JBBenson

Most important is to see if the bike is subject to a recall: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14680 Mine was, which I discovered after bringing it home. A local dealer fixed it for free but it was a PITA. Otherwise, just see if it is taken care of and assume spending another 1000 to get it well sorted.

I have been using that Bell ethanol stuff. Maybe it works, not sure. In any case, I thought my tank had swelled too, until it dropped into place suddenly when refitting. So, I think it is also a matter of getting the angle just right to get it back on.

Having done it every which way, I would: 1. Back off the RH throttle stop. Unless you have some super high mileage bike where everything is worn out and sloppy, using both will make you crazy. 2. Open bleeds one turn each. ("Micha's method") 1 turn is almost always right. 3. Sync using white knob at idle. Like I said, some frown at this. Guess what? If they are synced at idle, it will be synced off idle. When the throttles are open (>3k) the white knob needs to be moved a lot to make any difference in vacuum. This is because the small adjustments the white knob makes gets lost in the large flow of air coming through, and tiny imbalances in throttle vanes will be hard to see on any kind of meter, even the expensive one I bought. You can turn the white knob and the throttles will appear to be in balance at higher RPM's. But they're not, which you will see when it drops to idle. Then you can use the bleeds to try to even it out, which is what I did, and then it idles worse than ever. In short, the ultra tiny differences in throttle openings will be revealed at idle but will be lost at higher RPM's. If the idle is balanced, then higher RPM's will be balanced too. Try "JB's" method, and sync the throttles at idle using the white knob. Turn 1/8 and blip throttle and let it settle. Keep doing this until it smooths out and is in balance. The idle will probably creep up as it smooths out (you can adjust this later using the LH throttle stop screw). It will never be perfect but you can get it close. Check "off idle" RPM's as you get it smoother, I bet they will be in sync too. Yes, this method is backwards, but since your bike runs like crap right now, why not try it? I went through ever "method" before doing it this way, and now my bike runs like a sewing machine and pulls like a locomotive. The idle is steady at an indicated 1500, with small fluctuations due to ambient temperature, or certain trailing throttle situations, which i think is an ECU issue if anything (I am running modified ECU map). I ended up buying this: http://www.amazon.com/CarbMate-TS-111-Carburetor-injection-synchronizer/dp/B0022XTDQA Guess what, the simple manometer is just as good.

Questions: 1. Does your manometer look like this?: http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp 2. Does it show even vacuum when off idle? Through the RPM range? 3. Are the throttle bodies clean on the intake side? Crud can prevent one butterfly from closing evenly with the other. 4. I assume your 150 mV reading is with the connecting rod disconnected and the fast idle cam backed off (as well as the right hand throttle stop screw)? Check this first! 5. What is the mV reading with everything connected and idling? 6. Open the bleeds 1 full turn each. 7. I think your test with removing the intake rubber and covering it with your hand is confusing the issue. Put everything back on and start again. 8. Are you running the stock ECU map? I hear your frustration. It might be a problem with your manometer and it's connections. I could never get mine to balance perfectly at idle, one cylinder would always pull more air. But once "just off" idle they are perfect. So don't worry about perfection but smooth idling and sync "just off" idle. I used only the white knob for idle balance, even though it is frowned upon. Don't try to balance using the bleeds.

Shop rate here is USD 125/hour. The parts for the recall costs about USD100. So 8 hours at 125/hour is an even 1000 plus parts, so maybe 1250 or after taxes and incidentals...... I know Norway is expensive but I wouldn't pay double unless they have done this EXACT procedure before. Even then I would hesitate. The shop manager also explained to me that they did by by pulling the transmission, not the entire engine. I know they actually did the work because I can see the new sealant between the transmission and the engine, and they chipped some paint while splitting the two..... I might do it myself, if I had to do it again. It's just a motorcycle, not a space shuttle. How hard can it be? But I would take my time and lots of photos while I did it.....!

As of August 2014 the recall was listed as "flexible hose", and the transmission was not named. There was some confusion at ProItalia when I asked them to search the VIN........"which hose is that?" Then they saw that the recall budgeted 8+ hours labor. Then they realized that it was "transmission recall" after all. They did it and it didn't cost me anything. They even picked up my bike.

That looks good. I like the idea of the spring loaded sockets. That's the only issue I have with the Becker stand: you need to tighten it manually while balancing the bike, it can get a little tricky.

In the U.S., the transmission recall is still listed as "active" by the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) website. Not sure if the recall applies to European market bikes. Probably. A local dealer here did the recall work on mine (9 shop hours according to Piaggio!) 11 years after it was issued in 2003. Worth doing as there were reports at the time of the rear wheel locking up at speed. Awkward. So.....get it done.

Here: http://www.epmperf.com/hyperpro-motorcycle-shocks.htm I called and gave them my make, model, riding style and weight when geared up. I spend the extra 10 bucks to get a black spring. Took about a week to get it.

Not an owner in the UK, but I replaced my Sachs with a Hyperpro 460. What a difference. Major. They build them to suit as well. I wanted the simplest shock they had. The V11 is complicated enough to own without having some shock with 150 levels of adjustment.....like I would even notice them. Get rid of the Sachs. You will be glad you did.

I also have a Roper plate sitting here waiting to be installed. I have done so much work on my bike in the past year that I just want to ride it and wring it out before doing anything else. Besides, I have never seen the oil light flicker while riding. Maybe because I ride like a Grandpa. Having read this thread, I will dab some PB Blaster on each bolt of the upper sump before trying to undo them. I have dropped the pan when installing a hose clamp on the filter, and like Czakky I put anti-seize on every single bolt that I remove before reinstalling. I have noticed that some bolts on my V11 come out easily, while the others right next to it are a struggle. Weird.

....what Docc said. When I was tuning mine I did notice that backfiring often blew the rubber boots partially or totally off. Partially off was hard to notice until I looked closely. I would check the rubber boots first, followed by making sure the exhaust is nice and tight all around, then check the disconnected TPS setting. It does run so maybe the valve clearance is OK. Finally dump in some Redline Si-1 fuel system cleaner. Can't hurt. Are you running the stock ECU map? The US stock map made my bike stumble around 3.5K until I had it remapped. Tiny things make the V11 run like shit. Mine drove me crazy for a year. Once it is sorted you will love it even more.

Those black reservoirs look cool. I want some like that. Where did you get them?

Thats Highway 74 looking north toward the Coachella Valley. Part of the Palm Desert Loop: http://ridewithgps.com/routes/254723 I keep the bike out there during the winter, now it's back in LA as it's too hot to ride there until next fall.

I would try in this order: Battery ground Try a new battery Check bullet connectors under the tank on the left front side. (test by turning bars side to side while trying to start) Check relays, relay contacts (see below) Ignition switch, check for good contact

I meant Race Tech. In any case, proper fork springs to match my weight in full gear, and new and better valving. Something like these: http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/full-fork-kit/ Todd @ Guzzitech installed them for me. I probably could have done it myself, but I was already sick of working on the bike, and the forks are a little tricky, so I pulled the forks and dropped them off at Todd's place. I think it was around 500.00 all in, parts and labor.

I had this exact problem. a vague, mushy feeling at the front, I couldn't feel what the front wheel was doing. Sometimes I would run wide, sometimes it felt like it was falling into the turn. I had Raceco fork springs and valves installed to match my weight. The improvement made me angry that I wasted so much time sliding forks up and down in the triple trees, adjusting the compression and rebound, screwing around with tire pressures, etc etc. I was angry I hadn't done it earlier. The stock springs and valves are total shit.

Stucchi crossover + Mistrals. Get the ECU remapped, try Todd @ Guzzitech. Classic combo that never gets old. Make sure you get the Mistrals with the removable DB killers, without them it can be obnoxiously loud. I got mine from: http://www.stein-dinse.biz The Euro is weak now, good time to buy them. j.

This^ I thought mine was "set up" until I had the forks resprung/revalved and installed a new rear shock. All of the handling problems I had been trying to "tune out" disappeared. The stock suspension is pretty bad, especially the forks. Do the front and back suspension first before doing anything else.

OK, I'll bite: Have Todd rebuild the Marzocchis with Raceco springs and valves. He did mine and they are great. Todd also convinced me to NOT buy a used Ohlins, as the rebuild costs etc etc pushes the price higher than it's worth. I ended up buying a simple Hyperpro 460 for the back. BTW, my stock Brembos are fine. Are yours not? Now my bike rides and handles like a new machine. Way better.

I think I found the problem. Turns out, when I did the last “re-tune”, the disconnected TPS was WAY out, around 480 mV. How did this happen? I thought about it: I would set all the variables at the right settings, and the bike would run well but slowly fall “out of tune”, starting with the idle, then progressing to running shitty in general. This has happened several times, leading me to replace parts in a maddening hunt for the problem. But this time, the “way out” TPS got me looking. The hose running off the fuel pressure regulator was rubbing the TPS to the point that the fuel hose was abraded away. Because of the way the hose is bent, I think it was pressing ever so slightly against the TPS, and, as the bike was driven, the vibration and pressure moved the TPS ever so slightly. Since we are talking about fractions of a millimeter here, it wouldn’t have to move it very far to push the engine again out-of-tune. I reset everything to norms after removing and cleaning the TPS: 150mV disconnected, both bleeds out 1 turn, 500mV connected. I then balanced the throttles AGAIN using a new Tec Mate. This time, I balanced at idle using the white knob only. Turns out, when the idle is balanced this way, it is also balanced though the RPM range. It was pretty close to balanced anyway. I lifted the tank and tied up the offending fuel hose so it was no longer touching the TPS. Now the bike seems to idle and run better than ever, even in heavy traffic in the heat. I did replace the head temp sensor with the OEM blue plastic one, but the “way out” TPS has me thinking that the creeping TPS was the issue after all. Sometimes problems have really stupid solutions. Lets see if it lasts. Offending fuel hose and zip tie holding it up:

Maybe, but check the VIN it be sure:

A remote possibility: ....is that your bike was one of the ones that was issued a transmission recall. Check the VIN with your local dealer, they should be able to tell you if it was issued for your bike, and if the work was done. There were a few cases of the transmission locking up due to fracturing of some internal parts. The recall is still honored, I had mine done just last year.