pete roper
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Posts posted by pete roper
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Always amuses me that the people who want these things always seem to forget that the term is Cafe RACER yet here we are with yet another old T3/G5/SP with a LeMans tank, side panels and a silly seat and it still has the 'orrible 30mm VHB carbs.
No point it walkin' the walk if you can't talk the talk.
Smallvalve roundfins are a lovely thing but a 'Performance' machine they never were. If you want one to GO as well as it SHOWS you better be prepared to spend money and get your hands dirty. That probably isn't the point though is it?
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Probably the reason for change was the simple one, cost.
In all honesty with your Eldo I'd have to ask why go to the trouble of swapping? A chain with a decent Valtek type tensioner will last at least 120,000km. Are you really likely to ride a nearly 50 year old bike that far in your lifetime?
Id be far more concerned about establishing if it still has chrome bores and if it does? Fixing that before I worried about the cam drive. You'll also find that if you are looking for a set of the original Guzzi gears the oil pump gear is different from memory, straight shaft on one set up, tapered shaft on the other. I might be mistaken on that, dealing with that stuff was a lifetime ago.
Really though on a 50 year old vehicle worrying about the cam drive is a bit like worrying about the mouse hole in the skirting board when you're sitting in a room with a hungry tiger!😂
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Haven't lifted a spanner for the en-biggening of the motor yet but digging around in my 'Mountain of Munt' I did find the Tenni green bodywork and brown seat off one I wrecked out a while back so today I took off the boring black plastics, (except the front mudguard.) and played swapsies.
Much better than boring black and baboon's arse red seat!
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Waffling bollocks and lies from a Piaggio drone. They just open their mouths and a pyroclastic flow of irrelevant rubbish vomits forth.
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Neutral light switch.
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Youse blokes are so unlucky! I just got a PM from a 35 year old woman who is desperate for sex with a link to her nude pictures!
Bet none of you have got an offer like that before... Ever.....Or whatever......
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43 minutes ago, LowRyter said:
My buddy Darren had a 1200 Sport (Breva). The service tech used 20-50 rather than the required 10-60. He got the pressure light and had to go back for a change. I'm of the opinion, "likely excuse for a loose filter" but what the heck, that's the story. He had it changed to 10-60 and the light went out.
Again, I had no idea that these engines used anything but 20-50, so if it's the right weight, never mind. (It was a stretch anyway.)
Still, since it occurred after the oil change, I'd suspect something in regard to that.
One of the occasional bugbears of the CARC bikes is the gasket between the spacer and the block blowing out around the delivery gallery at the front. Easily fixed by fitting a thicker aftermarket gasket it seems to affect the 8V's more than the pushrod engines but the result is a significant loss of pressure.
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Replace the oil pressure sender switch, they are always suspect. Drop the sump spacer and the carrier for the filter, thermostat and OPRV, check OPRV is working correctly and replace gasket, (Also a good time to fit a sloppage sheet if you haven't already.) raise the idle to 1200+/-50.
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What's the deck height on those pistons compared to the V11? I thought they changed the rod length for the CARC motors? Could be wrong but if the deck height is too low it'll be a tractor. Run on kerosene but have the performance of a 1955 Fordson......
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Dear god no, don't wish that on us. The world, and especially Guzzi, does not need yet another prehistoric, pushrod powered shit-stick masquerading as a motorbike......
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If they are going to produce something *New* there haven't been any sightings around Mandello and that would be a first. There are always shots of new models being road tasted near the factory.
Having said that all design and development is probably done at Noale now so maybe people just aren't looking in the right place.....
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Yup I do, they've been invaluable Rolf.
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1 hour ago, docc said:
Thanks, Pete! Now I understand what you mean by a "peg socket." Those are commonly available as a generic SKF, as well?
Yup. I just bought one for the crownwheel nut.
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Yup, same same, just a different size. These nits and washers ar a generic SKF part available at most decent bearing factors.
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Rolf, on the contrary, I mentioned a very low torque for the nut. This is made particularly confusing because the manual, written in usual, rather vague, Guzzi fashion does mention a very high torque for a nut in the CARC but this is in fact not one of the crownwheel or pinion nuts, (They aren't mentioned because the whole reactive bridge is a non repairable item according to them!) that high torque is in fact for the seal holder which also compresses the outer races of the pinion bearings and seats them.
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3 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
Very good Pete. I recently had dealings with a lovely little stainless steel strap around 6 or 8mm wide and probably .2 thick plain finished with a small incorporated fitting on the end I had no idea of its workings. It was a very nice and compact and you slid the end of the strap into the fitting and it held tight as tight. Inside that little end fitting I later found out is a tiny ball bearing that wedges the strap. Is this the style you need? I was later told its the same design as a CV joint boot retainer. Very cool thing. Not reusable though.
Ciao
Nah, nothing so sophisticated. They're just a strap with a couple of bend down tangs after the buckle. You wind them down with a tightening tool, ($25 at 'Wottalottacrap Auto') bend the end over 180, snip the excess length off with the tool and then use the tangs to hold the end back at 180. If you want them tighter? Just wind the band around the shaft twice before tightening.
Hard to explain. Needs a video.
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3 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said:
Oh ok. Could you get some Loctite on the nut? You could use some wick in 290 on the nut even drop by drop on the end of a thin screwdriver. It's specifically designed to be applied after a fastener is tightened and it wicks it's way down the threads. It wont tell you if it's lost its preload ( but there's other ways to do that I'm guessing) but it will prevent loosening.
Ciao
Done that too.
Actually it is possible to remove the front boot and seal holder, (If you have the correct tool.) without splitting the case and then, in theory, you can do the nut and washer + Loctite trick without splitting the cases.
Problem with this is that the boot is retained by a 'Single use' clamp. Now it can be pried out gently and re-used. If you are very careful and smart! This is why Michael has developed a technique that allows him to do it successfully almost without fail when replacing failed pinion seals. Me? Not so much, I always screw it up so I prefer to split the case because then I can clamp the boot with a simple CV joint band when I put it back together. An operation so simple not even I can screw it up!
My modus operandi is to use the green Loctite when doing the initial re-torque of the nut and then I dribble a bit of 290 in from the top. Have I said why I don't want that f*cker coming undone again..........
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1 hour ago, Lucky Phil said:
No way to check it with say a flex boro Pete? To at least see if the lockwasher tabs are intact and not broken or bent. Like I used to do on Jet engines. We used to pull lock tabs out of the Mag plugs from time to time and use a boro to locate and monitor the issue. nice little articulated boro's are fairly cheap these days and I have a nice one I use connected via bluetooth to my Ipad or laptop.
Ciao
Oh you can see if it is still tight by peering down the seal holder and poking at the nut with a screwdriver. Problem is unless it is coming loose you don't know if it's still OK or is a poofteenth off loosing its preload!
Arse!
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V11 bevelbox is completely different. It's a real 'Weird Harold' design where the pinion is supported in a strange '2-Part/Combination Bearing'. It has a big roller bearing to take the rotational loads and then in front of it a caged ball bearing with a split outer race. I've never seen anything like it in any other application, (Perhaps Phil has?). It's a real exemplar of how Guzzi engineers used to approach some things from completely left field.
No, this particular issue doesn't occur with V11 boxes. Their major weirdness is the fact the pinion nose bearings always get starved of oil and they have that stupid needle roller in the outside of the box where the spindle goes through that will turn into a filigree of rust in weeks if you ride in the rain!
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Well yes, and no.
The thing is that to tackle it you really need to split the case. Then you need a special peg socket to remove the seal holder and then another peg socket to remove the nut after biffing down the tang on the lock washer. Then you have to replace the lockwasher, apply Loctite to the pinion threads and re-torque the nut to its very low torque figure and lock it. After which you reassemble the CARC.
Is it difficult? Not really, but the consequences of getting it wrong will be horribly expensive and there is no published torque figure, (That I know of.) so I just use the industry standard for these sorts of applications. If you don't know what they are and don't have prior experience it can all be a bit fraught and daunting. Put it this way. If you feel you are technically competent and would have no qualms about tackling a major engine or gearbox rebuild then I'd say probably yes, you could safely do it, (Cue someone to say their four year old does them in his cot at night!
). If though you find yourself stressed by doing your valve clearances and changing brake pads? I'd probably advise against trying it. Remember, Piaggio won't sell some parts even to their shops, and suggest that the reactive bridge is 'Non Rebuildable' which would seem to indicate that they think that rebuilding one is beyond the Ken of the average shaved ape employed in a 'Box Shop' dealership. Certainly if anybody does undertake it they do so entirely at their own risk and if the whole thing goes 'Udders Skywards' afterwards they have to be willing to wear the consequences of their own actions.
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Sorry, I used the usual method of posting pics. You'll have to chase them down. It makes my brain hurt.
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The bevelbox on the CARC system is generally pretty robust. The one Achilles Heel it has is the light preload on the pinion bearings supplied by the nut and the fact that it is held there simply by a lockwasher. For some bizarre reason Guzzi don't Loctite it and if the bearings settle or wear the preload is lost, the nut comes loose and things go pear shaped fairly quickly.
First symptom will be noise from the final drive on the over-run. If you notice this stop riding immediately. Not only could it preceed a catastrophic failure but also if you stop it there and then it may well be possible to save your final drive. I can't stress how important catching it early is.
If you don't and continue to ride the consequences may be terminal. Michael has just stripped Peter Hughes's box after he continued riding it for a while. Unfortunately it's fed bits of lockwasher all through everything and the results are terminal.
Sorry but there's no saving this one.
This is the pinion nose bearing. Most of the other bearings in the box and reactive bridge look much the same.
Now if you do catch it early and there is no crownwheel or pinion damage it is, despite what the factory may try to tell you, quite possible to rebuild the entire reactive bridge and therefore the bevelbox. My guess though is that very few shops would be willing to try it, either because they don't have anyone with the skills or for liability reasons. It's this sort of numbskull 'Built in obsolescence' that makes my blood boil and we won't have a bar of it. We can at least look at your box and tell if it's salvageable and if we can rebuild it you can bet your arse we'll be Loctiting the living Bejasus out of the pinion nut as it's preloaded so the bastard won't be coming undone again!
Oh, and as an indicator that this sort of repair is quite possible my box on my GRiSO played exactly the same trick. I caught it early, cleaned everything thoroughly and didn't even replace any of the support bearings! Just replaced the nut and lockwasher, Loctited and preloaded to about 120 inch pounds on the nut before bending up the tang on the new lockwasher. That was nearly 50,000km ago and it's still running silent and strong.
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Well, no tyres to be had in Dubbo so I rode it home, gently..... Rear tyre is now as bald as a badger's arse but not down to the cords. so much win!
It really was a great trip, (Appart from Greg busting himself up!) I really enjoyed it, even though a lot of the road was boring. I'm sure now that I'll enjoy touring on this rig. It gives me a great incentive to actually fix the carburetion properly!
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Well sadly things didn't turn out as planned. Greg Trowelled his Griso on pea gravel at the entrance to the Clermont Roadhouse. It was one of those stupid 'Touch the front brake and go down at walking pace' accidents. Griso got a scuffed rocker cover and busted gear lever. Greg rode on in great pain to Emerald but when we got there we had to call the ambulance from the Motel. They hauled him off to A&E and kept him in overnight. Next day x-rays reveal a cracked hip socket in his pelvis! Arse.
Peter rode back to Townsville to mount the recovery mission and I pressed on alone. Only problems I've encountered are one vast 'Whoopsie' from subsidence on the Gregory Development Road got the outfit airborne and when it landed it biffed one of the fork legs up through the yoke about an inch! Anyway, fixed that this morning, (And tightened the pinch bolts a bit more! They weren't as tight as I'd of liked.) that fixed that. Only other thing is it's eaten it's rear tyre! It was only about a third worn when I left. Tonight I'm in Dubbo about 1,800km into the trip and it's definitely not legal any more! It would probably get me home but 90% of all punctures occur in the last 10% of tread wear and I don't want to risk that so I'll see if I can hunt down at least a rear but hopefully a pair of hoops tomorrow morning. If I can get some that are made of industrial diamond I'll be fine with that......😆
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T3 955cc Cafe on eBay
in Older models
Posted
36mm PHF's with 36mm manifolds matched to the heads works well enough. Throw in a P3 cam and a set of LeMans advance springs for the distributor and it'll wake it up a bit. It'll still be a 45 year old ditchpump with a wheel at each end but at least it can make some pretence at being more than a dunger.
Personally I'd of just left it as a T3/G5. While they won't set the world alight they are comfortable, frugal and charming. They don't have to pretend to be anything other than what they are......