sp838

So just want to confirm that the switch is normally-closed type, ie, it should be passing current through (and lighting up the bulb) when there is no oil pressure.

Gracias. Hopefully it's something dumb like disconnected or clipped wire.

Where is it located? We haven't been introduced yet.

When I turn on the ignition, the other dash lights come on (charging system, neutral, etc) but not the oil light. There is power going to the light, I tested the red and black striped wire and the bulb, both are working. The bike has been sitting all winter, haven't fired her up yet, could it just be a case of PMS (parked motorcycle syndrome)? Anything I can do to test it? I'll be firing her up very soon, just have a couple more little things I want to finish up first. Any suggestion in the meantime would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Just crawled around under my bike and can confirm that my 2001 red frame sport naked has the simpler lower subframe without the extended arms, but it does have the nubs on the spine for mounting the bell housing plate on the right side. According to the parts diagrams I've seen, the 2001 bikes should have the newer subframe and crankcase/bellhousing/whatever it is it bolts to....

Still possible to get in on this? Should I call Don, or did I see this thread too late?

I have a domino throttle. It works fine, but I want one that points down, not to the side.

If you're really interested in learning trail braking, you could take a class with the Yamaha Champions Riding School (YCRS). Trail braking is their big obsession for improving cornering, for faster riding but also for safety and better overall technique. They preach it like gospel for both track and street riders. It's on my to-do list, haven't been able to go yet but fingers crossed that I can make it this summer. They have classes scheduled at tracks all over the US. They do BYOB as well as provide brand new Yams for rent if you'd rather flog theirs.

I have one, it's not as ugly in real life as it is in photos, and has the advantage of being compatible with the H&B top cases. I've definitely loaded it with more than 5kg worth of junk with no adverse effects.

I hung the GPR exhaust myself, it was pretty easy. There was a little fiddling necessary to get the muffler bracket where I wanted it, and I needed a couple extra washers and a longer bolt, but it was all "bolt on" type of stuff. I too have a PC3, the reason being that it makes dyno tuning possible. The ECU can't be updated in real time, certainly not the way it can with a USB connection as easily as the Power Commander, and pretty much all the performance tuning shops here in the US use Dyno Jet stuff. I frankly don't understand the hate for the PC3, it's pretty awesome actually. You can even map each cylinder individually, and swapping out maps is really quick and easy.

Standard brake lines have female threaded ends, that the banjo fittings screw into. The slave cylinder hole is M10, can't remember if the pitch is 1.0 or 1.25, but I replaced mine and it's way better. I used a 45º banjo which is easier to route out of that very tight area. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330513927223 This is the line I bought, it's longer than stock because I'm running Renthal bars and bar risers, but those ends are what you want. Then you need one of these for the slave: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351999077126 Then you'll need a straight one for the clutch, and two M10 bolts, again I don't remember the pitch for the Grimeca, but pretty sure it's 1.0 for the Brembo master.

Ditch the hose and use a standard braided ss brake line with banjo fittings and crush washers, works much better than those garbage hoses that are prone to leaking.

I love my GPR!

awwww yeah that what I'm talmbout

hahaha, phone charger and go-winkie in one!

I have fitted a 2002+ tank on my 2001, fits better than the original one. I had it lined to prevent bloating and melting from crappy ethanol gas. Was pretty easy to convert to internal pump etc. The fuel hoses are a little tricky to route but it worked out great. I used Goodridge metal quick disconnects in the hoses so that I wouldn't have to fuss with the plastic ones, which scare me because they seem so easy to break. The wires for the electric petcock were freed up, and I am using them as a switched power source for a handle bar mounted USB plug to charge my phone.

Thanks for all the input guys. Seems like Guzzimoto's post which docc linked to above explains it best. PCV + return line is no good because the engine will attempt to suck air through the return line. So it's either PCV + remove the return line (maybe have it go to a catch bottle) or keep the stock setup. I'm guessing Guzzi eliminated the ball valve because it probably didn't work very well and let too much oil by. The return line makes sense from a maintenance standpoint. It wouldn't be too hard to have two setups and compare them. Stock, and one where a valve was put in the crank breather hose and the return line went to a bottle. It's all bolt-on stuff. 68C, I was asking mainly because I am always curious about ways to reduce the amount of clutter of hoses and wires and extra fittings etc etc on the bike, and it looked like a possible candidate for removal if in fact it wasn't crucial to the operation of the engine.

If I'm looking at it right, the parts diagrams for our bikes just show the big hose coming out of the back of the top part of the case, with a few hose clamps and a plate that holds it in place. I'll go look at the drawings for the older 1100's.

docc, what years/models are you thinking of?

Where would you use this? Gearbox cover?

Fair point. I'll have to ask those who have recommended them what they think about that. Generally speaking, the answer to questions like this is: money. The bikes that roll out of the factory aren't the best they can possibly be, they are only sometimes the best the factory can put out for the price point in the market they are trying to sell them at. For example, the frames on our bikes aren't made of chromoly or 7075 because they'd be too expensive if they were. The bodywork is nylon, not carbon fiber. A Yugo has four wheels and an engine, but it's not a Ferrari. Adding a check valve to the breather is an added expense in terms of sourcing the part, as well as in additional assembly steps at the factory. Because Guzzi opted not to have one doesn't mean the bike wouldn't benefit from it. Anyway, I am now looking into the "race" crankcase breather valves made by aftermarket Ducati part manufacturers. There are some sexy ones out there, but they cost about ten times what the brake booster check valves cost, of course...

I have been advised by esteemed sources as well as from some forum crawling that power brake booster check valves work well.

Unfortunately not. Way too much on my mind, this sort of thing helps with that

Hmm, good to know. Theory is that a check valve in the crank breather can reduce positive pressure in the bottom end and thereby among other benefits reduce how much air/oil gets spat out. Ducati, BMW, even Harley uses them, and have been for quite a while. The new Panigale goes so far as to having a pump in the crankcase to keep it under negative pressure. Methinks it can help. They aren't expensive, either.

I'm thinking I might install a check valve on the crank breather, then replace the return line with a length of clear hose with a plug in it. Then I can have a visual on how much is being returned. I can always revert to stock if it's looking like there's a lot of oil that wants to come back. I do have a Roper plate installed fwiw.