Any other problems beside the diameter of the pushing end where it fits into the cup? Length issues +/-? I was planning on just turning the end of it down to fit. The ID of the cup that came with my kit is approx. 6.4mm, was going to turn my rod end down to 6mm.
It's the r/r, taking up all of the 22 mA of draw. Tested the diodes and they are passing in both directions. The good news is none of the other circuits are leaking, including the GPS speedo.
So:
– do I keep it and put it on a relay to keep it from leaking when the bike is off?
– Or is it just gonna die anyway, and may as well replace it? This pisses me off, it's not even two years old and I barely put a few hundred miles on it.
– If I do replace it, should I give Electrosports another shot? I've heard good things about the products offered by Rick's Motorsports...
– If It do replace it, should I wire it up directly again, or should put in on a relay to be safe? I'd honestly rather not add yet another bunch of wires to get it switched on a relay. I'd be fine with just pulling the fuse when I park it without putting it on a battery tender.
I put a gsxr front end on mine, aside from designing and having machined my own top triple clamp it was relatively painless I highly recommend doing it.
"Typically shimming the rocker arms is done by custom making bronze spacers to fit--you must have .004" side clearance to allow for oil to escape and the growth of the spacer--use 630 bronze--Be sure the ends of your rocker arms a smooth."
And from Charley at Zydeco Racing:
"I'm not sure how much play would be removed by replacing the springs with solid spacers. I ran solid spacers on my race bike, but that was more to help with oil pressure. If you do go to solid spacers, they need .004" clearance between the rocker stand and the rocker arm.....measured at either end of the spacer. Be sure that both ends of the rocker arm are square and machined smooth, as well as the area on the rocker stands where the spacers will contact them. If they need to be cleaned up or machined, do this before measuring for your spacer which must be .004" shorter than that distance. If the oil has no where to go, very little will ever reach the rockers.
If you have a lot of side to side movement, you probably need new rocker arm bushings and spindles. Also, if you have sacked springs, worn copper thrust washers (that are pushed on by the springs) and worn bushings and spindles, you can bleed off excessive amounts of oil, which will lower your overall oil pressure. If you ever change the small bolts which attach the spindles to the rocker stands, make sure they are no longer than the stock bolts or they will block off the oil coming up through the stand, which then is directed down through the center of the spindles and lubricates the rocker arms. Make sure that the rocker stands have not warped and the bosses in the heads where the rockers mount are still flat and square. Since there is no gasket there, you can bleed off a lot of oil pressure, if things don't mate well."
Not a quickie job, but good to know how to do it if the interest ever arises. I plan on taking my bike to the track next season, so it's not out of the realm of possibility.
sp838's post in RAM clutch? was marked as the answer