JBBenson

Docc: So, is this the correct cable for a V11Sport (15M?) ECU, without a Lambda?

My 2001 Sport has no Lambda. I don't think I have that option. Servus aus Kalifornien.

Looking at the photo, those clip-ons look viciously low. Does your Ballabio have clip ons? I had to change my clip-ons when I added a fairing, as the stock rise wouldn't let me drop them on the forks, due to a diameter change a few inches below the top triple clamp. My Sport has 54mm forks, the only source for them is Woodcraft: http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?display=home Good luck with it, it does look good. j.

This makes sense. When the idle drops and the engine lugs, there is a smell of unburnt fuel. I will check the airbox sensor too.

Some still-raw nerves there. I hear you. I am starting to feel that way. The ECU was flashed twice by Todd at Guzzitech, I assume via a PC. The bike did run really well when I got it all sorted. But something I did recently is causing some sort of fault. It might be the crap gas we have here in CA, which has up to 15% ethanol, which turns to crystalline sugar with any kind of dry ambient heat. Which we have here in the desert. Or the ECU is a "Monday Model". I am going to revert the head sensor to stock and check the fuel pump, 30 amp fuse, and coil. I am convinced it is electrical or fuel related, or a combination. Almost everything else is new at this point. If it all fails, maybe the ECU is the culprit. I am tempted to trade it in on a new Stelvio. But it needs to run properly first.....

Yes will try cleaning ignition switch. Because everything runs through there? Relays are GEI, mounted to aluminum strip and isolated from vibration with rubber grommets. Spark plug wires at coil....hmmm, I do suspect this is electrical or fuel related, I will check that. Need to check 30 amp fuse. Under seat, right? I have cleaned the bleed screws already but can do again. The brass temperature sensor: This problem really showed up when I installed it after struggling to remove the old crumbly one. I will replace this first to see what happens. It does feel like the ECU is getting the wrong info and changing the mixture suddenly. Its like a switch gets thrown and the idle drops. Maybe the brass sensors are for the V11's with the Lambda sensor, which I don't have. Thanks for the reply.

My uneven idle is back, although now it only drops suddenly without warning, in traffic, or idling in the garage with a cooling fan. It also drops suddenly and more predictably when coming to a stop and/or stopping. Videos here: Steady idle, then sudden drop: http://vid48.photobucket.com/albums/f209/JesseBruceBenson/dropping_idle.mp4 Dropping, with throttle blip, steady idle, then sudden drop: http://vid48.photobucket.com/albums/f209/JesseBruceBenson/throttle_blip.mp4 Consider this: 2001 V11 Sport 6000 total miles. New intake rubbers New fuel filter New air filter Valves at .006" intake and .008" exhaust Fast idle cam not interfering Tightened up exhaust, no popping or surging Upgraded head temperature sensor (all brass model) Cleaned throttle bodies, butterflies. Guzzitech ECU map to match Stucchi crossover and Mistral mufflers. TPS: 150mV disconnected, 525mV connected Throttles in perfect balance at idle and off idle 3500+ RPM The bike runs beautifully, but WILL NOT GODDAMN IDLE. I suspect a fuel pump issue. Any other ideas?

I got this shipped from Europe when they weren't available here: http://www.becker-technik.de/Central-Lifter/body_central-lifter.html I think MG Cycle carries them. Disadvantage: A little clunky to get it on and lift up the bike. The thing sort of clamps onto the nuts on the lower pork chops. A little practice and it takes maybe 30 seconds to get it clamped on. Advantage: Once lifted, the bike is rock solid. You can wrench away without any fear of it slipping off or tipping. The bike and stand are effectively one piece.

Having done intake mods on a few bikes, I wouldn't do it on a V11, the injection system on these are pretty finicky. I think it will never run right without the stock airbox. The potential gains are pretty minimal. I do know there is a mod where you can drill the stock airbox lid with a bunch of holes. That's supposed to work. But a V11 will never be a racer. It's charm is the tractable engine and general sweet balance of all the components. Those are my thoughts, anyway.

1/4 fairing for 8" headlight by Omar: http://www.omarsfiberglass.com I changed the clip-ons to Woodcraft with a 1" rise.

I was about to call AGIP/ENI USA when I saw Fast By Ferracci carry the MG spec'd motor oil, so I ordered 4 liters ($55.00 shipped) from them. They may drop ship from AGIP/ENI directly, not sure.

Not snug fit, but loose. The spring shouldn't bind when flexed. When you have the cover in your hand, you will see what I mean. If your boss is the larger 16mm, you can grind it down. I used a Dremel to get mine just shy of 15mm. Used a grinding stone to get it down and a polishing wheel to smooth it up. I still carry a spare spring. Having changed it once, it is pretty easy, and could be done roadside if necessary, as long as you have the right tools, the most important one being a 5mm "stubby" allen.

Lucky Phil: Where does this upgrade kit come from?

I just bought a real "Roper Plate" from MPH Cycles. I did have to call a few dealers around the country before I found one. I did see the copies online at a UK Guzzi parts supplier, but decided to get an original one, as also support a domestic dealer in Texas. For me, the name "Roper Plate" is synonymous with "Moto Guzzi V11 windage plate". But if you Google the latter, the UK website comes up with the copy for sale.

My 2001 Sport has asymmetric rims/spokes, you couldn't flip them around,

Meaning for the bevel/final drive? Or as an alternate for the transmission?

Spec'd is Agip Rotra SAE 80 W/90, but the Shockproof gear oil is really nice. Don't be put off by the cherry yogurt color.

When you get it all back together, refill with Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil. It will shift like butter.

Mine is a build year 2000/model 2001 and I had the oversize boss. I opened mine up to to find out, ground down the boss to the recommended size (I think from 16 down to 15mm), and replaced the spring with a new one. I wanted to KNOW, and am glad I did. The larger boss does bind the spring, you can feel it when you actuate the spring by hand. After reducing the boss diameter, the parts worked more smoothly together. If it does break, I did what I could, and can replace it in an hour. It is pretty easy to do. I could even do it roadside with the on-board tools I carry, provided I could prop the bike at an angle to save the gear oil. Replacing the Sachs shock with a Hyperpro 460 makes it even easier, as I don't have to work around or remove the shock reservoir.

Thats a good mod. You are lucky to have a bike that has enough clearance for the tip, many bikes (including mine) do not, and require grinding down the tip so it clears the surrounding u-joint and snaps on. Seems there is a lot of variance in Italian u-joint castings......shocker. Another note: make sure the tip is not adjusted to snap on super tight. You will have problems getting it back off, and may snap off the zerk which will make for a bad day. Try it out first on a zerk that is more accessible first to get a good level of fit. I adjusted the tip so it was looser, and then had to hold it on with one hand while pumping with the other. It does work, and when you are done the grease gun tip will come off with just a mild pull.

Good thread here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18602 I felt better hearing the "crack" and getting fresh grease in both u-joints. I am still wiping off the excess that gets flung all over the back wheel after every ride. I guess when I have to stop cleaning, it needs regreasing. My driveshaft has a zerk to grease the splines. I am also sure it would be better to remove the rear wheel to really do the splines right.

I bought my bike with no charcoal canister and the two manifold nipples connected with a short length of vacuum hose. The V11 tuning is all about balance, so when connected, the two manifolds can huff and puff at each other and figure it out on their own....

When I saw the title of this thread, I thought "Oh for chrissakes, now the V11 engine just explodes?" Good to know it doesn't explode. At least, not routinely.

This is neutral. If you arrange the gears in the cover like this, you can slide the transmission forks/gears on their rods until the slots on the cover gears accept the pins on the shifting forks. Play around a little and you will see what I mean. It will only go on when everything is lined up.

Rebuilding the Sachs will cost money too, so consider getting a new shock. I just ditched my old Sachs and installed a Hyperpro 460, which really improved the ride. I wasn't aware how bad the Sachs was until getting rid of it. Now the back matches the front (Raceco fork springs and valves). I used the 460 because I felt I don't need anything more complicated, considering the riding I do, and the fact that the V11 will never be a race bike.