pete roper

(Sigh.) Guys. It really is a matter of minor consequence. As long as the threads in the casting are good you can use either and there should be no leaks. The Dowty seals are readily available, 3/8th if you can't find 10mm work fine. In most situations you can re-use a Dowty seal several times if it's a low pressure application like a drain plug. Alloy washers can also be annealed but the process is the exact opposite of copper and really not worth the effort. Buy some sealing washers. Use them. The End.

Nah. Griso 1100. The 8V-1200 is completely different.

The squarer ones like Phil's were used on the Griso and Sport 1200. They use a lead cover and a protective 'Puck' on the two outer, middle rocker cover bolts. The more round rocker covers were used on Bellagio, Breva, Norge and 'Breva Sport 1200' which is an odd parts-bin special. These use a single one piece lead cover.

These are not the same as Phil's. There are two late type rocker covers which require different HT lead covers. The differences are purely cosmetic but be aware.

One word of advice if you are using the later, final model, rocker covers, either Griso/Sport or Breva/Norge/Bellagio. Do not even bother trying to use the older type gaskets. For some reason, I have no idea why, these invariably split and get pushed out from between the cover and the head. While there doesn't seem to be any fathomable reason for this behaviour, the mating surfaces are identical, the fasteners are in the same place, it's just "One of those things"! Purchase a pair of the Valpollini *Metal* gaskets. They last pretty much forever and won't squeeze out.

The Bellagio uses a sort of hybrid Tonti frame, after a fashion. The other three frames are twin beam perimeter type using the engine as a stressed member. They're all steel and heavy as a very, very heavy thing but they are stiff and robust. Take a look at the parts diagrams and you can clearly see the differences.

Thee are four different basic platforms and frames in the CARC series. Griso Stelvio Norge/Breva/Sport Bellagio. While the swingarm, shock linkage and final drives are all identical the frames are all quite different.

I'm not criticising you. Just stating that the information given in the piece is wildly wrong and inaccurate. We did a full engine and driveline rebuild on a 750S a couple of years ago. The owner decided to call it quits before we got to the cycleparts or cosmetics but my oh my wasn't it a slow, disappointing POS. There is a lot of nonsense and folklaw promulgated about the 750 Tontis. Even more so than other Guzzis and that's saying a lot! The one huge advantage they have is they are really smooth and the rod/stroke ratio seems to work really well in this regard but they struggle to make mid forties HP while weighing as much as any other roundfin Tonti. They are grossly under carbureted as well which means they run out of puff when they should be getting into their stride and the camshaft, contrary to popular belief, is the same 'Lawnmower' cam used on all other Tonti's until the MkIV LeMans, (And before anybody starts telling me that the cam timing is different for the V7 Sport I suggest that they go back and look at the setting clearance difference between the Sport and the S. The Sport is a different cam but it's nothing special and yes, back in the day I graphed them both using the same setting clearance, they are very similar.). They are exceptionally pretty though.

Golly! There is a ton of piffle in that wordy diatribe!

You can't put roundfin top end on a T5 squarefin case.

Thanks mate.👍

Here's one I took today just coming back to Bungendore from Canberra. This is looking east, towards Canberra. The hills in the background are the Brindabella ranges. [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50774006347_c3149ab384_z.jpg[/img] This is the South East corner of Oz. I'll see if I can find some more remote ones later. Bugger, I forget the usual pasting of a URL doesn't work.....

How about a Kawasaki Z440.

All the roundfin Tonti's are basically the same apart from valve size, combustion chamber and piston dome shape and carburettor and port size. Pretty much everything else is cosmetic. Please don't hack up yet another lovely old T3 or SP. if you want to build some turgid 'Cafe Racer' start off with something shitful that nobody cares about.

I've never read anything by Falloon that wasn't shallow and full of inaccuracies......

I've no idea to be honest I'd think the main things to check would be rod length, deck height and stroke but there is also the matter of weight and balance.

Spring arrived Phil. What do I owe you?

Just the one Phil.👍

Yeah, I found him on Cheese too.👍

Anyone know if there are any still available? I haven't seen a post from him in a while. Hope he's OK? Chuck, if you're out there let us know you're OK. I know you've, (Sensibly!) been isolating because of the 'rona but let us know you're safe.

I sent you a PM? Maybe it didn't send properly. Email me if you like. motomoda.roper at gmail.com

Any shitty old laptop running an old version of Windoze will run GD, Reader and Writer just fine. You'll need the cables to connect to the bike. There are numerous threads on a host of boards about loading the programs and running them. Actually making changes to the map cannot be done with the Guzzidiag suite of tools. To do that you need to use one of the programs like Tunerpro where you can open the map and alter it. For most people, myself included, this is not something I care to undertake simply because there are others who enjoy it more than and also are immeasurably better at it than I ever would be! The results of their labours though can be easily installed using 'Writer' and if you don't like them then you can simply reinstall your original map which you will of saved with 'Reader'. The thing is these add on widgets that corrupt the sensor signals are not only very, very crude but because they only offer a 'Blanket' alteration of the map although it may improve fueling at certain points it can make other parts of the map damagingly wrong. There is NOTHING to be gained with one of them that can't be improved on markedly by using a properly built and designed map. That means one that isn't built by someone who believes that the maps are 'Made lean to pass emissions' because they aren't, they are almost universally rich!

If they say it 'Works' on all variants it is probably one of the shitty air temperature sensor foolers rather than a super-shitty O2 sensor fooler. Don't use these awful, crappy, damaging pieces of shit. Just learn to use Guzzidiag and 'Reader' and 'Writer' and find someone with a similar bike to yours who has built a map that works and buy it and throw it in. The 15M, 15M-RC and W5AM ECU's have been an open book for a decade. All these widgets are not only unnecessary but are often damaging. Just say no to bullshit solutions!

The Stucchi rear rack for the Griso is a dreadful, complicated and incredibly heavy bit of kit. I had one, along with the side rack mounts for Givi panniers. The pannier mounts were incredibly flexy and were held on by two 6mm bolts to the rack! On Oz roads I would of got <100km before the mounting bolts would of snapped and flung the panniers into the weeds! I gave the rack to Beetle and he fits it when he's going off for a weekend camping but won't leave it on because it's ugly as a hat full of farty arseholes! The weight isn't a concern on the 1400!