JBBenson

I could never get the Givi tank lock system to work with the chin pad on my Sport, (without major modifications) so after experimenting with a couple of others, I went with the strap-mount version of this: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/cortech-super-20-low-profile-tank-bag Its perfect to hold small stuff for day trips, and fits nicely and looks like part of the bike, and not a floating blob on top of the tank. I do use the SW-Motech tail bag, works well with the seat cowl: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/sw-motech-evo-cargobag-tail-bag

Yep, repealing Prop 13 is on the agenda. When I suggest that possibility, people are horrified. But there have been so many horrifying ideas coming out of Sacramento in the last few years, it only makes sense that Prop 13 is next. I'm planning on getting out while the gettings still good.

The simplest way: Depending on which side you are working on, if the "D" or the "S" is visible through the port, and both lifters spin, the valves are closed and you can adjust. No "watching the valves" is necessary. Removing the park plugs will make the rotating a little easier....

I imagine that there is a certain amount of lash in the cam, lifters, rockers etc. that might throw off the valve clearance measurements if you turn the motor backwards. That’s the thinking.

The engine turns clockwise when looking at the front of the bike toward the rear..... I always make sure both lifters spin freely to confirm TDC on compression stroke.

I have the Becker stand, which clamps to the pork chop nuts. Having done it both ways, turning the engine using the alternator nut gives me a little more fine control to find the flywheel marks. I just don't remember which way it turns.....

Going to do the valves after a long interval. Using the alternator nut to manually turn it to find TDC, compression stroke. Anyone remember which way the engine rotates when running?

TPS @150mV with: 1. Throttle adjustment screws backed off? 2. Choke/fast idle cable disconnected? 3. Throttle connecting rod disconnected? Double check. Your symptoms sound like classic TPS out-of-whack issues.

I just ordered a set from here: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12?qs=0NRgW0qSE97vygR8bw91hg%3D%3D

If you bought Tim's bike, you got a good one. It's been well sorted. Enjoy.

Stock Sachs on the V11 Sport is 278mm center of eyelet to center of eyelet. I replaced it with a Hyperpro 460 adjustable @ 290mm with +/- 5mm.

Yeah I remember Docc tearing hair out over it until he tested the TPS. I tore my hair out until I discovered the fuel return hose nudging the TPS ever-so-slowly out of spec. Over and over. That being said, my bike, although running sweetly as ever, does occasionally hiccup....just once.....usually at idle. I always freeze......oh shit...!.....then relax when it disappears and so I take off.

This makes perfect sense, actually. Why would you want to add air to the mixture at idle without fuel? I'll try setting it to 1 turn on both ABS's and then balance it using the white knob (and my CarbTune). Question: if this is really the case, what are the air bleed screws for anyway then? For the same reason men have nipples. Kidding. Probably a hold over from carburetor days, and see below. The long answer is that the ECU has two "maps": one at idle, and one off-idle. The idle map assumes the vanes are closed, and adjusts mixture with this assumption, and the mixture needs some air in it, thus the air bleed screws. The short answer is: because, as Micha says, one turn is almost always right.

It's the sugar in the gas in CA. If your girl is sitting a while, add some FI cleaner, warm the engine carefully and proceed to Italian Tune-Up.

+1 on white knob balance method using manometer or other vacuum instrument.... Having done it every which way, I would: 1. Back off the RH throttle stop. Unless you have some super high mileage bike where everything is worn out and sloppy, using both will make you crazy. 2. Open bleeds one turn each. ("Micha's method") 1 turn is almost always right. Make sure the screws and ports are nice and clean. 3. Sync using white knob at idle. Like I said, some frown at this. Guess what? If they are synced at idle, it will be synced off idle. When the throttles are open (>3k) the white knob needs to be moved a lot to make any difference in vacuum. This is because the small adjustments the white knob makes gets lost in the large flow of air coming through, and tiny imbalances in throttle vanes will be hard to see on any kind of meter, even the expensive one I bought. You can turn the white knob and the throttles will appear to be in balance at higher RPM's. But they're not, which you will see when it drops to idle. Then you can use the bleeds to try to even it out, which is what I did, and then it idles worse than ever. In short, the ultra tiny differences in throttle openings will be revealed at idle but will be lost at higher RPM's. If the idle is balanced, then higher RPM's will be balanced too. Try "JB's" method, and sync the throttles at idle using the white knob. Turn 1/8 and blip throttle and let it settle. Keep doing this until it smooths out and is in balance. The idle will probably creep up as it smooths out (you can adjust this later using the LH throttle stop screw). It will never be perfect but you can get it close. Check "off idle" RPM's as you get it smoother, I bet they will be in sync too. Yes, this method is backwards, but since your bike runs like crap right now, why not try it? I went through ever "method" before doing it this way, and now my bike runs like a sewing machine and pulls like a locomotive. If your bike still sneezes, then it's something else. But basics first.

Check for exhaust leaks too. They can cause symptoms like this, especially at idle.

I got a Hyperpro 460 that was 12mm longer than standard at 290mm (178mm is standard), with an adjuster that gave me +/- 5mm.

I dropped the triples about 10mm including the cap. then I raised the back about 12mm (effectively doubled by the swingarm) so about 1" total. I never considered the profile of tires in handling until I looked at mine closely, and the Contimotion has a very pointy profile in front, which I think makes it feel like the front is "searching" for the right lean angle in a turn, as the "point" breaks suddenly into the "slope" part of the tire, if this makes any sense. On lower speed turns, I often have to apply pressure to the inside bar to keep it from flopping in. When really moving I don't have this problem. One solution is to apply throttle at all times. Not very practical. I understand tires are....ahem....highly subjective. But since you also have a Sport, and the Pirellis tend toward rounder profiles, I might try a set.

I though the same way....until I did it. While it is counterintuitive, the mods I have made have made the bike less vague and more planted. I don't suffer from high speed weave....in fact, the steering is very stable at high speeds, better than ever. The vagueness is gone. Now its time to slow it down a little bit and reduce tippiness. I feel that the tire profiles (flat-topped 160 on back, pointy 120 in front) are an issue. Time for new rubber anyway, so thought I would ask around. Thanks for the input.

Getting new tires for the Sport. Having raised the back and dropped the front, the Sport is handling better than ever. In an attempt to slow down the steering a little (I prefer using more muscle), I am going back to a 170 on the rear. The Conti Motion I have on the front has a very "pointy" profile which also makes it feel "tippy", especially on lower speed turns. So, whats the verdict on tires for 2018? The internet tells me that "Dunlop's and Bridgetones tend to have stiff sidewalls and pointy profiles, while Metzelers and Pirellis lean towards very soft sidewalls and very round profiles." Also, whats the opinion on balance beads? Anyone want to chime in?

I can get a new Stucchi one (unpainted) from LGC in Italy, but it's 350 Euro shipped. Thats 430 bucks as of today....! Ouch. Was hoping to find a good used one.

Looking to convert my Sport to handlebars, but would like an original or Givi Sport fairing. Can paint, but if it's already silver even better. Got one?

PMed you

Took the Guzzi out for a romp, just got back. Some dude in a brand new white Ferrari California Coupe slowed down on the 170 when he saw me and gave me a thumbs up. We played a little Do-Si-Do for a few miles....hehe