footgoose

Stunning condition, congratulations. The rear rack is a Guzzi accessory piece btw.

The stock bag is just "ok" but I still use mine. I'm on my second one because the zipper broke on the first. It's fairly handy. The tank pad/protector that comes with it is outstanding. I have used on occasion an older tour-tech strap on bag over the MG tank pad. The MG bag tank pad is substantial enough as a base to even things out for the tank chin pad AND provide side shimming to hold up any other bag you might use.... considering being limited to a bag with neck-to- seat length strap mounts, it is quite a distance to cover and maintain stability. I don't know which Kieiga you have but check the possibilities of strapping it to the tank. We don't have many options available so ..once again... Guzzi has provided 'creativity' as a possible answer.

Chuck's Scura`came.

You will both be missed.

nice Dave, thanks

I've often wondered if and how thread lubricants might alter torque response.

I really think it is the micro switch at the front brake lever. Loosen the tiny bolt/nuts and wiggle the the switch some, making sure there is no binding, pull the brake lever and let it flip back... if the light goes out, you found it. Flip the lever as you re-tighten the bolts to be sure the light stays out, without tightening 'too' tight. This has happened to me twice on different V11. Once just loosening the bolts made the light go out. It is a sensitive little switch. If this doesn't fix it, I still think it's the switch.

The caliper bolts were very snug. Not so much the pinch bolts. I think I would have used blue. I'll just clean them this time, with proper torquing. As you've pointed out, nothing's going to fall off

oddly enough my first thought at seeing the stuff in the threads was silver anti seize. Heck, it's possible I had this knowledge at some point and it went. Will proceed as you suggest. ty sir.

I hear ya Jami. I'm 70 and possibly more fortunate physically than some. What Phil says makes sense. I'm not sure I'd ride anything for 8 hrs without something hurting. I got used to the stock LeMans and wouldn't change it. If I ever get to the point of not being able to safely ride her, she'll be parked in the living room. My longer ride bike is a Yamaha FJ09. Fast, comfy, reliable. But, not Italian..

Doing a front wheel install with new tire today and bolting everything up. The 10mm's on the caliper mounts and the 8mm axle pinch bolts have what appears to be thread locker gunk/remnants in the threads...ok... but it's grey! I don't know what this is. Does heat change the color? I swapped the wheel out 2 years ago and can't remember what color I used. Surely it was blue? Shirley? Will use standard torque values for the caliper @45-50nm and the pinch bolts @25-30nm since I can't locate the spec. UNLESS it "feels" too much on the pinch bolts. Sound good? Also ... shouldn't there be schnorr's at the pinch bolts? (Ohlins)

the pawl spring only puts tension on the arm, for positive engagement. Not sure which spring aids the shift lever. I suspect one of "those others"

not without slight modification. I have sold it. Thanks

^^^ this is a very good sign ^^^

that looks good, it's been awhile since I did mine. One of those allen head bolts at the bottom (behind the frame rail) is a bit tricky. I sacrificed a wrench (cut it off) and used a small steel tube as a cheater bar for adequate torque. Somewhere on the forum is a Lucky Phil thread on "finessing" some of the other bits... while your in there, very worthy read.. I used three-bond 1194 (grey) to seal her up.

I use a very old standard charger set to manual and 6a. I time it and try to not forget. I have 3 545's and this charger works fine. I have done the conditioning protocol and brought back one I thought dead, and successfully condition the other 2 seasonally. Only question for me would be how to discharge them on the bench. I used a test clip with a light but it doesn't pull enough.

I wasn't too bothered by the bubbling paint, but I did take advantage of the motor being out for clutch replacement to strip and paint it. I did not do the transmission as it did not seem affected. If the motor is not being removed, I would touch up with brushed flat black hobby enamel. The rest of the bike showing is pretty clean, how many miles on her?

gorgeous. well done

"the winter of our discount tent"

brilliant

Why just the caps? easier than dealing with the coil end? just curious as I have a damaged cap and deciding how best to proceed.

I'm gonna guess.... a half degree will bring the front axle 7-8 mm closer

Docc, there was speculation re my Sport and the half degree. With frame # 112086 it seems it falls into that group. Maybe at SSR there would be enough guys present to get a fairly accurate wheelbase comparison.. just fer kicks.

"a drunkards dream if I ever did see one...." The Band