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Bjorn

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Everything posted by Bjorn

  1. Bjorn
    You mean this stuff : Its not easy (and not my cup of tea ). I already changed the Fuel map to eliminate the annoying hiccups around 3000 rpm and small throttle openings. Id rather be building a exhaust than fiddeling with FI
  2. Bjorn
    Im aware that power can be gained or lost. And although the GPR system doesnt look bad. I enjoy building stuff myself, and gaining knowledge about it. Im not that old (23) so i dont know shit, but since I started to mess with bikes myself, I did learn a lot of things! From welding to leaning how to machine parts with a lathe or mill. Things I would never have learned by only buying parts (no offense). I made a quick overview of the parts I need and what it will cost: 2x 45mm thin walled-tube with a 90dgr bend (€50) 2x +/- 60mm thin walled-tube with a 90dgr bend (€60) a muffler of choise (+/- €180) Here a two i got my eyes on: 1: 2: part reflection part absorption. able to change inserts for my preference (noise level) And i want the muffler to be more up high compared to the low mounted originals. I want to start soon, spring has arrived Besides after building i need to get the fuel injection part sorted.
  3. Bjorn
    The GPR set-up is the way I want to build it. Im curious about the sound SP838, did you do a sound check? Books/literature are great! Maybe i can find something similar here in Europe. Or somebody has it in a digital form?
  4. Bjorn
    with this, do you mean more grunt from lowdown in the RPM band? Because thats what i use most during my rides. Another benefit of a 2-1 is the fact that i only need one muffler, saving me some money. @Don, I found something on their site. Only one small picture unfortunately 380 B pounds still sounds like a lot of money. I guess I prefer building something myself, hopefully learning something in the process. Thanks for sharing though!
  5. Bjorn
    Hi! I've been having this idea to change the exhaust set-up on my bike for a while now. Looking at a lot of pictures to get some ideas, I think i want to build a 2 in 1 exhaust. I have build some exhausts before but these where more ''form over function'' (i guess ). So before i start building and go through the hassle of dialing everything in, I would like to hear some experiences and feedback on the exhaust setting. Dont get me wrong, i really like the looks of the original mufflers. However i do miss some ''sound'' in the low RPMs, and wont miss the weight of the original set-up. So here what i'm aiming for: Increase ride-ability, especially in the low/mid range. Not looking for max HP here! Deep exhaust tone, NOT racing loud. I use the bike every day. Keep the original headers. from the headers, fab a 2 in 1 piece where the original crossover is located (under the gearbox). go left or right to a aftermarket muffler. Here some examples (who doesnt love pictures of pretty guzzis ) nevermind the header set-up on this last bike. (but gorgeous nevertheless) Things I would like some input on: Dont know what the 2 in 1 will do to the exhaust sound/note? I know there is a lot of black magic involved with exhaustsystems, gasflow, pipe diameter, length, etc. anyone a idea what the difference is between 2-1-2 vs. 2-1? Again, im looking for a nice sound and good ride-ability. Edit: fixed the layout
  6. Bjorn
    Haha, nothing you cant fix with a hammer
  7. Bjorn
    O and last but not least, the needle bearing that started this thread. Here the old and new needle inner bushing, quite a difference huh ill check back in (hopefully) lots of miles later
  8. Bjorn
    Time to wrap this up. I got all my parts together and finished most of it last weekend. I had the swingarm coated black since its covered by the hugger anyways. I bought the swingarm bearing online, way cheaper than the ''official'' guzzi stuff. The part number can be seen in the picture below. In order to protect the coating of the swingarm and other parts from all the debris of the road, I made two aluminum covers. The mounted pictures arent to good, but the idea is clear. And thats it for the ''swingarm chapter''
  9. Bjorn
    Since I got the box of anyway, and the paint wasnt looking very ''crisp'' I decided this was a good time to paint the thing. Sanding was a real pain in the due to all the nooks and crannies. The oil residue wasnt helping either. I bought some 2K primer and paint in a aerosol can. Never used 2k before but so far, im happy with the result. Painted some parts for my other bike as well, since you can only use the paint for a short while after mixing. Time will tell how long it will last.
  10. Bjorn
    Yeah i went to TLM. I was amazed they employed around 4 mechanics, doing only guzzis. I was told they are over 30 years in business, they must be doing something right And a big plus for me is they stock a lot of parts/spares.
  11. Bjorn
    He used the blocks to remove the crownwheel from the carrier. Just by using a nylon hammer.
  12. Bjorn
    Yes I do Thanks to the factory original paint markings hehe. The mechanic also told me the couplings have to be in the same plane. Which is the most important thing when putting the two parts together. He added, you should not put to much grease on the spline bit. Too much grease causes air to get trapped inside, forcing the front part of the shaft towards the gearbox applying unnecessary force. In the meanwhile I bought some decent 2k primer and paint in a aerosol can. Very curious to try it out on the bevelbox.
  13. Bjorn
    Today I visited the largest Guzzi shop in The Netherlands. The mechanics were helpful and allowed me to watch the whole thing After opening the box, the first thing he noticed was the corrosion (what was left of it) at the crown wheel axle. The picture below shows how I found it after opening the box for the first time: I already removed most of the rust at home, but he told me it wasn't good enough. The corrosion had caused pitting on the axle, he sanded/polished everything smooth with the crown wheel mounted in the lathe. This was necessary because it could damage the internal seal and cause leakage. He polished the other side of the axle as well. This side contacts the large seal on the wheel side of the box. Just like Andy, he advised me to replace both the seals. Since I was there anyway, he changed them both. Paying special attention to the smaller seal, due to removing some material of the axle he tightened the spring of the seal to ensure proper contact . Finally he looked into the clearance between the crown and pinion. First thing he did was pressing the crown all the way into the bearing/cover by using a large press. He checked the play of the pinion and the wear of both gears, everything was OK. Finally he reassembled the box and a bit of clearance between crown and pinion could be felt. It doesn't need a whole lot of play, just enough to prevent rapid wear of the gears. The shim was not changed as everything should be ok for a lot of miles Next up: painting the box....
  14. Bjorn
    The big needle bearing and seal below it, look and feel fine. I removed all the rust on top of the crownwheel axel before reassembly. Cant imagen this bearing has moved due to taking her apart. If the guzzi-man highly recommends me to change it, i will. Otherwise it will stay in there. I dont plan to remove the actual pinion. I saw pete's thread. Besides i did not find any dissturbing axial or radial play. I just want to document everything, it might help others someday.
  15. Bjorn
    This is part of the paranoia hehe.
  16. Bjorn
    Haha its what you want to see so butter it is. Yes it all makes sense, no oil etc. im thinking the same way. I hit it pretty hard, and dont want to damage anything. Im not sure if the big bearing between crownwheel and carrier is mounted against a flange or not. Can the bearing shift and force the seal out of the carrier? The drawings dont show enough details. But sometimes the paranoia wins it over common sense... I will take the box to a guzzi specialist next Friday.
  17. Bjorn
    Dont forget there could be some play in other parts (driveshaft couplings etc). But I dont have any play at the moment. I did not forget any parts of left out spacer ''25'' The thickness i have in the box is either 0,9mm or 1,0mm. The parts list shows shims up to 1,2mm. However as Hubert has pointed out, there is also a shim on the pinion. This has also influence on the clearance between the gears. Since i dont have any experience on this subject, at the moment im strongly leaning towards a guzzi garage. ps: thanks for thinking with me everyone!
  18. Bjorn
    Im not a believer of '' if it aint broke dont fix it''. However, not knowing everything does give you a peace of mind (maybe somewhat false ). The video was made with a mobile phone and w/o oil in the box. The sound may sound a bit ''dramatic'' because of this. But nevertheless, a cyclic sound can be heard....
  19. Bjorn
    Dont know if this works, but here is a link to the video: https://picasaweb.google.com/116579552244876924833/Video#5977374150817279106
  20. Bjorn
    I am 100% sure, i left nothing out of the assembly. I just took the crownwheel out of the box. I measured the distance between the crownwheel and the carrier where its mounted in. Took a hammer and gave it a couple of good hits. It did go down 0,5mm compared to the situation after disassembly. I refitted the ring washer and remounted the box. Same result as before. I also made 2 videos where i rotate the pinion etc. Once i figure out how to upload it without the whole google+ cr*p I will put a link down here. since it is still somewhat winter and i have all the parts off the bike, im seriously thinking about visiting the Guzzi garage. Hoping they can shine some light on this and help me out a bit..
  21. Bjorn
    I know The ''hitting the bench method'' did not seem to work. I will find out if the ''hammer method'' yield beter results.
  22. Bjorn
    Sounds plausible. Cant imagen the surface of the gears look like mine after 40.000km of incorrect clearances. I just called TLM in holland. One of the mechanics i spoke to told me the crownwheel may not be seated far enough into the carrier. His sugestion was to disassemble and hit the crownwheel with a rubber hammer to seat it fully into the carrier. as this picture demonstrates: However, i would suspect the assembly of the crownwheel onto the pinion would already force the crownwheel towards the carrier... And I asked him about this ''contact impression check'', he said they only use it after you replace a pinion/crownwheel.
  23. Bjorn
    I did not forget shim ''25''. After cleaning, i measured it at 1,0mm This is exactly what the manual ''tries'' to describe. Only fogetting to describe it measureable.... I do not feel any clearance when i move from left to right rotation. This is why i would like to do a ''contact impression check'' to verify my observations. On the other hand, the crownwheel does not show any signs of pitting, nor does the pinion (see pictures on the previous pages).
  24. Bjorn
    Your tip makes sense. I reassembled the box and hit it on the bench (hard). No feelable difference. There is no backlash between the gears, none. The manual states 0,10-0,15mm however not how or where to Measure this, quite useless. It all annoys me a bit. Maybe everthing is OK at the moment, but without any experience on this I simply cant judge it. Not without measuring it in some way.
  25. Bjorn
    Du bist schnell Good thinking! With the ''first meters'' do you mean, reassemble the bike and ride some? Because im confused by the sentence: Is the big wheel the crown wheel (gear)? To bad i did not pay attention to the ''feeling'' before i took it apart. One last thing i noticed is the removal and fitting of the cover with crownwheel to the box with pinion is quite a snug fit. A rubber hammer (handled with love) was needed to get it together. Cant really see why though, only one O-ring, seal and needle bearing.
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