chamberlin

Well, here are some photos of the 'wannabe' Café Sport as it sits.... waiting for gas and some new reservoirs.

Of course, now that the bike is ready for gas and first start-up, another issue has arisen...this time of my own doing. I (thankfully) found this problem before it became a potentially "deadly event". Bottom line, do not buy crappy Chinese knockoff reservoirs....ever. The bike's been sitting for weeks now with the new brake and clutch reservoirs. After I got done installing the wheel, I looked up and saw that the front brake reservoir hose had broken free. Puzzled, I removed the reservoir and the problem became clear....a mushy black plastic mess. Apparently the plastic they use for the hose connection nipples is not compatible with DOT4!!!! Unbelievable. Pulled the clutch reservoir, and of course the same thing on that one too. Back to the drawing board for reservoirs. The pictures tell the tale:

Wheel is on!

I just received a brand new Moto Guzzi OEM carbon fiber front fender, and this one's made for the Ohlins equipped bikes (Scura, Rosso Corsa, Nero Corsa, Cafe Sport, Coppa Italia, Scura R). You can compare against the "Marzocchi Mount" CF fender. The primary difference is that the Ohlins mounted fender only has a single front mounting hole per side, whereas the Marzocchi has two front mount holes per side. There are also subtle shape and contour differences as well, such as the fork tube relief cutout on the Ohlins.

Thanks Phil! Hopefully this stuff will be helpful to some Guzzi guys. Here is another shot, showing the freshly removed 25x52x15 bearing, the '03+ hollow axle, the spacer used on the hollow axles, and the associated hardware.

Yea Ken, it looks like the new bearing I received from Harpers was Japanese (Koyo). I looked up the '99-'01 manual as well as the '01 - '02 manual, and those solid axle models also use two different bearings, the same 20x52x15 and 25x52x15 bearings as I am now using on my Ohlins setup. So it seems that only the newer '03+ hollow axle bikes have a matching pair of front wheel bearings (25x52x15).

The front wheel bearing sizes will depend on which fork set/axle you have on your bike. I've just converted from '03+ Marzocchis (hollow axle) to Ohlins (solid axle). The hollow axle requires two 25x52x15 bearings (SKF were on my bike from the factory). The solid axle from the Ohlins requires one 25x52x15 and one 20x52x15. I just got that bearing ($43!) and the appropriate spacers for my conversion. I have some pics posted here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&page=12 I'll look up the bearing specs for the older Marzocchi bikes later and post here for completeness. Even though these are extremely common bearing sizes, I wouldn't recommend using a $10 Chinese spinner for this application. Granted, I probably paid a little too much for mine, but I feel better that it's a quality part.

Phil, take a look at the lower left corner of the shop manual drawing, this inset is the Rosso Corsa/Ohlins setup that I am now dealing with.

Phil, see for yourself: Note that the Ohlins equipped bike is the "RC-T5" under the version column. Note also that there is only qty. (1) bearing of the part #12, 20x52x15. The other bearing used is a normal #2 part, 25x52x15. I'll see if I can take another pic for you of the axle installed (minus the 25mm bearing which is still installed in my wheel).

Bearing and spacers arrived! Now just waiting to get a blind bearing puller and bearing installer...I need a pilot bearing puller for my Jeep clutch job coming up soon (exploded throwout bearing), so I guess I'll just order a whole set of pullers. Took some experimentation to figure out the arrangements of these parts, but after looking at the parts drawing really hard again, I think I've got it. It's somewhat odd, in that you need to use a 25mm ID bearing on one side of the wheel, and a 20mm ID bearing on the other...but the real trick is getting the order of the spacers right...this slides over that, in-between that bearing, and that raised shoulder etc. etc... p.s. I wanted to mention that I got the parts below from Harper's Moto Guzzi. I've dealt with about 35 different suppliers during the course of this build so far, and as far as USA domestic outlets go, I've had truly outstanding service from Harper's. They get parts shipped from Italy, and then ship to me in crazy record time. They call if there is even the slightest question on anything, and are quite friendly too. Honestly, I haven't had a single *bad* transaction (thankfully), and all my suppliers have been great... but Harper's is a 'stand out' in my mind.

Haha, if I ever started a local Guzzi riding club, I was going to call it "Arizona Knee Heaters"...but in all honesty, I've never really felt much heat from that area, at least on my Norge. My water cooled Aprilia Tuono on the other hand, would melt your kneecaps when those radiator fans kicked on.

Time for an oil change and Roper plate install! I was going to wait until the bike was running, but I figure after sitting for 6 months straight, most of the oil is in the pan, or at least most of the heavy/dirty stuff. With the lower sump off, there are some interesting findings. Some gummy pieces were trapped on the screens of the pickup filter (not visible in this shot) After removing the sump adapter ring, I realized what the gummy stuff was - some sort of thread locking compound. It was only on the interior bolts that hold on the sump adapter and the oil regulation gear. The residual gummy stuff was a dark amber goo that was applied fairly sloppily, and bits and pieces of it were in the sump, and splattered around the sump walls. The bolt's washers were stuck in place too. I am guessing this was a factory job, as I don't believe the adapter ring had ever been removed before since built. Interesting finding #2. I think the photos speak for themselves. Also, the damn filter was screwed on so tight, I had to remove the copper cross-over tube and crush the old filter in a vice and turn the whole oiler manifold by hand to break it free. WTF! If the problem wasn't obvious in the above photo, here is a close up of the 'extra' oil gasket, obviously left over from a careless oil change: I've seen cleaner crank cases, but this one's not too bad....no metal chunks lying about thankfully! Lower sump pan and oil adapter ring all cleaned up and ready for Mr. Roper's plate! I removed the drain plug and the extra large plug for cleaning, but does anybody know what the second large fitting hole is for? Just in case the first gets buggered? Optional secondary oil cooler line??? All the parts ready to go! New stainless steel hardware for the lower sump (installed with copper paste), blue Locktite for the inner bolts (adapter ring and oil works), extra gaskets, Roper Plate, new oil filter with anti-loose worm-gear clamp mod: Plate installed! No need to superman torque the oil filter now, it ain't going anywhere: The now famous "Roper Line" is clearly visible: Stainless steel lower sump bolts: Tank installed with new fuel pump assembly. Seat and tank protector too! Had to Dremel the kickstand mounting hole of course, and I also fully cleaned the kickstand up and re-installed. Key in, and everything lights up, fuel pump primes, motor turns over. Gas gauge light works (empty tank). We're all good to go for front wheel and *pure* gasoline! Some questions: 1) I filled up the sump with a gallon of Motul 3000 4T 20W50 mineral oil...that's 3.78 liters. People here said that 4 liters is the magic number. However, the oil right now is way past the full mark (by almost double). Of course, the oil filter is dry, the oil regulation system is virtually dry, and the bike is not level or on its kickstand. So, I will of course re-check the oil level when the bike is running and on the ground. I know there's the 'all the way in' dipstick test, and the 'just the threads touching method', but regardless, I assume these methods require the bike to be on the kickstand? Is it ok if I turn the motor over for a few seconds (no gas) with the starter motor to help prime the oil lines and oil galley-ways? Note: I've already turned it over a couple times to check the electrics, but not extended engagements. How much priming happens on these motors at low speed rotation? I assume it's a positive displacement oil pump - so good oil priming with just the starter motor? 2) When I receive the bearing and spacers for the front wheel assembly, will there be any special lubrication needed? I assume the bearings themselves are sealed and don't need outside grease, but what about the axle in general? I've also heard of people over-tightening the Ohlins axle and causing problems? Any Ohlins related axle advice is appreciated.

Yes, they are most definitely primed, painted, and clear coated just like any normal automotive part. The base color of the PA-6 plastic is a milky opaque white, and the plastic is not tinted whatsoever (although it can be, there is no need to in this application).

You are correct Docc, I definitely can confirm that the Acerbis tanks are made from PA6 (Nylon 6)....They aren't likely rotomolded however (like the RotoPax tanks I have on my Jeep), since Acerbis didn't start rotomolding until sometime in 2007. The process used to make the V11 tanks is most likely 'double shot' molding. To mspa, please let me know if you get a bike and need parts for it. I've been restoring a V11, and now have a very refined methodology for looking up parts and finding them anywhere in the world!

That sounds like a helluva way to go....and if he has all the parts needed, it will be setup just for you and your bike, no questions. Good luck! Joe

There not two piece like the early Sports? Nope, don't think so Docc, I've never seen a two-piece carbon fender for any of the Guzzi or Aprilia bikes. All the plastic fenders are two piece regardless of early or later Sports aren't they Docc?

Gheezh! Why didn't I think of that! Thanks Jaap! I used to have a decked out '03 Tuono, and was very familiar with the RSV 1000 Mille's as well (also are non-radial brakes). The other nice thing about the Aprilia part, is that you don't have to remove the damn wheel to get the fender on/off, like on the Guzzi. But I did find an actual Moto Guzzi carbon fender by chance, and since my wheel is still off, I am probably going to try to get the MG part first. Thanks again for the options!

Yup indeed, that's the same outfit I got mine from. Unfortunately, I've now purchased Ohlins suspension, which requires a different front carbon fender! I'll need to make a bracket or something. Photos of my pieces are here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&page=9

I just got the new carbon fiber kit as well. Check out the link below. I know these aren't the special edition decals, but maybe they will suffice for your RM nonetheless. This is my buddy Denis in Italy. I've gotten thousands of dollars worth of V11 parts from him. Shipping will be about 2 weeks+ but these are brand new late style decals (metal). http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261516526146&alt=web

Oh yea that's right Simon! Back in April, I remember. That thread has gotten obnoxiously long...but im glad I have it as a build testimony and archive. Even though the Ohlins rear shock is not in collector grade condition, it's still nice to no longer worry about the eyelet on the Sachs fracturing on a mountain run!

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/mcy/4547063140.html One just like mine, on Craigs and Ebay: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/4551782973.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/171381388111 http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/mcy/4556494413.html http://nh.craigslist.org/mcy/4542310635.html http://rochester.craigslist.org/mcy/4492020098.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/mcy/4555490635.html

@footgoose: I am really excited to build the garage system for the group, and I've even offered to pay the fee for the plugin... I just need to talk more to Jaap about getting access to the 'guts' of the forum to set up, validate, configure and maintain the garage system. I like having the separate registries too, for photos and chit chat, but there are certain bike types that are currently left out (Sport Naked for example), and I'd really like a true registry system, so that we can all keep in touch better, research production numbers, and have a way to catalog certain features specific to the V11 Sport series. That said, congrats on acquiring the Tenni Bobby, and welcome to the group. I don't think there is a more informative and helpful & informational forum for the V11 out there on the web. P.s. It's nice and cozy here too.

hahaha thanks Kosta- one broke-ass animal that's for sure! BTW, the necessary spacers and bearing are ordered and should be here in 10 days or so....'nuther $100, but at least the parts are still available. I bought a really nice SKF OEM bearing, and not some cheap Chinese roller.

Today's work...which of course, leads to more items to purchase.... The Ohlins forks are now installed; they slid right in without problem. Pretty sad pulling out freshly rebuilt Marzocchis for unknown Ohlins! My favorite view, now including a splash of anodized aqua. Hopefully one day, I'll get a chance to see some road from this perch, instead of garage. Of note: the second new ignition switch has been installed, as well as the seat release lock and fuel filler. The whole bike is now on one key again! Now, here are my latest two dilemmas: Indeed, I will need to order one 20x52x15 bearing and the proper spacer for this new axle. One of the original 25x52x15 bearings will be retained. Anyways, I can find 20x52x15 bearings all day long, but the proper spacer is a different story. I might have to ask TLM to sell me the spacer out of the wheel from the Rosso Corsa that these golden legs came from. The Rosso Corsa parts diagram .pdf is actually very good overall, but there is still enough ambiguity on the exploded wheel/axle drawing that I'm still confused as to what parts belong to which model. They list what appears to be two different Rosso Corsas (RC)? It shows parts for RC-T5 and RC-T6... any ideas what these model designators represent? Page 47 of the Rosso Corsa/Le Mans/Sport Naked parts manual. The second dilemma, is that due to a glaring over-site on my part, my new OEM Guzzi carbon fiber front fender will not properly bolt up to the Ohlins! Apparently there is a special carbon fender for the Ohlins equipped bikes, but unfortunately, I have the fender for the standard Marzocchi forks. Yay! Time to make an adapter bracket. There's always something. Rear Ohlins shock installed. No problems here other than the buggered adjusting rings and some missing zinc plating...galvanic corrosion at its finest, just add salt water. Just as a side note: the reservoir bracket for the Sachs is the exact same for the Ohlins...I used my original bracket, as it was in much better shape than the one that came with the Ohlins rear. Also, the feeder hose on the Ohlins is about twice the diameter of the Sachs-Boge line. All buttoned back up, and with rear fender installed. It was expensive as hell, but I am really glad I found that fender...I didn't really want to run the rear without something back there. How many carbon fiber pieces can you spot in the photo?