pete roper

The video is like watching paint dry? So what's to look at? A bike going fast on a racetrack! Well Derr!!!! Sorry, but I think that that sort of *suggested* performance is silly, unless of course you are intending to go RACING! On the road it's about as much use as a rat sandwich. Just another marketing ploy that will end up seeing further 'Let's Ban These Death Machines From Our Roads' publicty from the mental defectives in transport departments world wide and the 'Road Safety Lobby' (Guffaw!!!) Pete

I'd reckon it would make you feel pretty uncomfortable. A certain racer of a Mk IV LeMans out here used to be a traffic cop in the AFP, (Australian Federal Police.) and in the end gave it away. While he's never opened up completely about why, (Even when we try grilling him when he's at a rally and is sitting downwind of Bart who insists on smoking a bloody great joint and 'Passive Smoking' him as hard as possible ) hints have been given that he became very uncomfortable about some of the things he had to do and the fact that discretion was slowly being elliminated from his job. He's now off that and back to walloping Crim's which is a lot more black and white and seems a lot happier, (The sod dropped in this morning though and his beergut is now bigger than mine! How the bloody hell am I supposed to build a competitive bike when it has to drag around a great mountain of dripping like that???? ). What shits me to tears is the fact that all the tickets I've got in the last 10 years bar one have been on open roads that are totally devoid of traffic. At the same time mongoloids, both in cars and on bikes, scream through my town on the weekend at well over the local speed limit and every day I see examples of the most dreadful driving and riding. I don't mind if they kill themselves, (Although I hate to think that if they are maimed doing something patently stupid, like a 300metre mono down the main street of Bunged End my taxes will have to pay for their lives in a wheelchair or iron lung!). Actually of course I do, but their idiocy makes me less than sympathetic if they do hurt themselves. There is risk in everything we do. I find it both idiotic and frightening that our ellected representatives seem to think that they can actually legislate against cretinous behavior. Perhaps if they stopped spending money on speed cameras and the like and re-invested in teaching science at school all the way to year 12 so that kids coming out of school at least had a basic grasp of the understanding of the laws of physics you wouldn't see so many of them loosing traction, either intentionally or unintentionally, and the roads would be a safer place. if they realized that by spinning their bloody wheels, (Or lofting the front one on a bike!) they are wasting energy that could be used to make 'em go forward they might stop it or at least look at other outlets for their social inadequacy!! Get the message across that if you're SERIOUS about going REALLY fast and if you want to perform stunts then the place to do it is the RACE TRACK!!!! Subsidise or encourage dealers to throw in a free track day with every purchase of a performance car or bike. Let the pencilnecks play on a patch of tarmac once a week that has been bleached up for burnouts and FINALLY give back the discretion to the wallopers so that they can make a choice if they issue a ticket or simply pull us over and examine our machines and if they look OK and we don't give them the shits they can decide if they ticket us or simply give us a bollocking! I've finally learnt that I can't ride for toffee! I also no longer have anything to prove to anyone, ipso-facto I'm very happy riding my poor, sad, old Convert around and never pushing the limits. What worries me is that the Mighty 'Vert with it's massive 44 rear wheel BHP is more than capable of touring at 80MPH/130KPH perfectly happily and if I get pinged doing it I WALK for three months and have to pay over $1,600 in fines!!! Even if I'm out the back of Woop-Woop and there isn't another vehicle for twenty miles! it's insane!!!! I've only got three points left, (Out of 12.) on my licence and I'm getting a bloody Griso in the next couple of months! Anyone know how to disable the shifter so I can turn it into a three speed with only 1st, 2nd and 3rd available? Oh, and I'll need some trainer wheels and two of the plug leads pulled off to keep it that slow Pete

I'm sure that Charlie has worked this out but I'd strongly recommend while he's in there you get rid of the horrible 9 ball per race 3205 bearings with the plastic cages that go on the front of the input and rear of the output shafts and replace 'em with the earlier type 14 ball per race with serpentine cage type that the factory used up until about '83. The only reason I can see for the change is cost, it was a shocking decision as the older type seem to take for ever to wear out but the new type are prone to breaking up their cages, especially if the engine is lugged from low RPM often. Pete

I tried to reply to this earlier but the connection went down. Firstly, I'd tryadjusting the shifter pawl adjuster so you get slightly more *up* and a bit less *down* on the lever. Then it will probably be one of two other things. Either poor shimming, and in that case I suggest that you have a look at my shimming instructions on either Guzzitech or Guzzitekdk which are, with all due respect to Dave Richardson, far more detailed and easier to understand and give a better result. Or Secondly, the nut on the front of the output shaft may be coming undone. This results in a poor shift between 3rd and 4th and 2nd and 3rd and the end result is that either the nut bores it's way into the bell housing and you notice the leak OR worse still the gears will double engage and the box will blow up. Sorry, but I think you should get the box out and send it to Charlie. Shims? You can get 'em anywhere, but somebody who cares is slightly harder to find!!!!! Pete

The problem won't be bringing the bike into the country per-se, you can bring in virtually anything you want as long as it isn't dangerous or likely to be carrying some disease that would decimate our primary industries. The problem will be registering it for road use. To get a bike post '74 registered it needs to have an Australian Compliance Plate affixed to it somewhere. If it doesn't then that is when the jumping through hoops starts and it will be troublesome and expensive. I honestly recommend that you sell and then buy here, and no, I don't sell motorbikes so there is no potential profit motive for me to recommend this course of action. As for the Oz government I'm more than happy to debate why I think 'Little Johnny' and his government are a mob of dangerous clowns but I'm not going to do it here as it's not the place. My original observation was simply a warning that a european might be a bit nonplussed by the shenanigans of our current crop of ellected leaders that's all. Pete

Jude and I were in BC in the middle of last year and you're right, it really is stunningly beautiful. Oz is too in places, but in a different way. I suppose it's all a matter of what you like if you're priviledged enough to have a choice as to where you live. I left the UK because it was far too crowded with people I hated. I now live in a town that recently cracked the 6,000 population mark and it's now WAY to big for me so I'm hoping to make the move to the south coast of NSW and actually open a DEALERSHIP!! You know, selling new bikes and doo-rags and collostomy bag holders with 'Moto Guzzi' printed on them, all made in China mind Lots of space down there still, for the moment. Pete

Yeah, not wishing to be political but we currently have the most spineless, lickspittle government with a nasty, racist, right-wing bent that you might find pretty distasteful. So fawningly adoring of the US administration that the USA hasn't even bothered having an ambasador here for the last 11 months!!!! How sad is that. When John Howard was elected nearly a decade ago he said he wanted to take Australia back to the 1950's, the terrifying thing is that he has succeeded, we are now, generally inward looking paranoid and racist, just like the country was 50 years ago! . You sure you still want to come here you miserable clog-wog bastard? Pete

Whether you get in depends on a lot of things but mainly what skills you have. There are major shortages of lots of skilled workers, trades people, doctors and nurses are generally a shoe-in. If you go to the Dept. of Immigration website there will be a list of occupations that are being spruiked for easy imigration access. try not to be too scared if you see a picture of the Minister for Immigration and Ethnic Affairs, she's called 'Fatty' Vanstone and has a face like a bashed crab! My advice would be to buy a V11 when you get here. Any machine over, I think, 20 years old is easy enough to get in and register but anything newer and you'll have to get documentary proof, from the factory, that your model is IDENTICAL in every respect to a model sold here and they'll make you jump through hoops to meet all sorts of absurd legislative requirements, (Which will be different from state to state!). you wioll also pay import duty AND 10% GST when you bring it in. Believe me, it simply ain't worth it!!!! Where are you thinking of settling? While the jobs are mainly in the major capital cities Sydney is a stinking wen that needs bulldozing off the face of the planet, Melbourne is a bit better and Perth is OK but it's the most remote city in the world. Sydney is further from Perth than Singapore!!!! If you need any help or advice gimme a holler! Pete Roper. Motomoda 23, King St. Bungendore. NSW2621 Oz. +61 26238 1587 (Home.) +61 26238 0223 (Workshop.) +61 0417 462 440 (Mobile.) or email. motomoda@optusnet.com.au

Rick, I've said it again and again on most of the Guzzi forums. Some people will try and convince you you have a two wheeled Ferrari and will try and gouge you on price accordinly. In all honesty you bike is closer to a two wheeled Briggs and Straton and there is NO shame in that. All the consumables, gaskets, filters etc. are dirt cheap compared to most other manufacturers and there is a thriving 'aftermarket' of whom Rick and Gordon at MG Cycles are probably the best known in the USA, (And top blokes to boot!). As others have said, it's a bit of paper, gouging on a bit of paper is a bit rich! Next time ask before you pay! A whole set of gaskets, seals a filter and O-rings to rebuild a big block front to back will only cost in the region of $130AU or about $100 US, probably less! Love 'em for what they are, not what they're not, and *expensive* isn't in the equation!!!! Pete

Replied on WG viz the 'vert headers. The whole system is Mk IV LeMans! Pete

I've found the precise opposite to be true Mike! On many machines I've 'cured' excess oil blurting by cutting the return pipe, (As used up to the Mk III LeMans.) off flush with the case so the return is ABOVE oil level. On some bikes, most notably old shiters like my first SP, with an 88mm or larger bore and cast iron liners which by their very nature dont seal as well as Nicasil there is sometimes a problem, especially if the original roundfin Tonti 'Elephants Trunk' air filter and air box is used, of crankcase pressure forcing oil back up the return from the sump until it floods the airbox to the level of the inlet trumpets. When this happens oil is drawn into the motor through the carbs and the motor goes 'BLLLAAAAAAARGGGGG!!!!!! and everything behind you disappears in a white fog First time it happened to me I nearly shat meself!!!! That's the main rason that Guzzi adopted the sump extension on later models, to increase the crankcase volume so the difference between *Max* and *Min* volume was reduced and hence presurisation. The rocker areas are just as prone to pressurisation as the case proper, (well, maybe not *Quite* as much?) because of the oil drain holes through the barrels. Like you, on my roundfins I've pissed the rockerbox breather lines off as their main purpose is to try and discourage the formation of mayonaise in cooler weather, they don't work anyway Guzzi have always been a bit schitzoid about them anyway. Early roundfins didn't have them, then they did, then they disappeared with the advent of the Mk III and T5 and then they returned with the big-valve motor but were also used for condensate return and then with the spineframes they disappeared again so who knows?????? Chris Rampen and Kev Foote have both got Mk V LeMans and their system is, (I think?) to remove the PCV valve from it's rather odd place in the crank vent spigot and re-locate it at the end of the breather to atmosphere. This has hepled reduce the ingress of cooler, damp air to the motor and hence elliminated the mayonaise problem. I'm not sure how the condensate is returned???? At the end of the day I think we both agree that the condensate should be returned to the motor. Where I don't think really matters as long as a.) the breather box is big enough and b.) the ring sealing and guides are in good condition. Whatever works is fine, as long as it works. In Ben's case the problem is that currently the condensate isn't being returned so he's effectively running a constant loss lubrication system which will a.) Piss the greenies off to the max and b.) could, in extreme circumstances, lead to running the engine out of oil so I do think it should be addressed. Pete

So who did the twin plugging? Obviously someone not familiar with the breather system. Look, there obviously has to be a return path otherwise the condensate will simply fill yup the frame until it gets to the breather to atmosphere and blurt out there, at the same time emptying the sump. My suggestion would be to drill and tap the rocker covers to allow the installation of a banjo bolt with appropriate banjo fitting and, because the cover is quite thin, retain it with a nylock nut on the inside. Obviously you have to be fairly careful about where you position the hole as the nut will foul on the rocker gear if it's in the wrong place. The thing is the condensate has to be returned to the engine. Where it goes in isn't that important but prefferably it should be above the level of the oil in the sump. If you don't fancy the drill and tap method you could buy the drain plug/banjo plug and pipe from one of the early Hi-Cams that allows the return of oil through the drain plug. With this though the return is below the sump oil level. Another option would be into the timing chest. Does your bike have a mechanical tacho or an electronic one? If the latter you could drill the old tacho drive boss and run a pipe with a speedflow fitting on the end to that and siamese the returns from the frame, (Or just use one and block the other.) and run them to that. Drill and tap the sump extension to take two banjos. The list is endless. all you have to do is get the condensate back into the case. In fact, I'd think that the last option might be quite good. While it would be returning the condensate to below the level of the oil in the sump at least the casting is good and thick so you wouldn't need to use a lock-nut. Pete

While little bearing pullers are readily available and cheap if you want to change wheel bearings it's easier to just use a punch and biff 'em out from the *other* side. Ideally you heat the area they sit in to expand the alloy until they drop out. In reality, given the life of the wheel, biffing 'em out and in is the way to go. What I would ask is why you are doing it? f they are knackered I'd be looking for a reason. Wheel bearings usually last a very, very long time as long as they aren't dry or the spacer between them isn't munted???? Pete

This is actually an interesting. I'm buying a Griso as soon as one arrives but I'm actually in two minds as to what to do with it. Being honest it will have all the power and performance I could ever want. If I wanted more I'd buy a three year old R6 or CBR600, rip all the road shit off it and take it to track days . Yes, in a lot of ways I can see that changing it a bit would be nice but there again, if I keep it completely stock down to the last nut and bolt then it might just become a 'Collectors' Item' some years down the track.... Knowing me I won't be able to resist and I'll do all sorts of silly and un-neccessary stuff to it but logic would dictate that the best thing to do, as with most modern vehicles, is to leave it alone. Oh, and I think that muffler looks pox. Worse than the beer-can. Pete

More stuff up today with pics of serviced heads. Pete

Colin has been deemed a 'Foreign Menace' by the Howard Government and is currently languishing in a detention centre formerly used by refugees. He is accused of 'Sedition' a recently broadened offence that now includes a five year gaol sentence for anybody who suggests that the Prime Minister or any of the Cabinet have their heads up their arses! While Colin didn't put his hands up to that to protect me there was no evidence of a link so they locked him up a a potential plague carrier instead. I plan a sting style operation to 'Break him out' later tonight!!!!! Death to the running dogs of capitaism! Throw off the yoke of imperialism! See tha lackeys of the imperialist right quake before the rage of the proletariat.... etc, etc, etc, (Yawn!) Pete

If anybody is interested I've started a pictorial strip and rebuild of a Squarefin motor in a thread over on Wildguzzi. The basics are exactly the same as those of a V11 if you want to see what goes on inside your motor. Pete

I'd suggest order a new one from???? Wasn't it Paul who said that Teo has crates of 'em cheap? and get it air expressed over from clog-wog-land, It'll be with you in a couple of days. I'd suggest going *local* but Todd sez he doesn't have one, you could try one of the other mobs, Harper's, MG Cycle etc. as Ratchet says if you weld it it will warp, forget it, just get it polished, cut the alternator part out and stick a clock in there and then sit it on your mantlepiece as a conversation piece when your hateful in-laws come round . Epoxy *might* work, but there again it might not, why risk it? Buy a new seal, it'll cost next to nothing. You can probably get one from the local bearing factor but I've always found that *original* seals work whereas generic ones sometimes don't. I have no idea why. You'll get great satisfaction from doing this yourself. You've got all winter. Don't rush it and ASK if you get stuck. There are NO stupid questions, only stupid answers. OK? Pete

Jaap, I found the original pics vile. I don't know whether they are genuine or not, (There was a small pig-fest over it on WG?) but I appreciate the fact that you stuck in links. I've seen enough horrible shit from the insides of people to ever want to see more, we are nasty bags of gloop, I prefer the gloop on the inside and don't need to be reminded of it. No I'm not for censorship and I know what threads to avoid but I don't need to dwell, or worse still, gloat at other peoples stupidity or misfortune. Incidentally? Where did you get that interesting picture of the Australian Prime Minister you use in your atavar? Pete

If one want's to twin plug a V11 I would of thought pricing up a pair of Breva/Griso heads and a My 15M computer would probably be fairly cost effective? Pete.

PS. Beer and swearing are obligatory! I Had to strip a Mk IV motor today and there was a LOT of both!!!! Pete

Urrrgh! I'm sure i've pulled the timing chest cover off V11's with the sub frames in place???? Look, I could be wrong, but quite simply it isn't a real issue. Once the tank is off you'll find that the sub frames are retained by allen bolts, undo the ones towards the back of the bike, take them out and loosen the front ones and the sub frames can be swung forward and you should be able to remove the timing chest cover. One thing i would recomend is that you DON'T try to cut corners. If you think "Well, it would be easier if I take part 'X' off but perhaps i can get away with jiggling 'Y' and holding my tongue at the right angle? DON'T!!!! You'll simply be making your job harder and will probably end up damaging something. I can understand if you haven't been in to anything much mechanical before it may seem daunting. All I can say is 'Don't be Daunted'. the Guzzi engine is a model of simplicity, what causes people to stuff up is two main things, 1.) Cutting corners. And 2.) not thinking about the 'WHY' of how things are. try to get inside the head of the bloke who designed it and you'll find that it is all, really, very straightforward and simple. You aren't being asked to tollerance bearings here, you're replacing a gasket. Remember that. If you're bright enough to ask for help you can replace your timing chest gasket, belive me, I've walked people through far worse over the internet!!!!! Pete

Oh yes Jason, I forgot to add that it's got the full 'C' kit, I'd just dialed the cams in correctly, It's got a PCIII that is *almost* right, (Well, as right as it's ever likely to be with those cams ) really sticky rubber and the blok who owns it is about my size and not a lot lighter so it even handled reasonably well, (For a spiney ) Now where is it you live again? Some godawful place in the US midwest innit???? OOOOHHHHHH! Nasty!!!!! Sorry. Normal service will be resumed shortly.......... Pete. (Heartless gloater #1)

Well, today here it is a balmy 23*C and I just so happened to have a Daytona RS I've just done a top-end job on that I had to take for a thrash, errr, test ride. What a tragedy! Not wanting to munt it I didn't take it over 200kph, purred like a kitten! Pete

No Brevas or Grisos have been sold in the USA as yet, latest estimates seem to be that theyw ill be arriving in spring '06. There was apparently some problem with the tank emission system compliance for California and for some reason the importers then decided not to sell 'em anywhere . All reports from markets that have had them are positive. In Oz, to the best of my knowledge the only problems reported are one bevelbox that went tits-up, but that was on a bike that had been flogged mercilessly by journalists who were probably trying to make something break. (Incidentally I saw this box and it looked like a simple bearing cage failure and as far as I know this was a 'one-off' I haven't heard of any other problems.) Some bikes have arrived with their CARC housings scratched by something rubbing against them in transit, cosmetic damage only. One or two petrol tanks having a minor fault, (Not sure what but I think it's cosmetic.) and one bloke in New Zealand has a slight weep at the joint between his CARC housing and the swingarm which is supposed to be a 'Dry' area so that needs investigation. It's a lovely bike to ride. I must say I didn't like the styling so I'm waiting for a Griso, but it is a very nice machine. Pete