Bjorn

Added the pics to the V11 gallery, seems to work fine

Yes the rear wheel locked up! After coming to a stop we diagnosed the following: Engine works fine, clutch works and is able to disengage the engine from gearbox. No exterior damage could be observed on any parts. We used the centre stand to lift the rear wheel from the ground. After 10 minutes of messing with the gear lever we found something that felt like neutral (N light on). We could rotate the rear wheel During further rotation of the rear wheel (like during the pushing onto the trailer) horrible metallic grinding noises could be heard from the gearbox . We had the idea to open the gear shifter assembly plate on the LHS of the gearbox to maybe see what the F*ck happened. But since it was unsure when the AA would arrive we did not open it up. Risking a half disassembled bike by the time help would arrive. Once we get it back here, we will take the gearbox off en open her up. By that time I hope to have figured out how google photos works

Out of the blue everything locked up. Thank god it was at a very small road at low speed. After that shifting was near to impossible and the noise from the gearbox was terrible. Even during pushing. The AA Guy was very helpfull and towed the bike to a bigger City where it is now awaiting shipment. Could take a few weeks.

So the gearbox on the ol V11 died and f*cked up the motorcycle trip for this summer . Bike is still in the UK and will be shipped back to the Netherlands. Might as well share it here for the fellow guzzi owners. Probably be the last topic, since this bike has been in the garage more then the road. BTW anyone got a good picture sharing platform recommendation? Always used picasa but that has been dropped ** pics added

Hi guys, Just a small follow up on this issue: I see you have been brainstorming about this item! The last part I find hard to understand . Anyway after our (my brother and me) last findings some parts have been changed. We started with the reg/rec since it was the easiest to come by. We went for an original OEM replacement from Ducati. Did not seem to make any difference at all acc to my brother. Next he changed the stator for a new one. He took it out for some big test rides (4h+) and did not run into any problems. Battery voltage afterwards seems to be OK. He measured the Vdc at the battery during 3000+RPM and the bike makes around 13,8 V on a crappy VOM. He told me this is comparable to values he had seen during measurements in the past. I find this value to be on the low side, since the manual states around 14.0-14.6 Volts. To conclude, we will change those crappy bullet connectors and the battery in the near future. The extra ground for the reg/rec was already in place before this happened and the rest of the wiring looked OK. Im not 100% convinced we solved it but we'll leave it for now and see what happens.

Why do you think the RR is aftermarket? Its exactly as shown in the official moto guzzi manual (see pic above) anyways the voltage is not going up. Hate to just order parts randomly. Would really like to rule out which part is faulty (if possible).

the saga continues haha. Here are some pics of the setup this bike has. To me this look original (at least acc to the post 2004 manual). Also the link of this wiring diagram: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/2004_V11_Sport_Catalytic.gif The manual was very unclear whether to check the AC output with the alternator (2x yellow) plugged in or not. The result i posted before was with the connector of the 2 yellow wires UNPLUGGED. Just now we repeated the test with everything plugged in and i probed the 2 yellow wire connector with the VOM: Getting around 16 Vac at idle. The AC output does not go up with the revs....

just did some more checking of the wiring/connectors. We measured the continuity between the Green/red wire from the RR to the fuse holder. this was OK (0.3 Ohm). However when i turn on the ignition there is no current to be found at the Green/red wire. But there is at the black ones??? Im confused with all the pixies

Today we checked: RR shortage acc. The manual. From the housing no shortage to any of the wires. Alternator winding isolation. From each of the yellow wires to a earth. No continuity. Alternator winding continuity. Measured around 0.4 ohm. Manual says 0,2-0,3 ohm. However I don't have a calibrated meter so I call that OK. Alternator voltage output: between the two yellow wires....nothing Nada... How we checked output Who designed this shitty connection anyways ?? Doesn't look that crisp. And why would you go from alternator to bullet to normal connectors. seems like these should never have been there in the first place. Anyway based on the none output of the alternator.....can i conclude that its dead? seems weird that the other alternator checks look ok...

This sunday will start working on the bike. This bike does not have the charging indicator light. More posts or question will problably follow

Thanks guys this already gives me some direction where and how to figure this out!

Hello hello, Just came back from a long weekend riding on some beautiful German roads. Only the Guzzi had to be picked up with a trailer Long story short, during the last miles the tacho went off and after stopping the bike wouldn't start. We checked the basis stuff (fuses, relays, clutch bullet connectors etc.) and where able to jump start the bike. But after 10 minutes riding the misfiring started. We where able to limp to a parking lot but that was the end of it. We had to call the ADAC (AAA). According to our diagnoses, top suspects were the battery, reg/rec and alternator. The ADAC mechanic arrived and we could see that with ignition off the voltage at the battery was 11,8V. He used jump leads to start the bike and measure the voltage with some revs....only around 8-9V The bike is now at my brothers home (his bike now). Is there any way we can verify if the reg/rec or the alternator is broken?

Turns out we are not. The bike showed signs of sputtering/misfires. Plugs didn't look to good. I had a bad feeling about this regarding my question for pulling the heads. Turns out my brother forgot to change the plugs on time and these where in for >16.000km. Did a compression test @ cold WOT throttle: LHS: 10bar RHS: 10,5bar. changed the plugs and she's back on the road again

Hi guys, Got a quick question regarding the head studs/nuts. If i pull the heads do I need to replace the studs? Thanks! //Bjorn

Good excuse to return in 2016! I would love to see the shop floor. I work at the largest Scania plant in Europe and there is definitely a resemblance between building a Truck and a motorcycle

Were you allowed to take a look in the Factory as well?

During our vacation in the Austrian and Italian Alps we visited the Moto Guzzi factory/museum in Mandello del Lario. Very nice museum! If you happen to be in northern Italy around lake Como, you should go! Tons of guzzi's, from mopeds to war vehicles and guzzi-powered war drones Tons of guzzi's, from mopeds to war vehicles and guzzi-powered war drones I dont know shit, but i recognize cool shit when I see it I asked how many guzzi's the produced each day, the answer was typical Italian. The guide responded with a English- Italian accent :'' How much?.... I dont know, we ........work'' On our way back to the camp-site, we came through the village of Ballabio, reuniting the machine with the village its named after

Do you have a oil pressure gauge as well? Just curious why Scuds numbers are ''wrong''?

there was no gasket when I pulled it off. During my ownership I have not had this part leaking (knocks on wood). But I did change the fluids and some of the residue is hard to remove.

Just remove the tiny subframe. The cilinder Needs to move backwards anyway. The subframe can be dettached easilly from the pork chips.

Is this the crank vent? It looked like you can only access it after removing the gearbox/clutch.