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thelonewonderer

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Everything posted by thelonewonderer

  1. thelonewonderer
    Solid compression. 150+ for both cylinders.
  2. thelonewonderer
    I'll check it out. I have a gauge, I just need to make sure I have the right plug adapter.
  3. thelonewonderer
    I only disconnected the wiring that was attached to the engine when removing it and didn't touch any other part of the wiring harness during the removal or reinstallation. I've rebuilt a few bikes in my time, but they were all older Japanese bikes which are much easier to figure out. This is the first bike I've worked on that has injectors, an ECU, fuel pump, etc. Basically, I'm used to carbs and few electronics.
  4. thelonewonderer
    Voltage is good--over 13. The first fuse gave me a reading for voltage, but the rest did not, but all electronics seem to be working as they were on, then off when I removed the fuses, then back on again with them reinstalled. I unplugged the cable from the coil and plugged it back in and I now have spark for both cylinders. The fuel is fresh; I drained the tank during the rebuild and put new fuel in after I reinstalled the engine.
  5. thelonewonderer
    I swapped the relays but nothing changed.
  6. thelonewonderer
    Both plugs are slightly wet, but it turns out that I'm only getting spark in cylinder 1. Not even a faint spark for the plug in cylinder 2.
  7. thelonewonderer
    I'll try a little starting fluid to see what happens. The timing should be alright, as it was checked by a professional Guzzi mech...at least I'm hoping that it is. I'd hate to have to remove the engine again.
  8. thelonewonderer
    Yes, the valve is open.
  9. thelonewonderer
    The timing sensor is square to the case. I used the same spacers that were on it before, as I didn't replace any of the timing components. What is the "Go-Winkie" light?
  10. thelonewonderer
    Hey everyone, I've recenlty rebuilt the engine of my 2003 V11 Sport and reinstalled it back in the frame. It wouldn't start, and I realized that the fuel pump wasn't priming. I replaced the pump, and the new one primes just fine. I've also replaced the battery. The starter motor is working, as the engine is turning over. The bike has spark and seems to be getting fuel. The valves are also in spec. I've gotten it to sputter a little, but not start, and now it's not even sputtering anymore. Before I rebuilt the engine, the bike would start and run fine; I just had to get the crankshaft and conrods machined and replace the conrod bearings. I also had the timing and the engine checked out by a reputable Guzzi shop in my area, and it was greenlit to be put back in the frame. Anyone have ideas on what I can check and troubleshoot to get it running again? Thanks in advance!
  11. thelonewonderer
    I am rebuilding the engine from the bottom up.
  12. thelonewonderer
    Under the "Check of the Timing System Setting" in the manual it says to "fit a dial gauge support into the LH cylinder's spark plug hole. Then fit the gauge into the latter." This is to find TDC with valves closed. Then, one proceeds to turn the index plate attached to the crank to make sure the timing marks are aligned. ​I've attached a photo of the procedure. #5 is the dial gauge support, with a dial gauge resting in it.
  13. thelonewonderer
    Hello all! I need to check the timing on my 2003 V11 Sport, but I don't know where to find the appropriate dial gauge support. Does anyone know where I might be able to find one? Also, can anyone recommend a good dial gauge, as well? Thanks in advance! --Ted
  14. thelonewonderer
    Nevermind guys. I got my hands on the Torque Table, so I should have all the info that I need. Thanks anyways!
  15. thelonewonderer
    Hey all, It's been a while since I've been on the forum. Over a year ago, one of my conrod bearings gave out and messed up my crank. All has been repaired, and I am now, finally, reassembling. I ran into a hiccup, though: the manual I have doesn't give the torque specs for the connecting rod bolts. Does anyone know what the specs are? Thanks in advance. --Ted
  16. thelonewonderer
    Yes, Harpermoto has the undersized bearings
  17. thelonewonderer
    Wanderer When I take a look at the picture of the crankshaft the following comes in my mind: The damaged half of the crank pin is not really blue - maybe the surface of the crank ist not worn but bearing material deposits on it. In that case you can polish it off the pin. New rod bearing shells, cleaning the oil galleries, done. Regrounding the Guzzi crank often leads to breaking if not done correctly. Mounting a crank from an EV can cause terrible vibrations because of a different balancing. Good luck I hope you can save your crank. Thank you for the advice. I appreciate it. I will discuss this with the machinist. If I do have to get the crank ground, does anyone know what the sizes are for the undersized bearing shells? Just so I can let the machinist know. Thanks guys!
  18. thelonewonderer
    I got everything apart. The flange for the crankshaft on the flywheel side was very easy to remove with the special tool! Now, I just have to wait until next pay day so I can take the parts to the machine shop and get it all ground down. Can't wait to start putting it back together!
  19. thelonewonderer
    I ended up buying a battery operated impact wrench from Home Depot. I don't know why I didn't think of Harbor Freight. I could have saved a ton of money!
  20. thelonewonderer
    They are, indeed. I need to purchase a new compressor, as my last one got stolen Considering that a family lives above my garage, I'll have to go with one of the "silent" compressors. They're just so pricey!
  21. thelonewonderer
    I can't, for the life of me, get the 27mm camshaft nut off, in order to disassemble the timing. A hand impact driver doesn't cut it. I'll have to find a power impact driver. Unless you guys have some tips for me Thanks!
  22. thelonewonderer
    Will do. Thanks, Pete!
  23. thelonewonderer
    I finally got started on the bike today! I got the engine out, heads and cylinders, alternator and rotor, clutch and flywheel removed. I ran into some stripped hex head bolts on the timing cover, so I had to call it a night (my upstairs neighbors wouldn't appreciate the sounds of a drill and dremel at this hour). The good news is that the connecting rod is fine. Soon, I'll have the crank out and to the machine shop. I did manage to break the 3rd ring on one of the pistons. Those are relatively cheap, however. Hopefully I'll be able to go back at it Thursday night. If not, I won't be able to work on it again until Sunday. I'm excited to finally be working on this bike; I definitely miss having it on the road!
  24. thelonewonderer
    I like the idea of losing the snorkels and getting a K&N filter (a little more noise never hurt anyone ) I stick with the stock airbox, for now. I don't really have the means to get it dynotuned, although I'd LOVE to. One day...
  25. thelonewonderer
    Thanks for the responses. I've done swaps like this before on carbureted bikes, and dealt with rejetting, but I wasn't sure how it well it works with fuel injection. I'll look into ditching the snorkels. Thanks again!
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