sp838

This is the one I have, which was made before the newer one I posted above. Works just fine but was difficult to mount, doesn't fit on the stock mounting bracket: https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Universal-Style-Hot-Shot-Series-Rectifier-Regulator-10_001H

Revival Cycles sells this universal kit, which is really nice as it includes the automotive style connectors. Much better than crappy bullet connectors. https://shop.revivalcycles.com/lifepo4-optimized-mosfet-permanent-magnet-regulator-rectifier/

Received my set. They look slightly different from yours, hopefully they are correct. And I hope you don't mind if I pester you with questions when I get around to installing them heheh EDIT: confirmed with Joe that these are correct. The hole pattern is different on these newer iterations.

If you change the r/r, get a MOSFET instead of diode based unit. They run cooler and are more durable. Rick's Motorsport Electrics sells one for single phase alternators. If you also have the good idea of upgrading to LiFePO4 battery, which will save you about ten pounds compared to the stock boat anchor, they make one that is optimized for charging those batteries.

I had a leak at the lower end from over tightening the flange connector to the sump. Started pissing oil all over the place, had to get a new hose. Not from the top though. Have you tried reinstalling with a fresh set of crush washers?

Just ordered a set... Phil, you are an enabler!

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm also going to tell him about Motiv Cycle Works, they seem like nice and competent people. And also OC Motorcycle, though they are all the way out in California. John Zibell is probably the most practical in terms of proximity...

I have a friend who has a 1975 850 T in need of gearbox and clutch help. I had recommended Charley at Zydeco Racing, but unfortunately he has retired. I think he was widely considered to be the best in the biz here in the US. So I was wondering if anyone could recommend another shop. Here in the US of course, East Coast and Mid to Lower Atlantic (he's in Florida) would be preferred but all options would be welcome. Thanks!

Wow, is that what it costs to get a dyno tune in the UK? Luckily for us, the cost is about a third of that here in the US. While it's nice to be able to fiddle around with the ECU, I prefer to have a precise map made for my specific bike. It's also nie to have a unit like the PC# that you can make adjustments to on the fly, unlike with our clunky old ECUs with maps that need to be downloaded, edited, saved, uploaded back, and then you have to reboot it. It's a pain in the ass. So yeah, still money well spent, but we get a better deal I guess. What I'm curious about is the MyECUn which seems like it can be modified on the fly... The problem still remains that if you want to have your bike actually tuned on a dyno, here in the US pretty much all tuners use DynoJet dynos and software, and tuners aren't interested in fiddling around with clunky old ECUs, homebrew software such as Guzzidiag and arcane proprietary products like MyECU.

wow $280 from Harpers! You could just buy these in bulk for an even bigger discount and replace them once a month at that price...

So a happy medium? How much less compared to the stock flywheel? Would adding some drillium to it be worthwhile?

Looks like at 4000 rpm your map raises the fueling, which would lessen that trough. Similar corrections at 2000 rpm. So, money well spent

I wonder how this would compare with my PC3 map which was developed on a Dynojet dyno... I can send it to you if you want. Granted my bike has pod filters and an aftermarket exhaust, so might not be an appropriate comparison. Just putting it out there if you're curious.

Thanks LP. My heart sank there for a moment lol

Just received what very well might be the world's last NOS 6 speed single clutch disc hub... Fingers crossed for the rest!

My single plate hub is out for delivery, I should have it today! No word from HMB on shipment of the RAM kit. I'll try to reach them on Monday, they don't answer emails and only answer the phone for a small window of hours a day which is very annoying. Once I get the kit, I'm wondering what to be looking for on the parts that might indicate conpatibility or lack thereof, before actually taking anything on the bike apart... This is the kit again: https://hmb-guzzi.de/RAM-single-disc-clutch I can't really tell for sure if it's the same one MG Cycle has... *Pretty sure all the bikes listed are carbureted models.** (see edit below) Looking at their photo vs. the one Phil posted above, theirs doesn't have those bolts going through on the edge of the flywheel. EDITED TO ADD: Among the compatible bikes listed on the HMB product page is the California 1100 EV which -does- have a "flywheel" or Phase/revolution sensor, with the same part number as ours!!! the plot thickens... The Cali EV uses the same double clutch internals but not the same flywheel or starter ring gear or springs.

I know the guys at Moto Studio personally. They convert V11 bikes to carb all the time. I seen the bikes in the metal, they run fine. The carbs of choice if money is no object are the Keihin FCR 41mm flat slides: https://moto-studio.com/collections/builds/products/high-roller This is a real world bike, as are all of their builds Not trailer queens. The Dellorto PHM is the more budget minded route, also works just fine. Ignition provided by Sachse, comes with about 8 pre-programmed curves, you can have the box programmed for twin plugged heads if desired. I have nothing against EFI. I think it's pretty awesome actually, especially for track/race bikes that you want to max out power and have no emissions fuel economy or noise concern with. My Daytona 675 puts out 118 hp with no engine mods, just intake and exhaust, a race alternator and some dyno wizardry by my tuner. For my Guzzi, the opportunity to drop 25 pounds while making the wiring harness more reliable is a serious consideration. But thanks to docc I think I may have figured out how to have best of both worlds. Simplified m-unit wiring and keep the EFI (for money reasons mostly)

...said in the voice of Obi Wan Kenobi Thank you docc! This was a lightbulb (pun intended?) moment! Looking at the parts fiche really helps to make sense of it, and now the wiring diagram is clearer too. It seems like there are only a few wires feeding the entire EFI+ignition system, basically the ones coming out of two relays... Maybe one or two other stragglers, but at first glance it seems like that might be all it would take to move it over to the m-unit. Very encouraging stuff. Almost tempted to get started on it right now!

I wasn't aware that the harness was actually two physically separate entities, thanks docc. Looking at the wiring diagram, those two major systems seem entangled. Maybe the approach is to first rip out everything that isn't related to the EFI and ignition, and re-wire that, and then the rest might appear less opaque. I want to keep the EFI mainly from the "Sunken Cost Fallacy" cognitive bias: I already put time treasure blood sweat and tears into it. I know some people first hand who have done it with great success. Power gains and massive weight drop, simpler wiring harness and mechanical relibility. It's just very expensive - about $2500-3000 all in to do it right (carbs alone are about $1500)