JBBenson

Having fiddled with my Aprilia for a while, one of the weaknesses of the marque of a certain vintage (like mine) is that it melts loom connectors on a regular basis, especially the connectors associated with the alternator and regulator. There are many threads on the "brown connector" on Rotax engined Aprilias. The favorite fix is just eliminating the connectors altogether and splicing the wires right together. Seems that the good folks building the bike never properly soldered the wires into the connectors, and the loose, not-perfect connection overheats under use and melts. Maybe the issue with your 30 amp maxi fuse is similar: the spades don't quite mate with the holder properly, some corrosion builds up, the thing overheats, and the holder melts, all without blowing the fuse, because there is no short, just power flowing over a poor connection. Just a thought. Where do I find the 30 amp maxi fuse on my Sport?

Which hole in the extender mod did you connect the linkage to? Shortest throw or longest?

Received, thanks Chuck. Is the material hot or cold rolled? I am guessing it isn't stainless.. I am asking because I figure it needs some weather protection.....

Looking at the video again, that noise isn't normal......maybe it's time to revisit some of the work you did: Perhaps the valve/rocker adjusters have worked themselves loose? Maybe they were set to the wrong spec when you did them? Maybe the timing chain tensioner etc. was installed improperly? Not doubting your ability, but maybe the obvious answer is the right one after all? I have, a few times, installed things backwards or wrong, or left a bolt loose, and only caught it later when it didn't work, or made horrible noises. Just saying.

Leaks are tricky, they can migrate from where they started. Are you sure its not leaking from the splined shaft in the left of the photo? Is that the shift lever input? I am trying to orient myself. In any case, for anaerobic flange sealing, try Loctite 518.

Ran a second ground from one tach mounting bolt to the other. Seems to have fixed my intermittently bouncing (original Veglia) tachometer. Then I did a 330 mile rounder from L.A. to the desert and back.

Why the loop? The loop keeps the expelled air bubbles from getting sucked back into the cylinder. I bought a bleed bottle that makes it easier, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GA3075-Cable-Bleeder-Bottle/dp/B000W7F2GI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1475763431&sr=1-1&keywords=brake+bleeding+bottle I have tried those reverse bleeders, (like Mity-vac), I could never get them to work properly. So I use the bleeder bottle and squeezing the lever. A lot.

I had a similar problem on the Aprilia: clutch was fine when cold, when warm wouldn't disengage. Keep bleeding, there is old crappy fluid and/air/water in there preventing the clutch from disengaging. Run 1/2 a bottle through it, can't save it once its opened anyway. Alternatively, the clutch line itself is expanding when you pull the lever, leading to the same result.

Sounds like you have a bad ground. Check all grounds to the chassis first before doing anything else.

If you are running the stock crossover, it may be the internals have worked themselves loose and are rattling around. I recall an older thread about a intermittent rattle that drove the owner crazy until he discovered the source in the crossover...

A regular blast out to the desert: Recent trip to SFO:

Pete Roper would be the authority on this I would guess....

I was looking for a used Stelvio, (which uses the same engine as the Norge) but the entire flat tappet fiasco turned me off, so I ended up with a used Aprilia Caponord. If you want a Norge, make sure it is a model year 2013 or newer, or that the seller can prove that the engine was converted to roller tappets. Look for the engine number to determine if it has roller tappets: Stelvio AC : After AC12596 03/12/2012 GRiSO A8 : After 13524 04/12/2012 Norge AA : After 12214 04/18/2012 Rumors are that MG is making a new Stelvio, so maybe I will get one of those whenever it arrives....

I have this: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/sw-motech-evo-cargobag-tail-bag Works well with the passenger seat cowl still on, or remove the cowl if you need a bit more space (or a softer, flatter bottom surface, like if you need to carry a laptop) I ended up using this for the tail, and a Chase Harper 1360BLK tank bag.

Maybe these guys? I have one on my Caponord: http://www.laminarlip.com

I always just lube up the gasket with some oil and turn the filter until it's "good 'n tight" ......then add the hose clamp to keep it there. You are going to do this, right? Sort of like this, keeps the filter from working itself loose:

That's a good question. With my slightly lower clip-ons, and raising the forks a bit in the triples, I think I have done what I could to counter the "ass-heavy" V11. But I really don't know. But, motorcycles are such a dynamic environment, especially front to back, with accelerating and braking forces, much more so than cars, not to mention the rider shifting back and forth.....also, the rider's weight is a factor too, being a much larger percentage of the total weight than with a car. I guess holding a "normal" riding position when measuring....? Let us know what the results are.....in any case, I am sure the red-frame Sports are better at it....

Hyperpro 460. Around 500-550 bucks. Didn't get the external reservoir thingy. I might have gone for a Penske but they were estimating 4 weeks delivery at the time I needed one. MUCH better than the stock Sachs. I had the fork springs done too, (Race Tech) and new valves. Together, they transformed the bike....

Having sorted a finicky V11 Sport, and now sorting a finicky Caponord, I can say that the things that will make you crazy, and possibly leave you stranded, are things like a $1.50 length of vacuum hose, a .99 cent clamp, or a $3.00 relay. So I will carry all of these things with me, forever, like magic talismans.....

Huh. These guys are like 10 minutes from me. Maybe I will stop by and show them my V11 and see what they say.

I don't think there is a gasket in there. Judging from the width of the gasket hanging on the stud, will it create a rim that intrudes into the exhaust flow? I don't see how it will seat in there. I am probably not being helpful. Sorry. Wait, I see a tiny "step" from the rusty ring to the darker, innermost ring. Is that the lip you are trying to get a pick under? If that's the "old gasket", it has a smaller width that the new one, right? It might be that the small "step" crushes the gasket and makes a tight seal. The gasket is a softer material, right? Did you try PB blaster to see if the "old gasket" breaks loose?

I had the same issue, turned out the tach bulb socket had broken loose and was shorting against the metal tach housing......I ended up epoxying it back in.

Yes exactly that. I started going through Docc's check list, the TPS was quite a way out, how do those move? I have a wideband O2 sensor, that's no use for setting the O2 is it? My TPS kept drifting, turned out it was the fuel hose pressing against it ever so slightly, remember that we are talking fractions of a millimeter to throw it out, go to post #15 (bottom of page) by me here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18910&page=1

Anyone here tried this? http://www.g2ergo.com/store/g2-street-tamer-throttle-tube/ j.

"Idles nicely then after 30 or 40 pulses gives a violent pulse that seems to stop the engine in it's tracks, I equate this to firing well before TDC and trying to change direction." I had this EXACT symptom. It DID feel like the engine was almost trying to run backwards, sometimes with a weird clunk or banging sound. It was solved by doing what Docc prescribes above, although I didn't do the CO trim, and we don't have ethanol free gas here, so I used Redline SL-1 fuel system cleaner to get any crud out. I would add: check intake rubbers for cracks, and make sure there are no exhaust leaks. The V11 is weirdly sensitive to exhaust leaks.