me closer to the height needed? If anyone has removed the steering bearings from their v11 and knows what the stack height is, I'd love to know. Thanks!

"Just get them snug and retighten them before each ride for the next 4 times you ride. Check them occasionally after this. You will get accustomed to what is tight and too (snap or twisting off) tight is." Will do. Took her out last night, didn't have time to check afterwards, will check tomorrow and gently re-tighten as needed, if needed.

Heh. Happens to the best of us. So, does anyone have any experience with relocating the idiot lights? I was looking at the parts catalog, and they appear to just be a cluster of lights on the ends of some wires. Presumably it shouldn't be too hard to drill out a piece of metal to the right diameter to hold them in place, and then mount that piece of metal somewhere on the top clamp. I was at the NYCVMS this weekend, and saw a bike built by Jane Motorcycles that had really nice little switches built into the top clamp, with the wires running through a little hole underneath they had drilled through. Very clean, very simple.

I want to get a combo tach/speedo and get rid of the whole stock cluster, just have one gauge. I like making things simple, therefore way too complicated. :-/

Done! The rusty studs came out easily. Turns out there were gaskets in there after all, really crusted up and they had some surface rust too. Not pretty. Cleaned the threads out with wd40, a tap, and carb spray. Put the new studs in with some nickel based anti seize (they're stainless, didn't want to have them gall or break threads, didn't want to use thread sealer and never be able to get them out.) Cleaned the inside of the ports out as much as possible, but I didn't want to abrade or score the mating surface so I went easy on them. Put some silicone sealant on the inside of the gaskets. Then buttoned it all up. I torqued the nuts down to 15lbs. Didn't want to over do it and risk breaking threads. The nut on the under side of the header is in a real awkward spot. Can't really get a ratchet let alone a torque wrench in there. So I tightened both of them with a spanner by feel, as best I could. Took her out for a spin after and all seems well. No signs of exhaust blowing out anywhere. So, on to the next rat's nest... Thanks for your help guys. Edited to add: why does the, official no less, workshop manual suck so much? The instructions amount to this: "take it apart, then put it back together again." No mentions of torque. Or measurement of wear. No indications for the sizes and thread pitch for fasteners. The workshop manuals for my early '70s Hondas are better than this. The manual for my '86 Yam srx600 lists every single nut and bolt on the bike including the torque for each one. The v11 Sport manual is anxiety inducing in its lack of detail. Maybe Italians are just born knowing everything about maintaining these bikes... ?

Well, after consulting with various wiser, more talented and experienced people, I've been convinced that the gps based speedo units are the way to go. I think having an accurate tach is more important anyway, and it makes things much easier with regard to wiring. the SpeedHut combo units are starting to look pretty good. they don't have many idiot lights built in though, and I'd really like to retain my low fuel, battery, oil and neutral lights. what does one do about that? without getting too deep down the rabbit hole, I was thinking those lights could be moved to a drilled out piece of aluminum sheet metal, then mounted back to the top clamp somehow. am I out of my mind, or is it actually not a completely unreasonable idea?

I'd like to get rid of the stock speedo and tach. My tach is busted anyway, and a new one costs $300+ for a unit that from I read here and have heard elsewhere is a piece of crap that will likely break again anyway. Does anyone have any experience with replacing theirs? I am not really interested in GPS based speedos or bicycle style magnetic pickups. Ideally I'd like to have a speedo that runs off the stock cable. The tach seems to run off the ignition and that seems to be a little easier to work with. I'd also prefer to have an analog dial for the tach, and a digital readout for speed. I know I know, very specific, very picky... I'd be curious to know what my options are. I really like this one: http://motogadget.com/en/analog-gauges/analog-tacho-classic/motoscope-classic.html Except the speed is measured with a bicycle style pickup placed on the wheel. Otherwise it's what I'm looking for, in terms of design. Thoughts? Thank you!

Will do! It's pretty gunked up in there, so I will absolutely clean out as much crust as possible and quadruple check to find the old gaskets and remove them. I'm thinking that at some point I will want to look into tuning the fueling system, and possibly ugrading to a Power Commander. One step at a time though...

So, in case anyone is curious, the measurements are: 12mm for the exterior threads, 15 mm for the smooth shank, 16mm for the interior threads. Diameter of the threads is 8mm, the shank is 7.5mm I removed the header, just to take a peek at the exhaust gasket, and lo and behold! There is no gasket in there. So this is probably a good thing. I didn't check the other side, but no reason to believe that it should be any different. Stuck my fingers in there and there is a lot of black dry powdery carbon in there... The valve felt pretty much coated in crust. Is this normal? Now I'm off to the internets to see if I can find these studs in stainless. First stop is arp-bolts.com they seem to have a pretty wide selection. I'll report back with my findings. FOLLOW UP: ordered from jegs.com They have the arp bolt kit, which includes 12 point open nuts and washers. The studs have allen sockets on the end to facilitate installation. Pricey, at $42 for the four studs, four nuts and washers. Seems to be very high quality and arp are a reputable manufacturer of high performance fasteners etc. Can't wait to get them installed, a little nervous about removing the old studs...

Does anyone know off hand what size/pitch/length these are? I'd like to order replacements, the sizes aren't listed in the parts catalog. I'd like to not have to remove the studs to measure them before doing the actual job. Just ordered new exhaust gaskets, was going to wait till I had everything needed to do the job before taking it apart. I'm guessing they're M8x1.25, no idea what the lengths of the threaded portions are (they look to be of equal lengths in the parts catalog drawings), or what the length of the smooth middle section is. Worse comes to worse, I'll remove the one I got out last night and measure off of it. Thanks for your help thus far!

The whole stud turns in its threads when I attempt to loosen the rusted-on acorn nuts. The nuts don't budge. I took one stud out completely, held it in a bench vise to try to get the nut off (no heating or lube just brute force) and it wouldn't move. So I cleaned up the threads a little, put on some anti seize and put it back on the bike. I don't wNt to bother with cleaning up the old studs, I want to replace them, preferably with stainless. I underatand the concern with the nylon lock nuts. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use standard open nuts with lock washers? I have a set of stainless acorn nuts, ready to go. But those trap moisture, if possible I'd rather not use them.