stewgnu

Cheers fellas, I did notice a small amount of play in the wheel bearing, didn't think it was too bad but i'll check the other bits too. Ta, Stew

Hi Leon, You should be able to get them from any bike shop. I take my wheels to the local shop for new tyres- got them to swap the valve at the same time. Talk about making life easier! Could not for the life of me get an air hose on the straight one! Stew

Hi All, I've noticed a bit of a clunk when moving off. (And also occasionally when changing up a gear whilst feeding clutch out slowly). I popped the bike on a stand and there does seem to be a lot of play in the driveline- the wheel will turn a good inch or so fore and back before the prop turns. Any help/pointers on this would be great. Stew.

"Bump in 3rd" I'll second that! My battery died whilst tearin' about on Skye- nearest bike shop? ...... Inverness! Wouldn't mind quite so much but I'd literally just been 'Haha!' -ing at my chum as his Speed Four battery died just before mine: "Ha! Brit-built shite, should've got a proper bike like mine!" Ah when Irony rears thy head... 150 odd miles of bumpin to get there. No chance in 2nd; 3rd or 4th work fine. O course, weren't me that were pushin.. Of course they didn't have the right battery ... But that don't stop the industrious guzzisti! (Another story)

Before you dig in deeper, after having done the easy things first, consider that blown off boots happen quite often. So often that one could think that's just normal. Watch it, and then try to keep the flaps open when in risky conditions, such as interrupted warm starts for instance. Hubert Flaps? Risky?? Risky Flaps?? Warm Risky Flaps???

Ok, appreciate the replys, thanks. I'm off round the North tomo (All 4 English northern national parks- not too shabby!) So poss 8 or 9 hundred miles or so... I'll see how she performs- no time to feck with her as I'm away at half 5 in the morning to meet my pal at the Hartside Cafe for 9. When I get back I'll change the oils, clean the filter, check the clearances, check the tps and cylinder balance again. LIke I say: Not a mechanic (I could bore you to death about plasterin) but one trys ones best. Ta, Stew

Well I did the valve clearances last month along with the tps adjustment and cylinder balance. There's new boots on there too. I'm not a mechanic so I'm not saying everything has been ideally synched.... But she went from running crap to quite good. The bike mostly runs very well, just the occasional hiccup around, say, 2,600 revs now so not perfect. Would a less than perfect tps setting result in those pulses back thru the intakes?

mmm, I did think as much.

Right. Mental note to self: If I ever experience bad running problems, check those damn boots first! 4 times now I've had juddery idling combined with flickering lights and random surges. Every time I'm thinking 'Arg! Water in the electrics? Water in the tank?? Blocked filter??? Etc Etc...' Every time it's been the tb blown back off the boot. So. I've got to ask: What the hell do other owners do? Do you guys live with it and just expect to have to occasionally reset the rubbers back in place or do you fix 'em with something? My pal mentioned maybe using a squoit of hairspray to fix them- any thoughts on this? What about a dab of loctite? I don't want to tighten the jube clips up too much as that previously caused a bad split in one. Stew.

Just to wrap this one up neatly: The problem of intermittent functioning of the light was solved in the end by disassembling the whole unit, giving everything a good clean and reassembling. So all's well now and, due to preliminary concerns for relays/fuses/bulbs, I've a stash of spares bubble-wrapped up with the toolkit. Ta for the various leccy tips and pointers. Stew.

Haa! Yes indeed, at the very least- It's only a bike! How complicated can it be? ... I use the parking lights the same way i forget to remove my disc lock before moving off ...

Sorry to hear of your misfortune old horse, yet uplifted to hear of no major personal injuries. Hoping for two things: 1) Your Guzz gets put back together soon. 2)You've come away with some cool scars cos (as I understand it) chicks dig scars! Stew.

Suppin a lovely, cool Leffe whilst trawlin youtoob for vids of v11's.

Cheers Fellas, That's helpful information- I like to think that one day I'll look at a wiring diagram and fully understand it! Stew

Bad contact at the bulb. (A wiggle of which brought it back). I've a tail tidy fitted that doesn't allow the light unit to sit quite right. I think it's probably copping for a whole lot of shake rattle and roll back there as there are a few cracks appeared in the plastic. Picked up a relay anyway so got a spare wrapped up up under the seat now.

Wups... Wiggle first, ask questions later!

Popped a wee bit of moly on mine recently, be interesting to see what folks recommend though. Stew.

HI All, if the tail/stop light aint working (and the bulb is ok) but all fuses and other lights are working fine, is it likely to be that relay R2? Stew.

Cable tied for now- I'll see what gutsibits have.

Thanks, it's just the lower clamp part that has cracked, I wonder if it's available as a part in itself? Going to attempt to glue it first...

Does anyone know where I might get a new cable housing (at the twistgrip)? Mine has just cracked apart on the underside... Ta, Stew

So yesterday I rolled my sleeves up and set to attempting to grease (all, repeat all) the nips and bleed the clutch through... My word, what fun! I laughed and laughed and laughed. (Me laffin-> ) I love this forum though! After a couple of days trawling thru threads by baffled people experiencing unexpected difficulties (attempting what should be straightforward tasks) followed by wise and clear methods suggested by gnarly long-term owners who doubtless have no skin left on their knuckles- just hard ridges of oily bone, one feels up to the task. Big Thanks to All Wise Guzzisti! Stew

Cheers Roy, Got it balanced now (I think!) and she runs ok. Air screws are at 1/2 turn each, I could not find a happy idle with the left idle screw set at 521 so I think it's set around 420 now. Kinda back where I started though as I'm still getting the dreaded 3k spits. I'm thinking of attempting the 'Micha method' described by Mr Bean : Quote: I know it goes against the method pinned on this site for how to set the tuning settings but may I suggest you try something completely different? I learned the following method from Micha at Moto International. Step one - Set your valves to world settings Step two - Set your bleed screws to open 1 full turn Step three - Synch throttle bodies at just off idle (around 1800 rpm) Step four - Set idle to 1100 using left idle screw adjuster only Step five - Set TPS to 3.6 degrees (I forget what that translates to in mv..someone here will know) Step six - Ensure idle trim is set to zero These settings made my bike run like I expect the factory wanted it to run. No more coughing, excessive vibrations at speed, or unstable idle speeds. It honestly was like night and day! .... But, first things first, a double check for leaks around the inlet. Already swapped one boot out as it was badly split- will swap the other one for good luck.

Cheers guys, yes no probs, she popped off easy enough. (Got a real hesitancy to force stuff these days). TPS read at .349v though initially... brought it to 150mv and now she run like shit low down. Next stop manomanaction. Only prob is my garage is below neighbours flats- ten minutes idling+revving might not endear one...

Damn, well that's what I thunk, but time has taught me to be a gentle egg. Nothing like looking at a freshly sheared metal component to induce the sobs eh? Ta for the confirmation CZ, I'll get back on it.