Bjorn

so did you locate the exact location of the leakage before pulling it apart?

Do you have a external- or internal fuel filter? Dont the early models have ex. and later models have a internal one??

Applying any kind of lubrication to thread will only ensure you transfer more of the tightening torque towards clamping force. If threads are dry, you loose torque due to the friction. So while getting a higher clamping force due to lube, this wont help against all factors loosening bolts, such as relaxation of the base material. If you apply a few drops of locktite or any other chemical locking agent, dont use it in combination with oil or lube. Besides, the locking agents will also reduce friction during assembly, and yield higher clamping forces.

Here is what you are looking for:

just take a regular size flathead screwdriver and place it between the black plastic bit and the steel rotating arm. Then twist, should pop right off.

One or two small drop will do the trick. You can always use heat to break the anaerobic bond.

Button head screws/bolts are very easily available in various materials, including stainless. Its not OEM, but i think they come pretty close....

Cant you use these? :

Mine leaked in the past, here is what i did: I found 2 gaskets as well. Measured them both with a screw gauge. I found unlikely results just a you describe (1,22 mm etc.) So compare your results to the available guzzi thicknesses in the parts catalog. I recommend you dont choose the oversize if you want to apply liquid gasket. Degrease everything! also the new shims. I applied a very thin layer of yamabond between the following surfaces: engine to shim shim 1 to shim 2 shim 2 to the sensor THIN is the keyword here!! mine hassnt leaked in over 3500 km. Note that i did not remeasure the gap between timing sensor and wheel. If im not mistaking, you can find a video of how to measure the gap in this topic: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15694

Damm..... I mean, fuel is expensive here in Holland. But at least I dont have to brew my own stuff

Yeah the MT 07 is great! But is totally different than the Guzzi. At fast corners the Guzzi is a joy and steady as a train. The MT is very agile and also likes the narrower en twisty'er roads. Guzzi is better on the highways due to the tall gearing and mini fairing. The seat/rack of the guzzi is better to load up some (camping) gear. But the MT managed it as well. So the Guzzi has the character and the yamaha finesse. Both great bikes in their own way!

This topic needs more pictures!!

I need to get back to my last post here above: I really liked and still like the Guzzi. I did not sell it. My L brother rides it now. So stays in the family which makes me very happy So I will still hang around here. Maintenance will still need to be done As a starter he got to ride it 3000 KM through Scotland. All is well

I got rid of it because it had more negative effects then positive ones. ''In theory it should help at lower to mid rpms where most guzzi have the ''typical'' dip around 3500-4000'' the tuner said to me . I did not test my bike with and without the balance pipe. I would like to test it but it was unpractical at that moment. So it remains a theoretical topic.... Practical side: I dont notice any difference with or w/o the balance pipe during riding. Back to the surging, I find the advice to ''increase rpms'' in order to make the ride better b*llshit. Its just fighting the symptoms instead of the origin. Besides its far from practical. For example when you ride in higher gears (around 80-100 kph) and are stuck behind traffic or are unable to overtake. You are kind of forced to ride constant speeds with small throttle openings yielding the surging (at least in my case) my advice is unaffected: get the mechanical side OK first, and take it to a fuel specialist afterwards.

Lots of advise in this topic. Based on my personal experience with surging around 3000-3500 rpm, i would also recommend starting with the basics. Most has been covered above. My 2003 ballabio suffered from surging at the stated rpms and did not like small (constant) throttle openings. To cut to the chase; it can be solved if you get all the "dials" right. It took me lots of time to get it right. I could not have done it w/o this forum and all its knowlage. You say your not 'technical'. I can help you but some basic understanding of a motorcycle would be very handy. On the other hand, i knew nothing about FI until i got here...

Yes this can be welded, i would suggest someone who knows his way with a TIG torch. Like stated above, i wonder why this has happened? Is the exhaust stock? In what shape are the mounting points of (complete) exhaust?

This can be fixed. All the things mentioned here can affect "pinging". You indicate that the fuel !mixture might be off. Get this sorted out first, do it yourself or gget it dyno'ed. I only noticed my bike detonating slightly under heavy load recently. Here is a summary how i fixed it. Detailed versions comes later as im off for 4 days riding Get the guzzidiag and tunerpro software. Read all the topics and learn the basics. Next you want to find the "range" where you notice detonation. This is a mix of throttle pos. And rpms. Use guzzidiag as a dashboard to make a scale of the physical throttle position vs the digital one. Should look like this: Next you need to make testrides with normal fuel in order to summon the detonation. I did this in higher gears. When you get detonation mark the throttle pos. And rpm range. You will need this data to adjust the timing with tunerpro/guzzidiag. You want to ignite closer to the tdc. In my sit. I only needed to reduce the timing 1 and some locations 2 degrees to cure the detonation. Ill post details later, im off riding first;) o btw, its not rocket science, just need to take your time

I recently red somewhere ''Moto Guzzi; turning motorcycle riders into mechanics since 1921'' I found it funny and also true. I learned lots of new things from replacing bearings to the fundamentals of FI, all thanks to the Guzzi. It was a relationship with love and hate. But now i have made the decision to spend more time riding bikes an a bit less wrenching. Unfortunately the Guzzi has to go.... Before Im selling the bike, I wanted to know if anybody is interested in the complete exhaust. I feel that most people here on the forum are really passionate about their bikes. So before I sell the bike with exhaust to some random buyer who maybe doesn't even notice the exhaust, i wanted to post it here. I know this is not the ''classified'' forum but since the origin and building took place over here I thought; why not. (Mods feel free to tell me this is not allowed ) Basically its plug and play for a least the latest type of V11. You can use the stock headers, and i'll supply the exhaust+muffler and both the mounting brackets which fit every bike without any fabrication. Below 2 (older) pictures. the rest you can find in this topic. *still with the proto bracket at the rear* -Bjorn

I replaced the oring and used some quality liquid gasket like yama-bond. Smeared a very very thin layer on the contact surface. Maybe the oring only was enough but now is definetly thight. If i remeber it right, the official guzzi workshop videos also applied a film of l. Gasket.

Alright bad news, i found traces of oil on the outputshaft seal again.... This bike is really pushing it. Never needed to wrench/repair so much on a almost stock bike. Getting to the point of stashing it away and just ride my old yamaha since its way more reliable then the guzzi

Good news on this front, i replaced the bullet connectors an it fired right up. Could not find any other abnormalties so it will have to do for now. Thanks again for all the good advise here!

Getting home = -->> Keep you guys posted!

Good advise guys! I was thinking this over @ home with some info from this forum. And the things you guys address are on my list too! this makes me feel a bit more confident (as i really dont like electronics). I used docc's electrical flow chart in combination with the wire diagram to get my head around this. Here is what I got: -hand drawn so maybe hard to read - Green = possible OK - Purple = possible NOK/fail - yellow= unknown/uncertain. since i can hear the fuel pump, the kill switch must supply juice to both the ECU and INJECTION relays. The bike did start before so suspecting a bad connection somewhere. Sidestand switch, sidestand relay and neutral switch cant all be bad because of the power towards the KILL-ECU-INJECTION. wish me luck

Man im sort of running low on patience with my italian. Here is the latest gremlin: @work wanting to ride home for the weekend, motorcycle doesnt want to start. It did start but after stalling (my mistake) i cant get it running again. Bike in neutral, switch on ign can hear the fuel pump but do not hear the starter solenoid when i press the button. Things i checked/tried: - Checked the kill switch, ok. - Lifted the sidestand and checked the switch and connector, no abnormalties. - checked all fuses, ok. - removed the clutch switch to inspect visually, no abnormalties. I left it at work, hoping i can repair it tomorrow. Any advise?????

O yeah i forgot, local body shop abs welded it. I just need to put a sticker on it and make a extra support bracket.