jwh20

*** SOLD ***

I'm in Noblesville. I know they are scarce but I was just out of room in my garage and had to part with something.

I have a Becker Technik Central Lifter shop stand for V11 for sale. In a moment of weakness I sold me V11 LeMans a couple of years ago but forgot I had this. It's been used a few times but is in like-new condition. New these are 75 Euros which is about US$88 and that does not include shipping from Germany. http://shop.becker-technik.de/en/motorbike-lifters/24-central-lifter.html To lift the V11 you need 2 18mm sockets which you can pickup just about anywhere. Free shipping for US buyers. $55 via Paypal.

So how did the LeMans look? Did you buy it?

Where in SW Indiana are you? I'm in Noblesville, NE of Indy.

Thanks for the tips Pete!

I am looking at trading a Kawasaki Concours for a 1200 Sport. Wondering what anyone knows about the 1200 Sport. Known issues, common problems, how does it compare to the V11? Stuff like that. Thanks.

Are you sure it's fuel and not oil or oily water? Also are you sure the drop hanging from the tube is the same stuff? Use your nose, it can tell if it's fuel or oil pretty well. My V11 would leak a bit of fuel from the bottom of the throttle bodies because the rubber boots were slightly cracked. After replacing them there is no more leak. I believe the black tube you are talking about is the crankcase breather tube, it's normal to have some slight discharge from this and it's usually oily water. There is also a fuel tank overflow tube that comes down somewhere around there. Generally should not vent fuel unless you're overfilling, have a leaking filler cap, or the cap vent is plugged and pressure is building up in the tank and pushing fuel out the overflow.

My advice is to call either Harpers or MG Cycle. If they don't have it, they can get it. If they can't get it, it's not available. I'm not sure if the 2004 is different than my 2002 but here is the part diagram for the 2002. See if it looks familiar: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-1100-2002/gear-lever-en-v11-lemans-1100-2002.html

Just about any bearing you buy is going to be made in China. There is nothing inherently wrong with Chinese bearings, some (mostly name brand) are high-quality. Others are junk. Hoping that MG sent you the good kind.

Out of curiosity, what's the differences between a LeMans and a Nero Corsa?

Ok, I'll go out and look at mine and see if I can identify and measure what you're looking for.

I'm not clear on what dimension you need help on. But I'll be glad to go and take a measurement if you could post a bit more detail (perhaps a photo) of what you're needing.

I checked the torque of all the screws and they were all where they were supposed to be. It's probably just a bad application of sealant or something. It's leaking so little that I'm just going to live with it for now. I'm sure that I'll eventually have to get into the shifter mechanism and I can seal it up right then. For now I can live with a drop or two a week which is about the rate it's going.

That's a lot of miles and a lot of $$$. I'd pass on this deal unless the seller is willing to negotiate a lot!

Yes, it has. The PO had the classic shift-return spring failure and changed it out (or had it done, not sure) but I know it was done and he also gave me a couple of spares along with the bike. Ok, I'll try to tighten this down a bit and see if that stops it. The bike has been sitting in one spot for about 3 weeks and there was a drip on the floor about the size of a nickle. So it's not really leaking very quickly. Thanks!! Really nice here in Central Indiana today and had the V11 out for a nice ride! FINALLY Spring seems to be springing!

Looking for advice on what's leaking:

Indeed, you now have 3 of the 4 elements required for combustion. You have air, fuel, and spark. As long as there is compression, you should have a running engine!

It could of course be just about anything but I'd focus on what might be wrong after just sitting for a long time. The #1 suspect in my mind is just that the injector is clogged up with varnish or corrosion and needs to be cleaned (if possible) or replaced. I'd also check that both injectors are getting fuel. It may be that the line is blocked. So check that the injector is spraying fuel, if not, then check if fuel is getting to the injector. If both of those are good, then check for electrical issues. Could be the connector is corroded and needs to be cleaned but ultimately you work your way back to the ECU. It's possible that it's bad but unless the bike was having this issue when last parked, that seems like a long-shot. You could try swapping the left and right injectors and see if the problem stays or follows.

So, I see the #16 O-rings (one per head) and the #21 O-rings (4 per head). The #16 was the one I was thinking could give a drizzle like this (?) I suppose I'll do them all in my upcoming 100,000 mile refresh. You know, the one I think I ought to do regardless of whether it really needs it. . . . polish and balance the rods, balance the pistons , yadda-yadda . . . warum, warum, warum??? You'll want to try to keep that cleaned off unit you have a chance to fix the leak. Mine leaked there in the past and the PO didn't clean it off. It's "cooked" on and I've tried everything but sandpaper to get it off. Someone suggested oven cleaner but I'm afraid that might discolor the aluminum.

As I recall there are a couple of bullet connectors under the front of the tank that are a part of the starter circuit and these easily come loose. I know there are some other postings on the details here on the board. By the way, NICE looking LeMans! I love the champagne color! Mine's red and it's a close 2nd. Hope you get it going soon, the V11 is a great bike!

Good idea to clean the threads out but it's so very easy (don't ask me how I know!!) to cut new threads with a tap especially with soft Guzzi Aluminum! Thread-chasers to a better job and make it much more difficult to bugger-up the threads.

That does look like an unlikely break. I don't believe this part should be under anywhere near enough stress to break a bolt that way.

Sorry, I guess I mis-read that mm vs. cm... So the idea is the same, just not to the same degree. The rod is intended to make a parallelogram and keep the two U-joints in the driveshaft at the same angle as the suspension goes up and down. So this will change the angle by a bit and it may help slightly or hurt slightly. My guess is that 10 mm will not be a significant change. Now if you're just getting this to look cool, be sure you have a single-sided exhaust because on my bike the rod is almost impossible to see unless you get down on the ground.