footgoose

I like the Stornello as well, especially the red frame with the Arrow pipe. Fine machines indeed. Owning a Guzzi without passion for Guzzi can sometimes be, as with anything else, an onerous affair. Or as stated in my '65 Honda riders manual, the result of neglected maintenance could "chase you from riding further"

It's on the Tenni and believe it's factory wiring. Possibly the diagram being for '04 and Tenni being '02 is the diff. Or maybe a mistake on the diagram. Or maybe they used a different switch in mine. It is a Guzzi after all. The clutch safety switch and r/r only come together in my 'event scenario'. I'm referring to my breakdown at SSR16 and subsequent diagnosis of a dead R/R. As we've discussed, the R/R is susceptible to heat and age. The location on the Tenni is the worst! Laid high and flat and behind the oil cooler. With the start button not working, I had my gear off, seat off, tools out, relays, manual out, starter cover off, etc.. experimenting ...looking for a start problem.. and the thing starts up! Afraid to turn it off, I reassemble everything as fast as possible. Probably took 7-10 min to get rolling, on a hot day... 2 minutes into the ride, the light comes on, never to charge again. Seems like a perfect storm to destroy a R/R. I'm using language from the diagram re: clutch switch connectors #60

So, what I'm calling a boss on the underside of the top clamp is I believe a reinforced area for drilling for handle bar risers. They are on the early bikes as well but that area is drilled and tapped for a 'swivel lock' for the early bike's fork mounted risers. So, any top clamp will do if you're of a mind to have it drilled.

So I'm pursuing the first of what I think is a 2 part problem. First, my non responding starter button issue and a search brought me to this thread. Pretty sure it's the start circuit's problematic bullet connectors. Classic symptoms. I got them apart with difficulty, they were Tight, but wiggled within the connection. The thing I noticed in this thread is Taxguy's pic of wiring does not match mine OR what's shown on KiwiRoy's wiring diagram (above) Mine matches the diagram with the exception of a wire color change going out (to the switch) of the connectors. (2 black/white going in and 1 blk and 1 gry going to switch) I'm sure I have located the correct connectors as #60 'clutch switch' because they are the only connectors I could see on the diagram and they are in the right place. I may have got the connectors wires crossed up on reassembly but I tested the start button both ways and it worked. I finished up everything at docc's recommendation and hopefully that's that. I'll move on to "part 2" of my issue in another thread. Dead rectifier. I think the issues are actually related but that's another story.

I think the "boss" or reinforcement is on all of them. So they can be drilled and safely used. (at least the later ones) I will check. I'm sure the '03 has them.

Yes more pictures! Welcome. Looks like you've succeeded in replicating the Tenni green. I like the early LeMans fairing too. I'm working on that one myself. It seems one must push the headlight bucket out a bit to get it to fit properly. OR have you got that mounted to a LeMans fixed fairing bracket??

Got booked in yesterday. Good friend Yamaha Bill will be attending again.

here's an old thread about green. photos aren't convincing but he sounds convinced. definitely a lead to follow though. please post any results. I'm looking for a green bike and will likely need the same. this makes complete sense as Guzzi already had the silver pieces

Wow what year was that?

hmmm. .. I'd be interested to know of a specific high quality upgrade.

Thanks for the candor (and tact). I'm with you completely on all this but wouldn't have a source for HCQ or Ivermectin. If I contract I'll just ask the Doc for it. What "style/form" of melatonin are you using. I took it long ago for a sleep aid but found that it woke me up about 4 hrs in. I guess I could take it in the morning. Allergies foul my lungs so I look forward to trying this. I take 2000iu D daily since forever, bumped to 3000 the last couple months with the related research. Emergen-C almost daily. Zinc when I feel something coming on.

Yes, pursue repairs. It should shift smoothly. Several points need attention, most of which is addressed in

I could have worded that differently. They had other reasons for the subtle frame changes. The LM fairing is what I speculate pushed them to pull the trigger on the new frame. Not likely an easy decision considering cost. The early frame surely needed braced but as you said, it could have handled the LM fairing. The real question in my mind is why the 1100 Sport was not designated a LeMans. Makes no sense.

Responding to Kane triples are all 54mm so they'll work either way. The neck post and bearings..? I ain't positive but why would they be different? Overall length of the Ohlins is 20 - 23 mm longer than the early front legs. You'll just have to run them up into the clamps a bit to maintain the same geometry. All the post '01 bike forks are longer to accommodate the new frame specs and allow for the new style clip-on. I'm still of the opinion that the later frame was designed primarily for the addition of the LeMans to the expanding line. The axle, I do not know but the correct axle and spacer should come with the forks. Front wheel and bearing 'should' be the same

high retail for used. they've had them since last summer. I got several pieces from that bike. thing is you can't get those except from a parted out bike... DAMHIKT

I've done the same but with printed off sections of google maps, highlighted and cut into trapezoids. I rode once long ago with a guy who used one of those scroll thingies. I thought that was cool but didn't have the patience to prep one.

Nearly a year into this thread. Time enough to reflect. Much of that reflection is of a political nature or could be construed as such. We don't do that here on the forum and that's not what this is about. Just a guy in Indianapolis and what it's like to look back. One life and his small world. I do carpentry with a medium sized ($150k-$1m+) remodeling co. A crew of 6 and a dozen sub/vendors coming and going. Almost no one wore/wears a mask. I mostly did, but I did before covid. All private residences, and homeowners were all good with how things were done. Our work was unaffected by virus or virus mandates. About September I semi retired. Still do smaller projects. I'd say about half of those I encounter do not mask. I wear a mask indoors where appropriate. Our restaurants have been open for the most part. I meet friends for lunch 1 or 2 times a month. You have to mask till you get to the table and once there, you don't. The employees mask, per the law. I've had 3 Dentist appointments and 3 Doctor visits. All very masked. My last Dentist trip was normal PPE though. They are clearly over it, they only take temps to start. My tight circle of friends and family is about 10. Two of those have had it, and with light symptoms. In the larger circle of friends and acquaintances, a dozen or more have caught it. No symptoms more complex than flu fortunately. My old bosses daughter got it twice, first time no symptoms, just got tested as a courtesy. I have yet to catch covid or take the vax. Recently the older folks I know are starting to get the shot. Reactions have been arm pain and "a little dizzy". So, other than the politics involved with it, I'd be curious to know how anyone else has been affected. Except for the first month and the mass toilet paper grab, this city seems pretty normal. I don't do anything much different than I used to, but as an old guy I was not all that socially active before. Looking forward to Spring/Summer and a return somewhat, to normalcy. Stay safe and healthy

Welcome! The 'main' difference to consider is '99 - '01 or '02 - '05 The later frames are a tad longer and a few model 'upgrades' occurred during this time.

so That's where our motors came from!

They look well made. Nice that they are plug and play with the resistor 'kit' It would be nice to know what size resistor would accomplish this as simply as they have done. Without having to dive into the dash panel and fiddle with the idiot light or solder something somewhere to make them flash. I did buy some recommended units for that but they were quite large, encased in alm, and got very hot. I threw them out. If someone with electrical wherewithal could recommend a size to begin experimenting with, I'll give it a shot. We know that stuff is cheap and many of us would run LED signals if it were that easy. At the moment I run LED on the rear with my tail tidy and some semi-acceptable small incandescent ones up front, with a different flasher. Works fine but would like to use the LED all round. Would LED units with differing numbers of D's require different resistance? I have some with 6 and some with 10.

Exactly. there are so many explanations for left side tire wear. I was wrong re: axle misalignment on V11... UNless the swing arm is bent (again not likely) but..'//and including theories of ... road crown (right side driving) applies but not that significant. if you drive on the right side of the road then left turns add more miles (true) but usually only front. left turns are more comfortable so you lean further and are more confident (applies to me) bias weight of the bike to the right will cause an unconscious rider lean to the left to balance. in the end I don't see any of the above accounting for the unusual wear that tire shows. not in the rear. never seen anything like it. ... has the bike been crashed? Some info is missing.

thinking of my 3 other bikes with that adjustment

OR improper rear wheel alignment - left side axle further forward than right side.

Welcome DavidB, there is a long ago thread of a member here doing Suzuki clamps and Ohlins on a V11. Probably a good idea. Let us follow the journey, ,, all of us here secretly want an 1100 Spot so post some photos when you get round tuit....

anyone play bass?