JBBenson

I had the same problem, ended up using this, came right out.....remember to soak in PB Blaster first:

Good job. It is super satisfying when you finally find a problem and fix it. It often requires forgetting what you think you know (like it was put together right in the first place) and re-thinking it entirely, forgetting any assumptions. Like you said, now you are really good at removing the transmission. Consider making a new thread about it, with step-by-step instructions, so others (like me) might avoid the usual pitfalls when we are faced with doing it.......please?

Make sure that the issues fotoguzzi mentioned are checked first. Read this first: http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/guzzi/balance.html Here is the quick and dirty method: 1. Start by getting a good multimeter and vacuum meter, either simple manometer or a fancy electronic one. 2. Also get a breakout harness for the throttle position sensor (TPS): http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1621 3. Remove the connecting rod from the RH throttle, hook up the multimeter, and rotate (gently) the TPS until you have a reading of 150Mv. This may take some time, as it is very sensitive. This step is crucial to getting it running right. Once you have the 150Mv correct, hook up the connecting rod and fast idle again. 4. Back off the RH throttle stop. Unless you have some super high mileage bike where everything is worn out and sloppy, using both will make you crazy. 5. Open bleeds one turn each. 6. Hook up your vacuum meter and sync using white knob at idle. Blip the throttle and let settle. Keep doing this. You will never get them perfect, but you can get close. Note: When the throttles are open (>3k) the white knob needs to be moved a lot to make any difference in vacuum. This is because the small adjustments the white knob makes gets lost in the large flow of air coming through, and tiny imbalances in throttle vanes will be hard to see on any kind of meter, even the expensive one I bought. You can turn the white knob and the throttles will appear to be in balance at higher RPM's. But they're not, which you will see when it drops to idle. Then you can use the bleeds to try to even it out, which is what I did, and then it idles worse than ever. In short, the ultra tiny differences in throttle openings will be revealed at idle but will be lost at higher RPM's. If the idle is balanced, then higher RPM's will be balanced too. 7. Adjust idle screw at the LH throttle body if needed to get a smooth idle. Leave RH idle screw backed out so it doesn’t touch anything. You may need to adjust the white knob again as you do this. A good idle can be anywhere between 1000 and 1500 RPM. This is a method that will get you running right, quickly. You can go back in later and fine tune if you want. I am local in L.A. and can help if you get stuck.

Common mod is to fab up a thin (1/8") strip of aluminum to mount all of the relays to, and then mount the assembly to the frame, isolating it with the existing rubber grommets. The idea is to keep the relays from shaking around too much, since they are fixed only at one end. If this doesn't make sense I can take a photo and post it here.

I got a 1157 type LED tail light from here: http://chromeglow.com From the side, it isn't that bright. But from the back, especially when braking, it's pretty bright. The person behind you is the only person that needs to see your brake lights.

I think I found it. First, I checked the tail light assembly, no issues there. No issues with the "city light". Tried the ignition switch, no issues there. Tried to replicate blowing fuse #6 by running the bike and turning left and right, high and low beam, turn signals, on and off switch. Nothing. The tail light flickered once when restarting, the bike chugging and vibrating. Then it stayed lit. Since the tach light was out, I started opening up the back of the instrument housing, when I heard some small tinkling noises, of something falling inside of the instrument itself. The bulb holder had come apart at some point, and the possibly broken bulb had fallen inside. I suspect that the bulb had either broken or the holder had come apart and shorted against the instrument housing. Before I take it apart to find the bulb, anyone have an idea which screws I need to remove to open the tachometer housing? Can I open the tach housing? The silver faceted "posts" seem to be spacers more than anything. Not sure. Thanks in advance for any help. UPDATE: It was the bulb socket that fell apart and shorted. I was able to shake the old bulb out of the hole. Got it all back together now.

The fun never ends!

I have the white faced Veglias.

Try MPH Cycles in Houston, Texas: http://mphcycles.com

Anyone had a sticky trip odometer? In other words, when rolling from 99 to 100 the numerals don't all roll over evenly, but stick halfway? Is it possible to lubricate the trip odometer? Please don't say to replace the clocks. I can't deal with any more upgrades right now. I just want to ride the thing for a while.

Is there a "city light" in my Sport's headlamp? I don't remember seeing one. I do have an "always on" US version headlamp, which has no on/off switch. When I installed the LED bulb, it plugged right in, there was no wiring that needed any modification. I am thinking about why the fuse blew when I revved the engine. The LED draws less power than the stock H4 bulb. I interpret it as maybe this: when revving, the voltage surged, the tail light circuit got more power, the weak local ground couldn't handle it, and the fuse blew. Could this mean the regulator is not working correctly? But I feel I would have more electrical problems if that was the case. I did see when I put the new fuse 6 in, the tachometer light was still out, although the speedo bulb was lit. Like most electrical problems, it feels like a bad ground somewhere. Everything else works fine, so I think the issue is local, i.e. bad ground in the tail light circuit. The dead bulb in the tach is either a coincidence or another bad ground. After checking the tail light wiring around the fender, I think I need to pull the ignition switch and the clocks to see whats up. Thanks for the advice.

Wiring to the tail light is known to get pinched in the fender panels along the rear subframe. Also, the contacts inside the light fixture itself can get weak and bent - usually that just means no (or intermittent) contact, but they're worth looking at. I've see a bad bulb filament blow a fuse, but that's not as likely for you as the pinched wire. Or a frayed wire in the ignition switch. Arg, more dismantling!...OK I will check that, thanks.....

Fuse 6 was blown. I replaced it, started the bike, and at idle, the tailight stayed on. All good. When I revived past 2500 RPM the twilight went out = fuse 6 blew again. Maybe a bad ground in the ignition switch? Anything else?

Silver Red Frame Sports are the "Ur" V11. All others are descendants, and have thus inherited all of the excellent characteristics of the breed. Of course, there are some....er.....quirky qualities, but never mind those. They get lost in the howling.

I have the 4w "city lights" on the Hella driving lights I mounted on my BMW. They are more like "parking lights", NOT a dipped beam, which is the same as "low beam".

Whenever I get new tires I will install the valve stems that Scud recommends. In the meantime, when topping off my tires, I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pressure-Rite-Anti-Air-Loss-Connector/dp/B000FIAVKG I don't have a problem with checking pressure.....my gauge is angled. It can be a little tricky, and sometimes I need to rotate the tire.

I have Mistrals I ordered from Germany that came without baffles. I ordered some at the same time. I do know that some Mistrals come with them permanently in place. The Mistrals without the "DB killers" installed were WAY too loud. Not "cool" loud. Just loud. Especially under trailing throttle I installed the DB killers by making a couple of small holes and bolting them in place. I can always remove them later but I doubt I will. The sound with them is much better: throaty, but civilized.

V7 Tuttoterreno by Guareschi Moto Video:

I hope they bring the Himalayan to the U.S. The real deal, designed to wander the world, not just down to the local BMW dealer for service......

I am going to do this. In the 'Looking at 2000 V11 Sport" thread, you mentioned that the fuel light needs a "special arrangement" What do you mean by this exactly?

Yeah, saw that, I have emailed them waiting for response. I have heard that they may be out of business.

That one-off exhaust looks like a valve-burner for sure. No thanks.

I did a search and found some members discussing oil pressure gauges, but looking for recommends on brand/spec/size/fittings/source etc. etc.? I can do the install but I am sure that some of you had a learning curve that I am trying to avoid.... Any help appreciated.....

Maybe as soon as next week, depending on job stuff. If it would work out, would be great to have company. I was planning on Los Angeles>101N>33N>198W>25N>101N>Burlingame, but the 33 above Maricopa looks a little iffy. I might just do the 101 the entire way, not sure.

And I did just that: Los Angeles 134>210>57>60>10>243>74>111>Indian Wells. Climbed to 6000 in a spirited manner, racing through Idyllwild, where there was still snow on the ground (keeping an eye out for black ice), and then back down to the Coachella Valley floor. I like when the bike is loaded with luggage and is splattered with bugs, brake dust and mud. I especially like to park it next to spotless BMW GS's that are lovingly polished by their proud owners, who are usually wearing spotless "touring" outfits. They look at my filthy Sport and hang their heads in shame. I never had an oil light flicker before the install, but it is good to know I have that extra level of protection against oil starvation. Like the pawl spring fix, It is one less thing to worry about. The more it runs the better it gets. Next up, LA>SFO.