JBBenson

http://www.rebootguzzispares.com

Todd at Guzzitech in CA flashed my V11 Sport, it has run like a top since, try him at: todd@guzzitech.com

There’s a few universal side stands online, would require ordering a couple and experimenting.....

Here are V11 Sport 54mm OEM clip ons mounted above the triple:

The OEM bars are not 7/8", I think they are slightly smaller. I wanted to put the heavy OEM bars into the Woodcraft 54mm clip-ons, but they need a shim and it got too complicated with all the other mods, so went with Woodcraft 7/8" bars and Manic Salamander bar end weights, and filled the Woodcraft bars with lead shot. Not sure where my OEM clip-ons, bars and end weights are, I'll have to look. I also have a photo with the OEM clip-ons mounted above the top triple. I bought the bike that way. Have to look for that too.

Woodcraft has a good selection of clip-ons in all kinds of sizes and rises: https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/category?cid=131&clev=1&hs=1

It arrived. It seems like a Coppa fairing. There are decal artifacts that indicate it had another decal looping under the red one..... Also, the silver paint looks original, the same shade as my '00 Sport. The part number MG 01.57.75.80 doesn't turn up anything, but since OEM parts generally start with "GU", it may be a Stucchi. It is ABS or some kind of thick plastic, not fiberglass. In any case, the headlight opening looks a little small for my Sport and its chrome headlight bezel, but I have to do a proper test fit. I am busy sorting my nearly-new Stelvio, so I'll get to it later......

I almost bought a Tatra 603 when I lived in Germany. But the export became problematic, as the older Tatras were considered "cultural artifacts". The country was being looted after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Air cooled 3.5L V-8, with an interesting temperature controlled vacuum actuated system of vanes to direct air for cooling as needed. Also an insane Rube-Goldberg linkage from column shifter all the way back to the transmission at the back. Eerily quiet at speed, as all the engine noise disappears in the slipstream and all you really hear is mild wind noise.

Omars Dirt Track racing 1/4 for 8" headlight: https://www.omarsfiberglass.com/fairings I've since converted to handlebars. The Omars fairing requires different clip-ons, I got some from Woodcraft with 2" rise

I have the SW Motech tailbag which works nicely on the seat cowl:

I had to strip a black painted triple clamp when I converted to handlebars. Pull the triple and strip the paint, starting with a chemical stripper, then using a gentle blast media. I had a friend do it who has a blast cabinet. Polish it, then clear coat. Before and after:

I bought a few tank bags for my '00 Sport with the chin pad, including the stupid ring system that SW Motech uses. Lame. Ended up with a Cortech 2.0 low profile that straps on and looks good too.

Chucks Scura pic is helpful, can really see how the thing connects. I couldn't imagine it until I saw it. So, requires longer pinch bolts. Docc's photo is also good, seeing how the top flanges bolt to the existing windshield holes. Hmm. Docc, how long are the brackets actually? The reach between the "tube" and the "flange"? I guess I need to get the thing here to have a look-see....

I have been looking for an original V11 Sport-Type fairing for a while, excited I finally have one in good condition. If any of you have a clear photo of your brackets holding the fairing (of any V11 model other than the LeMans) I would appreciate it. AF1 Racing can get the brackets, part #'s GU01578640 and GU01577540 but I would like to see how they actually fit. Otherwise, I can always find some cool stainless turnbuckles or something to give some support.

I'll take it, PM sent. jessebenson(at)mac(dot)com

I used to think the factory forks and rear shock were fine too, until I got a new suspension. The stock Sachs tends to crack at the eyelet, which, if it cracks and breaks at speed, would be a very bad day. Aside from that, it's still a shitty shock. The fork springs are, unless you weight 120 pounds, way too soft and tend to dive and bottom out. They are terrible.

What Docc said. Spend money on new springs and valves up front, (Todd at Guzzitech did mine) get a longer shock for the back, maybe 10mm longer than stock (my stock was 278 so I got a 290 with +-5mm) and get an adjustable one: Hyperpro, Penske etc. Raise the fork tubes a bit above the top triple, start with 5mm. Also, contrary to conventional wisdom, put a 170 on the back. Many suggest dropping to a 160 but I found after new suspension front and back that the 170 settled everything nicely.

There’s a DOT stamp with a 4 digit code on every tire, the first 2 numbers are the week, the second 2 are the year, so 3716 would be 37th week of 2016. I bought a bike with Shinkos that were delaminating halfway through their life. No more Shinkos for me. Forget loose covers, get a Bikeshield, the junior size fits the V11.

Depending on the model of V11, most of us have made a custom bent nozzle (usually with some material on the tip ground off to make it narrower/smaller) that will do the trick, with the swingarm and wheel in place. I think I removed the rear shock to drop the rear wheel as far as possible, but I'm not sure. Maybe just used my shop stand. Be careful that the zerk fitting isn't set too tight, as it could break off the zerk nipple when removing, as pulling it straight off might be difficult). That would be a bad day in the garage. Better to keep it loose and hold it in place when pumping the grease trigger.

The yellow wires form the RR? I put in a new one before mine quit. But the connectors were grungy. Question is why yours overheated and fused. Possibly bad ground(s), weak or dying battery (I have found that batteries have been of poorer quality in the last 10 years) or failing RR. If you discover the source, might be a good note for one of the checklists.....

I think it’s tank suck. The symptoms are almost perfect. Remove the charcoal canister and make sure the tank has clear breather and overflow nipples (might want to run a small drill bit through by hand) and associated rubber drain lines.

Adjustment is personal taste, as long as turning doesn't affect throttle you are OK. The V11 needs more throttle/clutch feathering, while driving, than a lot of other bikes, so get used to doing that, and not using throttle only, especially at lower speeds, like some smoother machines. It's a big heavy lump with a lot of drivetrain lash, so smooth driving is key.

Sudden dying usually sidestand switch. Good running interrupted by intermittent weirdness is usually a bad battery or ground, or both. Most of my electrical issues stopped when I conditioned the battery properly, (see Docc’s link above) with a proper charger and a new Odyssey battery.

I have the Becker, it’s pretty good, can be used with or without the wheels. The way it clamps onto the porkchops is nice for when you are really wrenching: no chance of it slipping off. They don’t ship to the US, last I checked, so I had it shipped to family in Austria then they shipped it to me in Los Angeles.

I'll just leave this here, written about Alfas, but applies to all Italian machines.... The Italian Tune-Up is No Myth, (from Pat Braden's Alfa Bible): "You’ve sunk your next five years’ paychecks into this sweet Italian beauty and you’re not going to abuse it, by golly. You shift at 2500 rpm and never go over 70 mph. To prove your point, the car needs tuning so often now that if you really put your foot into it you’re sure something would explode. That’s Italian cars for you. Somewhere, right now in Italy, someone’s driving exactly the same car as yours. His right foot is pressed firmly to the floor, where it has been for the last three hours. The rubber on the brake pedal shows no perceptible wear. The speedometer and tachometer are both trying to bury themselves offscale. His arms are weary from cranking the wheel back and forth as he negotiates the mountain roads. His eyes gleam and his heart is glad for he has never once had cause to do more than regular maintenance to his thoroughbred of a car that has uncounted kilometers on its engine. He’s right and you’re wrong!"