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Bjorn

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  1. Bjorn
    The swing arm is of to the sandblaster/powdercoater I was wandering if anyone has experience with the prescribed method of reassembling the bevelbox? The manual states something about the ''contact impression check'' between the crownwheel and pinion. Although I understand the purpose of this, I cannot figure out how to do this. The manual states something about a tool to centre the crownwheel. anyone ever tried this? I just put the bevelbox back together, and noticed by turning the pinion by hand, I can ''feel'' the gears interlocking. Although this is a feeling and it is not described in any manual, i thought that it should rotate in such a way that i could not feel this cyclic motion. If i unscrew the 8 bolt by just half a turn, i dont feel it anymore. Can anyone shine some light on this
  2. Bjorn
    The swing arm bearings are out the first one took a bit more time due to figuring it all out. Second one was out in 15 min. Here is how I did it. First I welded the M16 bolt to the inner race. You need to weld it all the way round. First try was with just 3 welds and it broke. I made a bushing with an inner diameter of around 48 mm (bearing =47mm). I drilled a hole in a piece of stock where the bolt goes through. And squared off the top of the bolt in order to fit a wrench. Now you can start to turn the nut down. One thing i learned is you should and lube to the bolt threads! My firt bolt almost seized. And here is our swing arm bearing Now its time to get the swing arm sandblasted and coated.
  3. Bjorn
    Hi Hubert, I did see some nasty pictures somewhere on the forum. However as far as I can remember this phenomenon was usually combined with abnormal axial play of the pinion (if im not mistaken). Please correct me if im wrong on this. In my case I did not observed a lot of axial play, max 0,5mm by eye. Maybe I will put in on the maintenance list of next year . I would need to make a tool in order to remove the big castle nut anyways
  4. Bjorn
    I dont think this is abnormal, since there are no seals on either the left and right side of the axel, water and dirt will eventually reach these uncoated parts. I already cleared most of the rust. As long as the material contacting the seal is unaffected im not really concerned. Ideally you want to coat these parts, but i think this was to expensive...
  5. Bjorn
    O yeah I almost forgot. Curious as i was, i did opened the bevelbox in order to inspect the lot . It did not look to bad. The crown and pinion do not show any signs of abnormal wear (as far as I can judge). The seals looks ok. The pinion does not seem to have a lot of axial play (max 0,5mm bye eye). Just some rust on the exposed parts which i will try to clean up. Since I always find pictures helpful, here are some:
  6. Bjorn
    Haha, sounds like a walk in the park I changed the plan a bit. I bought some high strength M16 bolts (12.9). I will try to weld these onto the inner bearing race and use it as a puller. At work i found a suitable piece of steel which i will mill down in order to act as a support to pull out the bearings. I hope either the bearing comes out (with or without heat) or the inner race will break. In the last case this allows me to weld the outer race and remove it. Pictures of the complete set-up will follow (soon I hope ) ***to a moderator: can u change the title of this topic into ''Rear drive needle bearing and swing arm restoration'' ? Thanks.
  7. Bjorn
    Im not really convinced a inner bearing puller suitable for the 17mm inner dia. Will extract this massive bearing. Since the much smaller needle bearing of the bevelbox did not even budge after using a inner bearing puller (as displayed on page 2). The used spindle can handle around 3 tons according the specs.
  8. Bjorn
    I know it wont be easy. I already ordered the bearings so i will proceed. There is no chance the current bearings will either survive the sandblasting and/or powder coating. Temperatures during the curing proces reach over 200 °C. The stock coating on the swing arm is most likely powder coat as it is thick as h*ll. This is also the reson why it was still "intact" on the surface. However rust was eating away the metal underneath. I bet im not the only one with this corrossion. The only way to remove it seems to be sandblasting. This is why i chose this path, time will tell if it was the right decision The plan i have now for the bearings is to grind out the inner bearing race in order to shrink/weld the outer race. Here is a indication of the present corrosion: Maybe i should revise the title to include the swing arm part?
  9. Bjorn
    I Think i will keep it closed. I already have a massive ''to-do-list'' at the moment. So wont be missing the extra work As a matter of fact, I did service the cush drive. The next major thing is removing the swingarm bearings. Although they are OK, the swingarm shows lots of corrosion (mostly covered under the paint) and needs to be stripped and powder coated. So the bearings need to be removed.
  10. Bjorn
    anyone?
  11. Bjorn
    O yeah, two more things I would like to ask: Halfway into the process I was frustrated and decided to open up the bevel box from the opposite site. No idea why really, I thought it would help. So I removed the 8 bolts in order to remove the cast aluminium plate, however I could not get it off. It felt like it was glued on or something. After this I came up with the welding method and did not bother removing the alu plate anymore. However, at this point I do wonder if its worth opening the bevel box? I have got the thing on the bench anyway, but im not really keen on replacing expensive seals/bearings because i was only curious. Anything worth checking here? (bike has got 40.000 km / 25.000 mile on the clock). Secondly: I was wondering where do debris slipping past the needle bearing end up? could they reach bearings or even enter the bevel box?
  12. Bjorn
    alright time for an UPDATE: I ordered a inner bearing removal tool to help me replacing this bearing. This is used in combination with the ''expanding jaws'' part. This particularly tool has a range of 25-32mm. I never used such a bearing puller before so it was quite careful I tried to insert the puller underneath the bearing. This did not work because there was no room at all. So I tried to use it under the rollercage. I tried with patience, and with force but the bearing did not want to come out. I did see the roller cage moving. I dont think the bearing is easy to remove using this type of tool because you cannot use the jaws behind the entire bearing. I actually damaged the puller a little bit during this process. Nothing significant but the roller cage left markings on the jaws. Before damaging anything I tried a different approach. I pried out the roller cage, leaving only the outer bearing race. I removed all the rust using a dremel tool and tig welded 3 small beads on the inside of the outer race (no filler rod). Due to the welds, the bearing race shrinks and could be removed using the bearing puller. I saw this method on the internet (thank you internet ) and it actually works! Thanks for the tip Pete, for searing a identical bearing without the ''drainage'' hole. I will look into that.
  13. Bjorn
    Yes, replacing the entire bearing (inner and outer race) for a bronze bushing was my thought . But first things first, I need to get this bearing out. I have read this topic a few times, quite handy : http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17881 Since I dont have one, im ordering a decent internal bearing puller. To be continued....
  14. Bjorn
    This is after a thorough washing with petrol and a brush. The whole surface is affected/corroded. Since it is winter and i'm not in a hurry I want to make a bronze bushing to replace the bearing. Checking the swingarm bearing is a good tip, ill look into that.
  15. Bjorn
    This is the inside race of the bearing. You can see and feel the marks where the needle rusted into the steel.
  16. Bjorn
    I did find some old post regarding this subject. It looks quite difficult to get the needle bearing out with a bearing puller..... I know this bearing is not the most critcal, but I do want to replace it. I have to admit im not to keen on dissabling the entrire gearbox to get to the bearing from the inside (and push it outwards). Does anybody know the best methode? I'm a bit worried about taking the gearbox apart due to all the other bearings and seals which are in there, and damaging them. A bronze bussing does seem like a good alternative.
  17. Bjorn
    Hi everybody! I'm new to the forum, I have been reading a lot since i bought my V11 Ballabio this summer. Found lots of very handy info for my new bike. It's winter time here in the Netherlands so im doing some maintenance on the bike. Previous owners did not really give it a lot of ''love'' to say the least. Not all is bad! went over the major things and found nothing shocking so far. Today I took off the rear wheel in order to clean, inspect and lube components such as bearings, U-joint the lot. I found this needle bearing located on the RH side of the rear drive housing. The axle was lubricated however the needle bearing looks shot. Its filled with red corrosion and needs replacement. Below some pictures of this needle bearing: no. 30 = bearing inner race no. 31. = needle bearing I cant really understand why there is no seal to protect this bearing? There is a steel washer mounted between the bearing and the inner surface of the swingarm, i cant imagine this protects the bearing against water and other debris..... Secondly I cant really see the point of this bearing (please feel free to teach me). The axle is not rotating, so why is this bearing here?
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