chamberlin

Great stuff Camn, nice research. Im guessing the USA specific part numbers are related to the lens pattern/beam shaping aspect of the glass.

Here you go: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/4719949079.html Futura's are nice too, my buddy just completely repainted his BMW Carbon Black Metallic...came out great. I'm actually taking delivery of a V990 powered machine right now! Tuono delivery is here!

Yea, that is really interesting... they really took "Scura" to heart!

2003 (true '03 model) Sport naked also has metal bucket. Not sure about any others. Interesting on the plastic ones.

Hmmm? That's an odd color combo: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/4731172077.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/4725337780.html Make offer! http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mcy/4724912380.html http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/mcy/4671209565.html Coppa Italia! No Pics! WTF! http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/4696208146.html http://glensfalls.craigslist.org/mcy/4681504220.html http://nh.craigslist.org/mcy/4685625919.html

Here is a local bike to me if anyone wants me to go over and check it out. Seems like a pretty nice greenie: http://tucson.craigslist.org/mcy/4730240244.html

Wow that oem carbon fiber chin piece went for $400 on ebay. Too bad there isn't any Chinese knockoff CF pieces available for Moto Guzzi like there is for Aprilia bikes.

I have some good news and bad news for you my friend. I will send you a PM now.

I will keep my eyes open for you. BTW, are you planning to acquire one perfect exampke of each V11?

P.s. I see now, that you have a Tenni, which will have the external fuel pump...and you are in Saudi! I am still voting for vapor lock to be the issue!

You didn't state what generation of bike you have. Could this be the old style (external) fuel pump vapor locking due to engine heat? The '03+ model year bikes have internal fuel pumps which solved this problem.

Might we make a basic bullet point instructional for this beefing up of the regulator/charging systems? I have a stock wiring system, and my bike came with an Odyssey, so I am now concerned about frying something. I'll go ahead and beef up the grounds as suggested, but I think it would be neat to have a definitive 'checklist' and step by step mod plan for everyone. I often encounter a weak battery, and I regularly trickle the Odyssey on a CETEK higher end charger. So the Rectifier Regulator is actually drawing current with the bike switched off? Although not likely, the RR might be damaged by charging if you don't isolate the battery first? Could a high current battery disconnect switch (kill switch) be engaged when the bike is sitting for long periods or when charging? Could we come up with a definitive reference voltage mod for the RR?

I got lucky a few months ago (after diligent searching and found a complete set from Teo Lamers in the Netherlands. Wasn't cheap, but nothing like OEM spec'd parts: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18247&page=10

Hmmm, I've got perfect idle now, and no pinging or popping that I can hear....maybe I outta leave well enough alone (for once!). BTW, I'm really enjoying the SpeedHut gauges. They're rock solid, look great, and all the information is spot on (unlike some ITI gauges I know of!). Looking forward to seeing how they do at night (I got the optional back lighting module). Thanks again for your support docc!

Yes I did but unfortunately only for a vey short trip. The vibrations that were there before are still there and in the same spot so I am chalking those up to the characteristics of the motor itself. Do you think the CO adjustment would take it the rest of the way?

All balanced out! Started out at about -1.5 psi imbalance, which means the left cylinder was drawing way more vacuum than the right. Adjusted the knob at about 3000 rpm until balanced, then tightened in the air bleed screws at idle until balanced. Aside from a CO tweak, the bike is ready to go!

Pillows, mattresses, t-shirts, dog toys, oven mitts, you name it. LOL

No stickers = no lawyers! Well that settles it docc! I'll take some close up photos and make a grab for the heat gun! Thanks for helping make that decision!

Here's the FBF cross-over pipe. It's only been installed for 70 miles, but it seems to be holding up fine. The welds look fairly decent I think. I just removed it today so I could install the Quat-D exhaust (another questionably welded item). Bottom line, the one that broke on you is clearly a different manufacturer, as the Feracci cross-over is basically made from two clean pipes, whereas your pipe has a few intermediate welds.

Quat-D Ex Box has been installed! Sounds great, good low tones, reminiscent of a V8's rumble. Don't know if it's just my mind playing tricks, but the throttle response seems somewhat subdued now...which was welcomed. I am going to get one of those G2 throttle tamer cam throttle tubes for my Tuono, and may get one for the V11 too...fuel injection + shaft drive can make for a jerky start if you aren't paying attention. Regardless, for whatever reasons, the new exhaust seems to have tricked my brain into thinking the throttle roll-on is a bit more smooth. I've heard reports these cans destroy the torque of the motor unless you have other supporting mods. Not sure what those mods are, but I am running those large K&N pods, so hopefully they complement the new exhaust. I guess it's all a crap shoot unless I actually get the bike tuned. So far, I can't tell a bit of difference with regard to butt dyno. I also have read that the welds on these things are poor and can crack. Hopefully the special ceramic coating won't exacerbate any manufacturing defects. Here's everything before installation. I weighed all the pieces and compared to the La Franconi carbon fiber exhaust w/hangers, rear pegs etc. LaFranconi setup: 30.5 lbs Quat-D Ex Box: 19 lbs Not sure what the riveted plate and brass plug are for, I assume they are access points for assembly. Nice of them to lighten the brass nut. Very nicely machined couplers...perfect fit. The flanges are pretty soft metal though and bent a little when installed. Nice of them to include bungs for O2 wideband sensors (I assume) Spent about 90 minutes figuring out a suitable spacing using washers and various bolts, as I had no instructions and there is very little room for error (charcoal canister mount ears are so big, the bracket had to be spaced out to accommodate them). Now the big question... to de-sticker, or leave alone... they are hideous and now fully exposed... I see no reason to leave them other than they are a neat OEM data plate, and actually have some useful information on them. But it just reminds me of how in the 90's, guns started getting paragraphs of warnings stamped on the barrels as if it was going to actually be read and adhered to. Damn lawyers. What to do?

Definitely like those rossi....they are already on my short list! I think those plus some lead shot should do the trick!

Yea, I've got some pretty soft grips on the Norge, it's a total pussycat now. But the V11 is a different beast! I'd like to do some kind of stealth vibration dampening for this bike so I can keep my Domino grips, but I'd really like to maximize smoothness via motor tuning first! Let me know how your tuning goes!

Thanks Docc as always! Yea, I figured +1.75 is too much on the air bleeds, but it did run better with them turned out.... I don't know if it matters, but I am at 2800 ft ASL. The idle right now is almost exactly 1000. I suppose it would be easy to bump it to 1100... but I will wait until I have a better idea of balance. I am excited to really get this bike tuned up, as it is already tons better.... but I am still buying bar-ends, lead shot, Vibranators or something! I'm getting the tinglies in the wrist, even after a short 20 minute ride.

Hello Roy, that bike peeking in is a 1972 BMW R60/5 - I was going to take it on as a restoration project, but I decided to stay 100% with Italian girls. I am in the process of buying back my '03 Aprilia Tuono. BTW, that particular DP gauge is definitely not made for this sort of application, but what the heck! A vacuum bias on the left port will show a negative value, and higher vacuum on the right port will show as positive. If everything's balanced, it will show zero. Also, I wanted to thank you for the comments about the right hand idle adjustment screw... I was scratching my head wondering why the heck it is needed, if we are setting the idle mV using the left hand set screw... now it makes sense. Funny though, I ended up adjusting it so it just barely touched without affecting the idle voltage value. Just like you said to do. I used my thinnest feeler gauge instead of paper to verify.

Thanks for the info Docc! I think for now, I will learn the ways of the stock map, and if I can't get things trimmed right with the big K&N pods and the new Quat-D Ex Box, I will likely go the route of electronic tuning aides. In the meantime, the valves have been adjusted! It really wasn't that bad, just had to try to predict how much change would occur during tightening of the locknut. Once that was figured out, it was easy to get the lash to acceptable numbers. If anything they were set too loose, so my concerns of too tight factory setup were unfounded. I've got them now set on the tighter side of .006 and .008. Also, I got my TPS set to 150mV full closed, and 521mV at idle (before I started, the idle setting was 397mV ...I didn't check the full-closed as-found voltage however). I have the air bleeds at about 1.75 turns out at the moment (just experimenting). For now, I adjusted the balancer knob by guessing and feeling the motor smooth out a little. I am getting a new exhaust soon, so I didn't want to do a full vacuum balance check until the new exhaust is installed. When the time comes, I will close both air bleeds and use this electronic differential pressure gauge (which my company makes). I am not sure if it will be able to buffer out the pulses like a nice column of Mercury would, but I will give it a go since I have access to this $800 gauge. A quick 20 mile ride showed that the intense vibrations lessened, and the peak of vibrations moved up from 3300 rpm to about 3750 rpm. So I've must have done something! Also, there was no more back-firing on accel (after a long steady state run). So it is definitely better, but I think there is still room for improvement! A 100 PSID gauge isn't exactly appropriate for this test, but should get me much closer than water/oil tubes Throttle at idle position. Throttle being held open to max swing on the pot (4.77 volts) Break-out wire kit works great. 150mV with butterfly completely closed. My crappy Harbor Freight POS multi-meter (9 months old) crapped out, so I had to dig out the trusty Radio Shack digital volt meter!