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Everything posted by pete roper
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I'd have to disagree with the 'Anything is possible' supposition. How do you get a motor to make more power? The bottom line is you either have to get more molecules into the combustion chamber or you have to excite them more once they are there. Preferably both. Unfortunately the Guzzi Hi-Cams, both old and new, have several limiting factors in their overall design and engineering that preclude the ability to get significantly greater volumetric efficiency, thermal efficiency or mechanical efficiency, (Although the 'New' hi cam and to a lesser extent the MGS01 engines do have significant changes and waste reduction strategies incorporated into the design.). Whilst it might, conceivably, be possible to make the motor produce 120 RWHP to do so would make it very peaky and would gut it of bottom end and midrange. We've done a fair bit of experimentation on this with the Nuovo Hi Cam and the simple fact is that chasing top end is a fool's errand. The Hi-Cam is what it is. When mapped correctly and running a long pipe with a dB killer installed it will make *About* a genuine 100 RWHP. Doing all the stupid shit that people expect to work because they've been told it will by charlatans with something to flog, (Open airbox's, shitty air (Non!) filters, loud, short pipes, too much fuel etc.) may yield a handful of extra ponies up the very top but what makes the Hi-Cams so enjoyable, their incredible, flat torque curve and tractor-like ability to reel in the horizon with the twist of a throttle from any speed in any gear WILL be severely compromised. We know. We've done it. The results were disappointing and spoke for themselves. As I always say to people who say they want their Griso to make 130 HP? Forget it and love it for what it is. Don't try and make it into something it can never be. The early Hi Cam is less mechanically efficient than the later one so you're already behind the 8 ball there. There is no 'Magic Bullet', only 'Magical Thinking'.
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If you aren't running a sloppage sheet it's advisable to run the oil level as high as you can get away with without it being pumped out into the airbox. If you're running a plate run the oil level just below the plate.
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Nope. When you take the 'manhole' off the sump the whole sump full will gush out. How did you install the filter? You did use a cup wrench, not just your fingers I hope?
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What makes you think that?
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Sadly the 8V Hi-Cam is no more. Too dirty and too thirsty for starters and of course something so much fun wouldn't be countenanced by the droids at Piaggio who see Guzzi as their platform for hipsters and cranky old white men who think pushrods are a pinnacle of engineering excitement.....
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There have been endless claims for stupid HP figures for Guzzi Hi-Cams both first and second generation. Certainly the MGS had substantial lightening and friction reducing additions to the early Hi-Cam but whether these would of been sufficient to glean the boost to performance claimed I remain fairly skeptical. The internet is also awash with claims of stupid power increases with the 2nd generation Hi-Cam. Usually coupled with a breathtaking ignorance of the laws of physics and bucketloads of 'Magical Thinking'. In this, as with so many other examples of idiocy, I part my buttocks and break wind vigorously in their general direction.
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Over here it would very much depend on the road marking and signage. A good few years ago my mate Johnny the Sheep Fucker crested a hill and found a bloke doing a U turn over double lines in the middle of the road towing a fucking caravan. Johnny entered under the draw bar on the van and probably died instantly but it didn't stop the driver completing his U turn and only stopping when he thought the van wasn't towing right. He pleaded guilty to negligent driving. A plea that was accepted purely because if a charge of Culpable Driving Occasioning Death had been pursued and lost then the widow and family would of got nothing from the insurance company. Driver got a three month ban and a fine <$1,000. Be careful out there. Even if you are the victim you need to consider your family........ Even if you aren't around to consider them yourself......
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Thanks John. More help than my response. Did that oil cooler ever turn up? I reckon it got eaten by Covid. Jude and I had our first shots today. Jude's brain hurts. I'm as fit as a flea! OK, a fat, morbidly obese flea but still a flea!🙄😄
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I can't remember if they'd gone to a dot-matrix printer by then but it'll either be on the web on the case below the oil filler or on a flat oval in the casting on the LH side of the timing chest I believe.
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If the one you rode only had 2 more Ft/lbs of torque than a 2 valver there was something wrong with it!
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Just a heads up on those earlier 'Pork Chops'/side plates. They changed the design for more than just cosmetic reasons. The early ones are much, much more prone to cracking, even a bad drop at a standstill can do damage that may not be immediately visible but severely weakens them. It's worth doing a penetrant die test before fitting to check their integrity. Remember, it's those plates that hold the swingarm on. If one breaks the other one will too and the back of the bike falls off!
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Don't think it matters. You're simply powering down the whole system and it's this that clears the trims. One assumes that even on key off there is some slight parasitic drain for the security LED and one presumes the base functions of the ECU. Only thing I know is that if you remove the power the trims are cleared but I'm just a spud-thick motorbike mechanic.
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36mm PHF's with 36mm manifolds matched to the heads works well enough. Throw in a P3 cam and a set of LeMans advance springs for the distributor and it'll wake it up a bit. It'll still be a 45 year old ditchpump with a wheel at each end but at least it can make some pretence at being more than a dunger. Personally I'd of just left it as a T3/G5. While they won't set the world alight they are comfortable, frugal and charming. They don't have to pretend to be anything other than what they are......
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Always amuses me that the people who want these things always seem to forget that the term is Cafe RACER yet here we are with yet another old T3/G5/SP with a LeMans tank, side panels and a silly seat and it still has the 'orrible 30mm VHB carbs. No point it walkin' the walk if you can't talk the talk. Smallvalve roundfins are a lovely thing but a 'Performance' machine they never were. If you want one to GO as well as it SHOWS you better be prepared to spend money and get your hands dirty. That probably isn't the point though is it?
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Probably the reason for change was the simple one, cost. In all honesty with your Eldo I'd have to ask why go to the trouble of swapping? A chain with a decent Valtek type tensioner will last at least 120,000km. Are you really likely to ride a nearly 50 year old bike that far in your lifetime? Id be far more concerned about establishing if it still has chrome bores and if it does? Fixing that before I worried about the cam drive. You'll also find that if you are looking for a set of the original Guzzi gears the oil pump gear is different from memory, straight shaft on one set up, tapered shaft on the other. I might be mistaken on that, dealing with that stuff was a lifetime ago. Really though on a 50 year old vehicle worrying about the cam drive is a bit like worrying about the mouse hole in the skirting board when you're sitting in a room with a hungry tiger!😂
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Haven't lifted a spanner for the en-biggening of the motor yet but digging around in my 'Mountain of Munt' I did find the Tenni green bodywork and brown seat off one I wrecked out a while back so today I took off the boring black plastics, (except the front mudguard.) and played swapsies. Much better than boring black and baboon's arse red seat!
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Waffling bollocks and lies from a Piaggio drone. They just open their mouths and a pyroclastic flow of irrelevant rubbish vomits forth.
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Neutral light switch.
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Youse blokes are so unlucky! I just got a PM from a 35 year old woman who is desperate for sex with a link to her nude pictures! Bet none of you have got an offer like that before... Ever.....Or whatever......
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ANSWERED low pressure oil light on at idle
pete roper replied to mobetta's topic in Technical Topics
One of the occasional bugbears of the CARC bikes is the gasket between the spacer and the block blowing out around the delivery gallery at the front. Easily fixed by fitting a thicker aftermarket gasket it seems to affect the 8V's more than the pushrod engines but the result is a significant loss of pressure. -
ANSWERED low pressure oil light on at idle
pete roper replied to mobetta's topic in Technical Topics
Replace the oil pressure sender switch, they are always suspect. Drop the sump spacer and the carrier for the filter, thermostat and OPRV, check OPRV is working correctly and replace gasket, (Also a good time to fit a sloppage sheet if you haven't already.) raise the idle to 1200+/-50. -
What's the deck height on those pistons compared to the V11? I thought they changed the rod length for the CARC motors? Could be wrong but if the deck height is too low it'll be a tractor. Run on kerosene but have the performance of a 1955 Fordson......
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Dear god no, don't wish that on us. The world, and especially Guzzi, does not need yet another prehistoric, pushrod powered shit-stick masquerading as a motorbike......
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If they are going to produce something *New* there haven't been any sightings around Mandello and that would be a first. There are always shots of new models being road tasted near the factory. Having said that all design and development is probably done at Noale now so maybe people just aren't looking in the right place.....