Gottagetone

Update: New stator arrived last Thursday and it went in just fine. I adapted the regulator connection from the bullet type to the new connection and everything works perfect. Now to find time to get out on the road!

Put the new filter on and used a filter wrench...I must say 1 1/8 turn after contact may happen but snug up then 1 1/8 is tight.

Thanks Roy but it ripped and shredded....not good.

Update, its all back together and the bike started right up and after a few minutes the were no leaks.... I did hear a noise coming from the alternator that I had not previously head then noticed the bright charge light on the dash..... Turns out that i did not secure the wire as you see in the pic above with a zip tie and the rotor got hold of the wire and shredded the connections. I did find a new stator from Electrosport and ordered it as Guzzi wants you to by the whole deal plus a regulator to the tune of about $500... I spoke to a guy on the phone at Electrosport and he is sending along the back side of the clip so I won't have the bullet type connectors that are on there now which should be much better.....Fun! http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/moto-guzzi/v11-sport-naked.html

Thanks Roy!

So it looks like the M1-102 won't work as it has a sticker on the outside of the filter rather than laser print. I considered the K&N 1002 but oped for the trusty Wix 51215.

I may have to make the trek, looks like a great spot.

Found this, can anyone comment on the Guzzi alternatives? http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html Docc recommended the Wix 51215 which worked great but wanted to find a Mobil1 alternative, says the M1 102 will work.?. Both have the same height and the same thread pattern so....

Docc, I just called Harpers and the gasket pictured above is what they sent, I think it was about $28 while the crank shaft gasket was about $6.

Alright, the job is done for the most part. Tomorrow I will change the oil, retape the electircal connections and zip tie them back and reinstall the gas tank and lord willing all will be good to go. I learned a lot and honestly the toughest part, other than the stripped hex screw, was breaking the frame bolts loose and for that I had to use a pipe wrench on my allen wrenches. The leak has been slow from quite some time and when it broke loose it make a mess of the side of my bike. How it happens: Pictured below are the new gaskets, crank seal and timing cover gasket First I suggest using a stand otherwise its just not going to happen. Once on the stand you can start breaking it down, I started with the kick stand and sensor thats attached. From there, if I had to do it all over again, I would have removed the tank which will give you access to all the frame bolts. Remove the frame bolts that attach to the timing cover and the ones directly above then loosen the front frame bolts. This will allow you to somewhat swing all this stuff out of they way. By doing so you may be able to get away without having to remove the horns and all the other bits attached. I did put a jack under the sump with a board in between just for good measure. From there you can really start to get into the meat of things by removing the alternator cover and checking out all the wiring. Once the cover is removed it will look like this: At this point if you have not drained you oil you may consider doing so then you can remove the oil cooler lines and not make a big mess. From there you need to remove the nut holding the rotor, I used a 24mm wrench. As others suggested, put the bike in gear and have someone get on the rear brake, for me it was my son, and the nut will break loose. Once thats removed you will need to remove the three screws holding the stator in. Then you will need to unhook all the wires so you can feed them down and out of the way. The main wire connection is zip tied and taped up to the frame rail shown here already untaped and zip tie cut: : With the center bolt and the three hex head screws removed you will be able to pull the stator out, you may want to have already fed the wire down so its free from snagging on anything. Once the stator is out you can pull the rotor, I put a screw driver behind it and with very little pressure it pulled right off the shaft. Once apart, as suggested in the manual, put the rotor back in the stator and set aside. After that it should look something like this....I do put screw back in their holes so the two you are seeing are ones that hold the stator in: From there you can remove the hex head screws that hold the timing cover in place, I would start with the two that are located basically behind the alternator then on to the others on the outside of the cover. Keep a pan under because oil will come out of the timing cover. I made the mistake of pulling most of the screws then going to bed only to find oil all over the floor this morning. Once all the screws are removed you can push the frame section towards the front of the bike and remove the cover. Once pulled mine looked like this....bad gasket! I cleaned both the block and cover surfaces then took a socket head and knocked out the old crank seal and cleaned up the cover. After that I installed the new crank seal adding just a touch of silicone around the outside of the seal then putting a block over the seal and popping it into place then lined the new gasket up on the block and reinstalled the timing cover. From there you simply reverse the above process and put it all back together. Now as with all jobs well done, I am enjoying a glass of bourbon on the rocks, Blantons to be exact. Ill change the oil and filter tomorrow then reinstall the tank and report back with the results. Hope this helps......Cheers!

Never mind, I figured it out....got to remove two of the top frame bolts and loosen the other two to swing it forward. Timing chain cover is off...the culprit:

Need some help here....I am at a point to where the timing cover is loose and ready to come off but the shaft is in the way. When I pull the cover it comes loose easily but the shaft is to long and to top of the cover hits the frame. I assume the shaft separates there but what to do?

Its that time of year again and Austin is going to be hopping during Moto GP. I have to be out of town part of that week but will be back in town on that Friday so if you are headed this way post up about your plans. If you are headed this way make sure you have plans to hit The Handbuilt Show. If you don't know about it you are in for a treat. https://revivalcycles.com/pages/about-the-handbuilt-motorcycle-show Cheers!

Quick update, got most of it apart but things really slow down when a stubborn allen head strips.... I borrowed an extractor kit from a friend but his, the Snap on Type, would not fit down into the slot as the allen head that stripped was inside the stator cover down in a recessed spot so off to get a new tool and boom, with a bit of work, it came right out. I now have to remove the two frame bolts and the two tricky spot allen heads up near the top of the timing cover. I went ahead and drained the oil first as I am going to change it anyway. I have been taking pics and will post once the job is done.

Thanks gents, after reading and visiting with the guys at Harpers I think I will do as Phil said and not use anything on the gasket. Cheers!

Rotor removal tool? I thought you just removed the nut with a 32mm then pulled the stator? Ill try to take pics, much of the time I get carried away and forget.

Hylomar and Hondabond are basically the same thing, they never totally set up but rather provide a tacky surface to hold your gasket in place...kinda like a post it note. I have copper coat and have used that with success in the past. Parts came in today so its getting close to time to make the repair along with an oil change and prolly gear oil change.

Like Scud said, I use the one that plugs into the Battery Tender wire, works like a champ.

I ordered the crank seal and timing gasket yesterday, not going to worry about the tensioner as the bike only has 8k on the odo....unless its a murphy law thing and its shot when I get in there. Harpers said they install all their gaskets dry, thinking I may give Hondabond a try to hold the gaskets in place, it get solid reviews.

Thebronze, what did you use to clean the alternator?

Looks like I get to give this a go, I just got home and my small leak around the timing cover seal left oil all over the side of my block....not good. As I read this, the procedure is pretty straight forward???

Thanks Roy, the battery does ship with red and black caps installed on to the posts to help with that and the markings are very clear.

Hey Docc, I think I misunderstood your question. The USB plug puts out 2.1a which ensures not overpowering stuff like an iPhone. The battery charger itself is a 12v @ 750ma charger that goes through a 5 step process according to the stats shown here: http://www.batterytender.com/Motorcycle/Battery-Tender-Lithium-Junior.html

Output is 2.1amps max and simply plugs into the same harness that the charger plugs into. I have an extra harness that I could also hook up if I wanted. http://www.batterytender.com/Accessories/USB-Charger-QDC.html