JBBenson

Not sure if it is a regulator or some kind of heat sink, but there is a larger metal finned thing at the base. In any case, having put on 1000 miles or so since the install, now the instruments lights are out, although all idiot lights still work. Maybe coincidence?

Well said. Listen to your Doctor. Having put so much time and energy and money into my Red Frame, I was in danger of making her into a garage queen. I stopped and reminded myself of how sad those over-restored and ultra precious vintage Ferraris are, rotting away in some collection, never started, never driven. They need to be driven, and driven hard. A motorcycle is safe in the garage, but that's not what motorcycles are built for.

Ok, so, let's just say I became aware of this along the way . . . - not the expert by a long shot. I've tried, before, to get *someone* to provide us with a copy of the service bulletin that (purportedly) addresses this triple clamp change . . . *anyone????* Your part number is the same as mine (the later, more "relaxed" geometry). I'm not sure anyone has ever reported the earlier number. JBBenson, what is your build date on the left headstock tag? (your ser# is +233 from my Sport's 3/2000 build) My build date is 4/2000....I wonder how their VIN numbering system works. Is that 233 V11's built in one month, or 233 bikes total for that period? Considering a M-F manufacturing workweek, that makes about 10 bikes a day.

My serial frame is 112874 I found my top triple part number: 501452 I am still confused. Having read all the threads, does this mean I have a "late" part numbered "early" non-canted triple tree? Docc you seem the be the expert on this.....?

Installed a Roper plate with help from Scud. Note to others considering it: NOT a 30 minute job.

Those are cool but they won't ship to the US. I would get a pair, the adjustability is a good feature.

They will work. They come in a few different styles, go to the website and check it out...

Scud saves the day. I was ready to bolt the whole thing back together and try another day. The tapping from the front, toward the rear was a good idea, because it is in line with little metal pipes exiting the sump. It came loose with a couple of taps. Someone had put a lot of red gasket glue everywhere, it was a real mess, and took a while to carefully remove it all with a razor blade. Now its all back together. The resizing of the smaller kickstand mounting bolt was a struggle too. I had to grind a lot of material away, more than I figured. Well, its finally done. The oil light flickered for a few seconds on startup, then it went out. Success. That plate was sitting around too long. Thanks for the tip.

Having followed these directions: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985&page=3 The upper sump is not coming off. The outer sump housing/"ring" is loose, but cannot be removed as there are the two oil feed lines at the front. Is the sump peripheral "ring" and the plumbing one unit? They seem to be 2, connected only by the oil lines exiting at the front. I have removed the 4 bolts holding all of the plumbing but it will not move and I am hesitant to hit it with a rubber mallet. Does the filter have to be installed for the upper sump to be removed? This doesn't really make sense to me, but asking. I have removed mine already. Any advice? j.

Rod and transmission recall still open with NHTSA: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults;jsessionid=m0QwWlFR55hTvWyLX3Rk3YbNj9LnfGlmWCSgyCGTnGb8nJTxDT22!-721696947?prodType=V&searchType=PROD&targetCategory=A&searchCriteria.model=V11+SPORT&stats=112617%7C203065%2C2%2C0%2C2%2C0%2CV11+SPORT&makeStats=&jsonBaseURL=%2Fdownloads%2Ffolders%2F&searchCriteria.model_yr=2000&searchCriteria.make=MOTO+GUZZI&searchCriteria.prod_ids=112617%2C203065

2 years ago I paid 6K for a 2001 Sport with 4700 miles. I paid too much, but common sense left my body when the seller fired it up. I was a goner. The story was that it had been bought new and stored indoors for many years. I believed the story as the bike was impeccable, even the plastic switchgear was perfect. It was essential a brand new 12 year old bike. I dumped another 2K into it: tires, exhaust, fairing, etc etc. I also spend an inordinate amount of time getting it running properly. So I am into it for 8K+. Who cares? I love it, and you can't take it with you.

There is going to be a lot of wrenching at first. Be prepared. But once sorted the V11 Sports are really really great bikes.

One can either call Piaggio on the East coast or go to any MG dealer and they can run the VIN. You can also call Moto International and they can run the VIN, they did for me. The transmission recall is still in effect. It is called "flexible hose" which can be confusing.

Try these: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19102&hl=recall&do=findComment&comment=205152 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14680

That doesn't look fun at all. When in a fast sweeper and I hit a bump my Sport will sometimes give 1 or 2 wiggles and settle immediately. Looking at the film. I wonder if the sitting upright acts as a spoiler and unloads the front wheel, increasing the wobble, and lying down loads it back up by eliminating the spoiler effect and also shifting some weight forward. I didn't see the "lying down" test with any of the faired bikes. I wonder if it would work as well, (or at all), as the naked bikes. Interesting film that shows the need for attention to tire condition and pressure. For sure, weighting the front improves weave (mis)behavior, as does attention to tire condition and pressure. Regarding RedFrames, they are certainly shorter than later (2002 on) long-frames while the fork rake remains the same. Except (reportedly) the earliest RedFrames with the notable triple clamp numbers. LowRyter: look up under your upper triple clamp with a light and find the part number . . . . ? Dropping the triple clamps made my red frame more stable, not less. Well, "sharper"and less vague, if that makes any sense. I would call that more "stable" in the sense of that meaning more "predictable". Certainly not wobbly at all. Have never had any inkling of anything like that seen in the film. I have a early Sport, Build Year 2000, Model Year 2001. But I am 6'1" and have 1.5" lower that stock Woodcraft clip ons that probably puts a little more weight up front. What numbers on the triple clamp are supposed to be the "notable" ones...I have never heard this...?

That doesn't look fun at all. When in a fast sweeper and I hit a bump my Sport will sometimes give 1 or 2 wiggles and settle immediately. Looking at the film. I wonder if the sitting upright acts as a spoiler and unloads the front wheel, increasing the wobble, and lying down loads it back up by eliminating the spoiler effect and also shifting some weight forward. I didn't see the "lying down" test with any of the faired bikes. I wonder if it would work as well, (or at all), as the naked bikes. Interesting film that shows the need for attention to tire condition and pressure.

Aw, shucks . . . I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I'm so, so happy with the way my Sport is running. But it hasn't always been that way and remember well the frustration. At one point, I was considering learning shop-grade cursing in Italian. Seriously, though, marginal battery condition is (IMHO) a source of constant, niggly trouble with these V11. I've been conducting some further investigation on the charging requirements of the AGM battery and it has been a real education. Don't give up on that battery until we can sort out its conditioning. Me too, but it took awhile. I was considering getting rid of the bike. Now I am ashamed of my lack of forza d'animo... Re: charging- Lighten the load on the alternator and go LED front and back....

Looked at mine freezing in the garage and wondered when I will have time to install the Roper plate and change the oil and filter.....

YMMV. I had to take the brass holder off to get my Sport running right. Me too. I think it had too slow of a heat-sink effect, meaning it took too long to heat up and cool down under different conditions, so the ECU was always a little behind in fueling and ignition changes. It ran much better when I put a new, OEM blue plastic holder back in.

Scud, I used the exact same trick. Works great and is progressive, so hard to overflow the reservoir using these.....

Hiccups and stumbling are probably not caused but TB balance or bleed screws, but can be caused by tiny leaks in the exhaust system. I would look downstream: headers tight, exhaust and mufflers all straight and tight. Try loosening them, wiggling and re-tightening. I have had good luck with this to clean the full system: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=60103 And this when parking the bike for a while: http://shop.bellperformance.com/products/ethanol-defense Not sure if you have an Ethanol in your gas in TX, but it does cause issues with crud building up in the TB's, and not letting the TB butterflies fully close. The idle slowly creeping up is one symptom of this....

Open up the gearbox yourself and check it. If the boss is too big and/or the spring too small you can feel it when you compress the pawl spring, it binds up right away on the boss. It is immediately clear why it can break. I ordered the latest larger spring and ground down the boss in my gearbox until the spring compressed cleanly through the entire range of motion with no binding. This doesn't mean mine won't break, but I don't worry anymore, knowing how it works and having modified it to address the issue as best I can.

^This. Remember that the TB's are connected by a rod. Keep them connected, but as you wiggle the TB assembly toward the back of the bike, the rod can get hung up on the mess under the tank. Move both TB's together, as a set....you don't want to torque or bend the connecting rod, even a little bit. Go slowly and get a good light under there while you wiggle away. That sounds really odd when I say it that way.

Bleed screw Idle and white knob