pete roper

Alas, unless there is some aftermarket specialist in europe, (and I don't know of one.) who is putting alternative crownwheels and pinions into production I'm afraid the answer is no. The situation is further complicated by the V11 bevel set being unique in that a.) the crownwheel is machined along with the splined hub as a single part as opposed to the earlier bikes which have the crownwheel bolted to the hub and b,) the V11 pinion has an outrigger bearing at the end of the shaft for additional support meaning that even if you could cobble something together, (Unlikely.) using and earlier CW&P it still wouldn't work right. There is also the issue of pinion splines and the ratios themselves. I can't offhand remember what the ratio or tooth count is on the V11's?????? Pete

Unless you do something silly like run 'em dry they don't seem to wear out! New Converters are still available, Teo has a heap of 'em! ear as poison mind! I didn't know you could put that many zeroes after the $ sign on a motorbike part As for other parts? Most of 'em are still available and those of 'em that aren't you go to Fleabay or make 'em. Cheapest optionwith a poxy old 'vert is to buy a second heap as a spares bike. They are generally unloved so they're dirt cheap! As for the supposition that all bikes would be auto's, Well, Raymond Baxter always was as mad as a box of frogs! Pete

No, head is hard and made of solid bone. Modern brakes? Well, yes, but from what I've heard you can't get rebuild kits for the newer Brembo'sand they are a lot more prone to seizing pistons. Not a particularly brilliant step forward Also I have no problem with my older ones. Steering? Super quick *modern* steering, especially coupled with great, big, fat, expensive, modern tyres is one of the things that will really put me off. If Guzzi had stuck on a decent HCS system I'd be in like Flynn. I know that modern teles are good, but they are still such a loathsome compromise, time to move on to something that doesn't combine the steering and suspension functions. Drivetrain? The drivetrains in my old shitheaps are not only 100% reliable, (Both my five speeds, the ZD and T boxes have been super reliable.) as has my Auto driveline. 'Updates' to the later five speeds have made 'em less reliable and the six speed fitted to the V11 seems to have certain issues. The enclosed driveshaft on the earlier machines is certainly more prone to munting UJ's than the later models but there again I've never seen an early model bust splines off the output shaft or pinion which I've certainly seen on later bikes. I can't remember ever shedding a fairing part either. Incidentally about 2 years ago I did a run down from a rally near the Queensland border on the SP. It was patchy rain all the way but I managed 1,200KM in 12 hours including a stop for lunch and the run through the sweaty armpit of satan that masquerades as Sydney, the last bit from Goulburn to home, (Some 80Km.) was in the dark and it was snowing. I don't really think that can be described as too shabby or indicative of 'Not being able to run all day'. To be honest I'd far rather hop on my SP if had to get to Perth in a hurry than ride anything modern, it's like a low-flying sofa, albeit not as fast as Enzo's As I said, it'll have to be bloody impressive to sway me, but I'm not completely blinkered or one-eyed. Pete

I'd suggest you phone Yamaha and ask 'em. My guess would be non hardening on the rubbery bit and hardening on the metal composite thingy but don't take my word for it I only work on reliable stuff. Has the Vulcan done it's oil pump yet? Pete

Wrong in what way? The fact that the incredibly conservative motorcycle market couldn't accept something so radical? Yup, I suppose so. If you imply that the Convert itself is *wrong* in some way I suggest you actually ride one before making any sort of judgement. They were, and remain today, a superb tool for their purpose and are more fun than a sack full of angry squirrels! pete

What people fail to understand is that I LIKE slow and ugly Really! I've got an SP with a 40 Litre petrol tank and a Convert! Ugly is as Ugly does! I'll only really be happy if they sell it with an auto and paint it sh!t brown though Pete

Thanks Paul. Very interesting. Pete

OK, so you think I'm a miserable old bastard, worse still a miserable old lefty hippy bastard? One who has no interest in anything built after the dawn of the industrial revolution? Well Nyah, Nyah, Nyah! I went into my local 'Official' dealer today and 'booked' a test ride on a Breva. Now when this fabled machine is actually going to be available God alone knows, I know there are some in the country, I think I'll probably have to phone up Dave and pester him to see if any of the Shitney dealers have one I can take for a flog. The thing is that the looks of the wretched thing *are* actually growing on me, and although the motor is still, (IMHO.) the same repellent old lump we know and love there *is* enough that is newish and different about it to make me genuinely interested. I do prefer the looks of the Breva to the Grease-Oh and given the fact I'm a seriously un-supple 'Old Fart' and would want to cart the ball and chain around with me the Breva looks like it might fit the bill. The BIG caveat of course is that it'll have to do everything $20, 000 better than my current bits of shit! Now if only they'd build one with an auto transmission Pete

It's worth noting that inside that collar, (Or in a groove on the crankshaft, an't remember which????) there is an o-ring that seals the collar internally. If it continues to leak it might be worth swapping that too. I usually do these as a matched pair. Sorry, I forgot about that in my first reply. Pete

The 'Belt Rattle' can be quite extreme. I dunno what causes it exactly but certainly 'C' kitted bikes tend to rattle more so I suppose it's something to do with the loads imposed by the cams on the belts and gears. Given the MGS is in a pretty high state of tune I'd guess it would be noisy as all getout. Does the MGS Use the 'C' kit or are the cams a new part/profile? Pete

Ahhh! Different situation Jim. If I had such a plate, yes, I'd probably keep it too, but only if it didn't cost me money to transfer it from machine to machine. Over here when you register a machine they give you a plate. if the registration lapses you're supposed to give the plate back to the RTA, (Govt. body.) If the machine is then re-registered at a later date it gets given another, completely different plate. In The UK, unless things have changed, a vehicle gets issued a number when it is first registered and it keeps that number effectively for ever. Look, if folks want personalized plates thats fine, it's no skin off my nose. I just think they're daft. pete

Q.What do Essex girls use for protection during sex?

Watch it Tex! I've got a special dispensation for that chicken!!!! Pete

Yup, you can here too. I just think it's a ridiculous waste of money that could otherwise be better spent. Pete

You know as well as I do that that isn't what I was saying. Such an argument is fascile and beneath you Dave, (it is Dave isn't it???). The blood issue is a good one. I can't give blood any more due to having been in England during the mad cow thing but it's easy and painless so go out there and get stuck! Pete

Yet, just perhaps, if you gave the extra cash you're going to spend on a personalised number plate to a relief organization it might do some good for this, or some other worthy cause? It must be wonderful to be able to compartmentalise your life so thoroughly. Pete

All my bikes are, and always have been, very personalised. Just because I think that paying a government agency a big fee on top of what they already extort out of me for the pleasure of having my own *chosen* selection of letters and numbers is a wank doesn't mean... ah, bollocks, I can't be bothered trying to explain. Do whatever you want with your money, I just think it's a stupid waste. pete

VLZ 10. It identifies the bike, which is what the gubmint want so they can tax me if I go too fast and it costs me *nothing* above the general registration fee. Sorry Jim, but I think personalised number plates are sad and the people who *need* them seem on the whole to be unsatisfied sorts lacking in any real self confidence or self worth. If people crave to have a lable put on them to prove their worth or make a statement about their *individuality* I'd suggest they grow up and go and get a life. And that's what personalised number plates are all about, no matter how they are 'justified'. Pete

Unless the esign has changed drastically in this respect, (And I don't think it has but I'm going from memory.) the outer race of the needle roller sits on a brass ring just inboard of the smaller *outer* oilseal. Sometimes the outer race will simply pull out with your fingers butif it won't you can use a small puller braced against either the wheel spacer in the box or a socket poked through the seal so it bears on the box and hooked under the brass ring. While I can't remember precisely the set-up I'm pretty sure the needle roller and it's installation and co-parts are still common with the earlier boxes. Rather than tyring to biff the outer bearing out how about getting a piece of bar or a soket or some such that will just sit on the edge of it and try pressing it out. There must be workshop nearby with a press????? Pete

Gotta agree there. I can't see whay anyone would pay a single penny extra for a bloody number plate????? Personalized plates are a big thing here too and they are a handy little revenue raiser for the gubmint. To me it is like volunteering to be taxed excessively. There is also the fact that having a personalised plate is like having a huge sign on your back saying "I'm a complete wanker!" Pete

I certainly wouldn't buy any of that shabby lot, mind you if I had my time again I would of bought a Mk I Lemon with the 'Factory Race kit' which I could of then put away for thirty years and recouped the cost of the bike by selling it on Fleabay Pete

The thing to remmember is that unless you feel there is something wrong with the pinion bearing preload you don't have to remove it to get to the inner needle roller, the inner seal or the outer needle roller. Just leave it in place and work around it. I can't remember, (or see from the pics!) whether the needle roller is extracted from the inside or the outside of the box. If it's from the outside though there is no need to disassemble the box at all. DO remember that when the bevelbox is re-installed it is VITAL that the two UJ trunnions at either end of the driveshaft be aligned with each other. If they are out by even one tooth it will do serious damage to expensive stuff, will prevent the suspension from working properly and when it fails can do so dangerously! Pete

Sorry, can you just confirm this? The bevelbox is moving in relation to the swingarm? You're not talking about play in the pinion in relation to the box? I did a write up a while back about stripping V11 bevelboxes, it may still be around somewhere up the list. To me it sounds as if the needle roller in the outside of the box that the box can move on the spindle on may of given up the ghost. I'm not sure if you beed to strip the box to replace that or not???? Pete

Sorry, I wasn't clear. Yes, there will still be advantages but they won't be as great with a pushrod type design as with an OHC type or even a 'Cam in Head' type like the 4V big blocks. Essentially the 4V heads used on the Hi Cams were a cheap option that didn't require any redesigning of major components, (Incidentally I'll believe that Guzzi have a truly NEW big engine the day the rear main bearing doesn't carry the same part# as the one for the 1967 V7 ) it's simply a bolt on the top job of the same old case etc. with a spiffy belt drive off the old camshaft. Why was the lario type system not carried over to the big blocks? I have no idea, although I have always had a sneaking suspicion that the factory used to see the smallblock as the 'Way Forward' rather than the aged big-block design. Perhaps they weren't expecting to still be building the horrible old shitheaps long enough to make it worthwhile. Perhaps they saw the Hi Cam configuration as a better bet? who knows???? Incidentally a German company called CSS made some 4V pushrod heads, there is one bloke in Sydney who has two bikes with them on. They are MURDER on cams and pushrods, at least they are until you change the valve springs for something a bit softer, and don't really seem to go much harder than a 2V motor but they do have some technical interest. Pete

There were a number of reasons not only for it's demise but also for it's enormously long gestation period. Originally it was supposed to be ready in the late eighties but one of the biggest problems they had was with heat cracking the heads. The engine was originally designed a track challenger and while they were OK in race conditions where there was a large flow of air over 'em in the less hospitable environs of theroad they used to crack. It took ages for a suitable alloy to be developed that would take the heat, (literally.) with suitable expansion characteristics. Hi Cams are still prone to cracking heads though! The greatest reason for it's demise is cost. The Hi Cam costs about $2,200 more per unit than the old pushrod lump. It's also heavier, more complex and produces little more power, (although it delivers it in a completely different way.) In fact the rocker ratio on the Hi-Cams is considerably better than on the pushrod machines. about 3 to rather than the 1.1 to 1 of the pushrod donk, but the loadings on the small adjusters can cause failures if lash caps aren't fitted to the valves, (They were on later models ex-factory.) and over-revving will still snap rockers like rotten carrots. The smallblock Lario and it's sibblings used a pushrod 4V head. Apart from reliability problems using pushrods and OHV operation negates one of the great benefits of using a multi valve format, that of greatly reduced valve train weight. Two smaller valves not only have a greater surface area than one large one but they weigh, (or should do!) considerably less as well. Riding a 'C' kitted Hi-Cam is one of the most awesome, spine tingling experiences I know of in motorcycling. Up to about 4,750rpm the thing will cough and splutter and runs like a dog, for abut the next 500rpm it seems to smooth out but nothing much happens but suddenly, at about 5,500-5,750 the induction note and exhaust noise drop by a full octave, the back end suddenly goes rigid, and the horizon starts coming towards you at a thoroughly indecent rate. A Daytona ridden like this is a truly raw, exciting, motorcycle. The big problem is that very, very few people actually want something that raw and visceral. Most folks want their speed and acceleration delivered with a bland and antiseptic smoothness. A machine like a 'C' kitted Daytona is simply too confrontational and demanding. The Hi-Cam is a wonderful thing, if you like that sort of thing, but it was, even at the time of it's inception, a dinosaur, an evolutionary dead-end. Overtaken and left behind before it ever made it to the street it remains, in my opinion, the last, great, stand of the 'Biggus Dickus', hairy-chested, air cooled motorbike engine. An engine that lets you know you're riding a large, powerful machine and none of the others really want to @#!#$# with you! The fact that in real terms it is not very powerful and, as mentioned, it is far from civilized is completely irrelevant! It's the sort of engine that goes in a motorbike ridden by the sort of people who little old ladies and small children are scared of and who have to be careful not to tread on the end of their willies in the shower . They're fantastic, but they're gone, and we will, I'm afraid, never see their like again, (To parraphrase Flan O'Brien.) Pete