H-E-Ross

Yes. Once the axle is out, and with the wheel supported, the caliper hanger rotates down and slides free of the block. It's a bit fiddly to slide the block back in, but you'll get the hang of it after a few passes. Docc - Stewgnu has a 2004 V11, presumably with the longer bolt though the carrier. I am not sure if the caliper will swing free with out removing the bolt.

Yes, the earlier bolts are shorter. The later bolts with pin pass through the carrier. Refer to parts diagrams posted by CAMN previously in this thread, (though the diagram does not show the hole). To use the longer bolt with pin, a hole would have to be drilled in the carrier on my Tenni. Another consideration; bolt w/o pin, $6.00 - improved bolt with pin, $42.00. Go figure!

Here's end of the story. I brought the bike back to the shop and expressed my displeasure. I left with expectation it would be put right and that we would sort it out after the mechanic had taken a look at. The final upshot is that the bolt in question is not removed during a tire change and inspection of said bolt is not mentioned in the specs for this service. I paid a fair price for parts and labor and have moved on. Now the lesson here is; if you have a pre 2003 V11, CHECK THIS BOLT! You don't have to wait until your next tire change or brake service. The bolt should be assembled with Locktite as it does not need to be removed and it may decide to exit on its own.

In New England where it gets cold in winter (if you don't have climate controlled storage) it is a good idea to do the oil change with the season regardless of mileage. I don't think anyone has ever ruined an engine changing the oil too often.

This shop is a bit of a throwback (this is why I like it). It is a two owner, front of the house and back of the house shop, no employees. I don't want my relationship strained and that is why I asked for guidance in regard to the tire change/service. I didn't want to go in with guns a blazing if it was unreasonable for me to expect that this should not happen.

The service was done less than two months & 1000 miles ago. The mechanic is an owner and is no kid. I am not sure I can totally hang the blame on him. I must say that I tire of constantly checking the work of those I hire. I guess the lesson to remember here is; where safety is concerned you can never check often enough. I don't expect to suffer this particular problem ever again, retaining clip or no.

Rotated 180`- I like to trust the mechanics that work on my equipment but this little episode has shaken my confidence a bit.

Thanks for the responses guys. I wasn't sure if this bolt would have been removed with a tire change and spring service or not. As Scud suggested it may have worked its way lose over time. Believe it or not this may have been the first time I applied the rear brake since I had the service done. I guess I bear some responsibility for not doing a complete safety check! I understand the motives for doing your own repairs are greater than saving $. In my case I wish I had more time to ride, never mind wrenching (an activity I get satisfaction from, but don't particularly enjoy). I will bring it back to the dealer and request some consideration.....

While out for a ride this evening I was running down a steep pitch with sharp curves. Into the first curve I felt my speed was a little excessive! Braking with my front, as is my custom didn't feel quite right in this situation. As I made my way into the next curve I applied my rear to see if the results were more satisfactory (I almost never use my rear brake). All of a sudden I get a shake and a pop and no rear brake. Using my front, I bring the bike to a stop. Inspecting in the dark I determine the rear brake line is severed and after securing it make my way home with caution and less aggressive speed. In the light of my driveway I see the root of the problem; the bolt that held the caliper bracket in place is absent. When I applied the brake it pulled the bracket around yanking the brake line from the master cylinder. I had the tires changed at the dealership a short time ago. This bolt may not have been replaced at this time if it was removed for this spring service. I feel that if it was reinstalled it definitely wasn't properly torqued. My question is ; Should I pitch a bitch? This could have been a real problem in an emergency braking situation.

The stock Damper on my bike was the Bitubo unfortunately not renewable. I gave some thought to the Ohlins but the cost was considerably more. Given the dubious usefulness of this accessory I went with the original equipment and called it done.

Hello I am Hank Ross. I am the proud owner of Tenni 117 listed on the registry as belonging to Jon Sutton. I am the fourth owner, Jon sold it to a friend in Maine who in turn sold it to me a few months later. I purchased it in September of '13. It is currently getting a full service and new skins at AJ Cycle in Gill. I can't wait to get out on the road after a mighty long winter here in Western Mass.

Thanks For the input docc. I have decided to go with the bitubo as I tend to keep things stock. I did a fair amount of reading last night and found a lot of conflicting information; who knew steering dampers could be so controversial! I'm mostly a poser that likes to go fast on smooth roads. No racing for me. I think I will be just fine as long as the replacement doesn't start dripping right away. Thanks again,I apologize for posting before researching.

Looking for any suggestions regarding replacement. aftermarket, upgrade, original equipment? Comments will be appreciated . Thanks