Bjorn

I have been here before and have two options: The first one is very easy to realize and helps to keep the graphite gasket intact and in the right position. Its very thin copper/brass you usually buy in sheets of a specific thickness. Google translates it to brass lamella. Simply cut it in narrow strips and wind it around both sides of the balance-pipe connectors. This ensures you can actually tighten the damn thing properly. I believe i wound it around 3 to 4 times round the pipe (depends on the thickness). Second option involves welding. even though the above works, I just removed the whole thing. I know it does benefit performance (a bit) but i really didnt like the design of the couplings . Just cut the balance pipe off and you are left with a small hole, weld it shut: and finally, a symbolic goodbye...

One more thing about the oil viscosity, i do know that the updated v11 manual specifies a different value than the first/original manual. Need to look it up.

Yeah just like you said, its not very difficult but you just have to start.

I replaced the leaky oil seal this weekend. Thanks to the pictures/method of Andy I saved lots of time by keeping the engine and gearbox in place. The replacement can be done in one day, but is going to be a long one Here's some pictures and short description in case someone wants to tackle this them selfs in the future: 1. I have a centre-stand on my bike but could not use it because the RHS pork chop needs removing. Use something else like this small jack. First remove the rear wheel, bevel box and the swing arm. 2. Remove the pork chops by loosing the bolts on the rear side first (tip from andy). I cleaned the slightly rusted surface of the frame. Not much effort, and coated it with a thin film of grease. 3. Here's the leaky seal. Before you remove it, clean the entire surface around it. You dont want debris getting in the bearing. I used both a awl and and old screw driver ( small tip, sharped it) to first punch a small opening through the steel part of the oilseal. to protect the alu casting I simply bolted a washer to the housing. I never removed a oil seal (this way) before. Ones you get a opening in the old seal, you can use the screw driver to pry it out. Take your time and dont let the screw driver slip, and scratch the inner or outer facing. 4. Before fitting the new seal, make sure everything is clean, both the housing and the seal! I use a little gearbox oil on the seal before i pressed (tap with a hammer) it in place with a large socket. 5. take a look at your new seal, and cross your fingers you dont have to see it in a long time Reassemble in reversed order. Make sure you align your swingarm (search on the forum how to do this). I just rode 100km back home, no drippings. Hope it stays like that for lots of KM's.

Haha - there was some talk of your Guzzi work at our local riders' spot over coffee and breakfast: "What do you think Bjorn will take all to pieces next?" "Maybe he and his brother will make a new frame!" "He could turn it into a Ghezzi-Brian. Those Dutch do things like that." Glad to hear you are riding now!! Lol thanks I like building stuff. There are always things left on 'the list' haha. But for now i want to make some miles.

Mixture wise there was not a whole lot he could do to reduce the dip at this moment. ''Bringing the collector closer to the exhaust ports (like 50-60cm) and making two individual maps for both cylinders could reduce it a bit'' was one of his ideas. But this brings new fabrication issues like the actual placement of the collector. You would need headers with a very tiny radius and locate the collector next or under the engine block. Under the sump doesnt seem practical for a streetbike due to the ground clearance. Locating it next to the engine asks for equal length headers and a relocation of the oil cooler. Dont get me wrong, i like challenges however it takes lots of time to do it right. Time i would (now) rather spend on the road

No the engine is 100% stock, only the exhaust is not original.

final piece of the puzzle: Black is before green is after the tuning. So even with my dB killer im really happy with the power output

Kudo's for your perseverance!

VIdeos Short run: long run: The goal of the session was to fine tune the fuel injection. The old setting was too rich, but not that bad. After making fuel and ignition adjustments and 5 test runs later, the bike runs great. Its smoother and reacts better to the throttle. Fuel consumption should also go down a bit, but I cannot confirm this yet. The ''typical'' 3500-4000 dip is evident, but I accept it. I dont find it annoying and definitely not worth my time and money trying to eliminate it right now (maybe in the future ) . So to make this topic complete; The new exhaust did great, looks great,sounds cool and did not reduce the ''drive-ability''. I cant compare the results with the stock/original exhaust. However after the dyno session, im up around 2 HP and overall a happy camper . Ill post the dyno graph tomorrow.

Yeah the dyno session was great. See my other topic (2-1 exhaust) for more details.

Thanks for the tip andy. Short reaction on the rpms of the shaft drive. Since i had the bike on the dyno anyway, i found it interesting to see the shaft in motion. Since this is something you normally dont see when your on the bike. Spins pretty fast if you ask me

Today I visited the dyno Had a great day, learned a lot more about FI systems. The guy from the shop really knows his stuff and talked me through the entire session. Here some pics for now, the rest of the pictures, videos and details comes later. My giant car

So andy, was it easy to get the old seal out? Did you pry it out with screw drives like you intended? How did the surface of the output-shaft look BTW, no corrosion or anything?

Thanks for sharing andy! ill send you a PM.

speaking for my situation: the oil level is the correct. By cleaning the gearbox and using talcum powder im 100% positive its the output shaft seal. Mine was not ''burning'' but i did found cooked oil stains on the collector similiar to your findings.

Thanks for sharing andy!!! Was it (easy) possible to remove the cover with the engine still in place?

If i could not remove the cover, probably using a hook, old screwdrivers or some parkers. But I have run into some seals where the steel reinforcement ring (usually present in oil seals) remained in the housing, only prying out the plastic bits..... Dont know yet how this particularly seal is build up and if its stuck as a m*otherf*cker or just falls out. But im still leaning towards ''removing the cover'' if that is possible . For tracing the leak, i used talcum (baby) powder. Take it out for a medium long spin and check it regularly!

Looking forward to your findings and pictures andy! But how would you replace the seal without getting the cover off...? pull it out with parker screws or something?

Sounds like you know what your doing andy! Second time you need to replace this part? Mabye you can take some pictures, combine everything in one topic? Note that i have not done this repair before, however looking at the workshop manual it doesnt look like there are lots of parts housed in the cover. ''pulling the gearbox'' sounds scary....

Have you tried this :

I brought the fairing to a local car repair and paint shop. They are going to weld the crack, for €40 im not going to mess around with plastic. Curious how it turns out.

I am not really a fan of those liquid 'wonder fluids'. Maybe it works without any negative side effects, but they remind my of those tellsell commercials The seal is mounted in the rear most cover of the gearbox. The manual shows that all the gears and axels are not mounted into this cover. So i need to find a way to get this cover off the bike. In my head: remove swingarm, pork chops, disconnect the engine/gearbox from the rear mountings, remove the clutch master cylinder, try to lift up the rear end of the frame while placing the engine on (wood) blocks. Hopefully this gives me enough clearance to remove the cover. Time will tell. O and the local guzzi shop has an improved viton version of the seal. Gonna try that.

I need to order parts first, and the dyno session has to go first as well. I wont risk taking it apart right now. My best guess is that it leaks about 5-8 drops per 100km. Guess i ll be whiping it some more until the fix.

My bike tries to keep fighting me for some reason I hope my quantity of technical malfunction topics can go down a bit in the near future Here goes for the latest chapter: Since i got the bike I noticed the underside of the gearbox was always covered in mud and other sh*t. Never paid to much attention to it. During the building of a exhaust i cleaned the engine/gearbox. After a few testrides i noticed the RH side of the gearbox was ''oily'' again. First i suspected the mating surfaces of the gearbox itself, since the appear to be oiltight by means of liquid gaskets. So i cleaned the box again and powdered it with talcum/baby powder. This revealed the oil was coming from the output-shaft-seal. Here you see the output seal where the driveshaft connects to the box: And below the best picture i could take of the oil weeping down from the seal: I like wrenching a lot, but im not to happy with this. The timing sucks because spring is already here. I plan on taking the bike on long trips this summer I do want to fix it before I start my holidays. However, i cant imagine im the only one with this seal ''failing'' since the MG shop sells a improved version of this seal. Since im going to fix it anyways, I might as well share my ''adventure'' I do hope, there is light on the end of this tunnel