pete roper

No, don't sacrifice another lovely old T3 on the altar of this obscene, masurbatory, cult. If you have to build some pretend POS 'Cafe Racer' just buy some shitty Chinese copy of a 1980's Japanese single. It'll look the part when you're sitting at your stall selling your pomade and beard grooming products and all the pissants you're trying to impress will flock like moths around a flame. Just leave the old Guzzis alone. Please.

No nut is fitted to the top bolt ex factory.

It shouldn't be popping and crackling on the over-run.check the throttle stop screws for tampering. Valve lash should be 4 & 6 thou inlet and exhaust. When removing the plug caps to get the rocker covers off use a long, thin screwdriver through the cooling tunnel above the exhaust manifold to lever the caps off from underneath. Do not tug at them from the top. Before even thinking about touching the throttlebodies check that the paint on especially the left hand stop screw is intact. If it isn't you need to be able to connect diagnostic tooling, (ie Guzzidiag) to check the TPS value. If you're lucky it won't of been re-set and you'll be able to simply physically adjust the reading back to 4.8 degrees before starting the tune up. If the paint has been gouged out of the screw and it has been obviously fiddled with but the TPS value is at 4.8 then it most likely has been recalibrated and you're about to enter a world of pain trying to get it right again. The fact you say it vibrates as well as popping and farting on the overrun doesn't fill me with confidence but hopefully, if it has been shaved aped it will be able to be unfucked with diligence and care.

Possibly, but it's still BS I fear. What I can't understand is what these dyno owners hope to achieve by spouting such guff? It certainly doesn't give them any credibility. I'd try and find a different dyno shop. One that gives realistic results.

Hmmm! Yrrs! It's like people claiming they can get 130HP from an 8V Griso with a pipe, open airbox and a PCV.......... I scoff and break wind in their general direction.

I have a top of the range Hyperpro on my Aprilia Mana. The stock shock, and forks, were utter shite. Front end wallowed, back end couldn't even try to hold a line! I invested a bit of cash in the fully adjustable front end off a Gen 2 Tuono at the front and the Hyperpro at the back. While it isn't a scalpel it's pretty close to a rapier and given the original set up was less like a cutlass and more like a combine harvester I'm really more than chuffed. Hyperpro make a good shock.

Errrrrr? That is exactly what they did with the Cali 1400 motor apart from the fact it uses a hi-cam motor rather than pushrods. The twin TB 5AM setup used on the 1200's is, IMHO, much betterer.

When does it pop and bang? Under load? On the over-run? At idle? More information would help.

You can download the map using 'Reader' turn off the lambda input and then change anything you like using Tunerpro and upload the finished result using 'Writer'. Power commanders are so last century Darling!😁

While the 15M is primitive enough that a decent outcome can be achieved with a PCIII the RC is going to present problems because unless the lambda input is switched off it doesn't matter what you do to the fuel mapping in the closed loop area, (Constant throttle, sub-4,000rpm up to about 1/3rd throttle.) the ecu will just trim out any fuel that has been added by the PC taking you back to exactly where you started. Outside of the closed loop area the map is almost certainly rich so if it's been set up correctly or unless there have been some seriously stupid modifications the PC should be pulling fuel out at most points rather than adding it.

If the UJ trunnions are the same size as those in the CARC bikes I can give you a Hardy Spicer number.

I'd imagine so. It's a 6x1.25 thread I believe, using a taper tap, at least at first, will allow you to chase the good threads lower down and the the parallel part of the tap will chase the buggered bits. Finish it off with a bottoming tap. If it's only the upper couple of threads that are mullahed it'll probably come good.

Have you tried just chasing them through with a taper tap?

That will be the pinions lashing about in the box. Balance the TB's and make sure the idle speed is 1100 rpm or so and it will probably be better.

Yes, the 'Chinky-Chinky-Chinky' sound when the clutch is pulled is made by the intermediate plate teeth rattling in the flywheel splines as the flywheel accelerates and decelerates with the power pulses of the engine.

You need a couple of burly mates to help lift the frame off the motive unit or you can slip the engine off the gearbox by pulling it forward. There's a lot of work involved. Replacing the clutch is not hard but if your mechanical skills aren't up to much it would be better to farm it out. Before you go all in it might be worth pulling the swingarm and checking the clutch thrust bearing but I'll pretty much guarantee it's the clutch going west.

It's torn the center out of one of the friction plates. When the other one goes, (Soon.) you will fail to proceed. New clutch. Don't buy Surflex.

There's always going to be moisture in the case. Water is one of the major by products of combustion and blow by means there is plenty in the case. The whole idea is to try and prevent it condensing into water while it's in there so it can be expelled. I actually have an identical thermostat to Mark's sitting in my van at the moment but right now I simply can't be bothered to fit it. I very rarely ride in the rain any more and that, more than anything else, will have the oil temperature plummeting! As it is my Griso idles at about 1400rpm and evening in 40*C ambient temps, in traffic, it has never dangerously overheated it's oil. Unless I get caught in the rain the oil temperature will hold at 75-80*C and a few minutes in traffic will have it up around 100*C in short order even in single digit ambient temperatures. Yes I think a thermostat is a great idea and I think it is unfortunate that they chose not to use one in the cooling circuit of the 8V but for my usage nowadays I don't really worry about it's absence.

Don't be. Apart from anything else it should be remembered that the original big block motor was designed to sit idling in Milan traffic in high summer with a fat Carribinieri sitting on top of it! Just about the only relevant changes to the design are the adoption of fuel injection and, with the advent of the Squarefin motor, even greater fin area. A thermostatically controlled oil cooler is a benefit but more so the faster one is travelling. At slow speed or a standstill the difference it makes is marginal. Yes, modern engines run hotter but in all my years of working on them I've never seen problems caused by overheating as long as the lubrication system is working as it should. The Nuovo Hi-Cam motors as used on the CARC series bike do have an issue due to the sump spacer gasket blowing out on the lubrication side. This results in a loss of pressure which can cause damage but such a failure usually makes itself known by the camchains starting to rattle as the hydraulic tensioner plungers are starved of oil. It has caused big end failures but is fairly rare, (Although I replace the gasket as a matter of course during rollerisation of an 8V. There is a very much superior aftermarket gasket available that completely eradicates the problem.) just something to be aware of. It is NOT something I've ever known to affect any of the 2V motors. As for heat? My Griso in high summer will heat its oil to >135ºC in traffic. It's never caused me a problem. Conversely I worry more in winter as it's damn near impossible to get the oil above 75-80ºC due to the cooling circuit not being thermostatically controlled. Yes. Try to avoid getting stuck in traffic for hours in high summer but I wouldn't die in a ditch over it. The excessive heat is far more likely to cook the phase sensor than cause metallurgical or lubrication problems.

Have you read Mark's instructions over at Griso.org. ? If not do so. It might be worth reaching out to him as well. Despite his reputation he doesn't bite!

No, this plate is for the 'Broad sump' engines so the Centauro, Daytona RS, Sport-I and V11's. I'd also add that unless you are really a hard launcher it is unlikely you'd need one on one of the five speed bikes simply because of the way they are geared and their unlikliness to wheelie.

I really can't remember. When I was working in London the V75 had just been launched. It was one of the biggest grenades ever! The shop sold one to a bloke in Bristol, he picked it up and it dropped a valve before it got to Reading! They did that a lot!

In which case they aren't quite as much of a grenade......

Well that's interesting because that one is a 2 valver.

I thought it was. So it's a grenade. Do a lot of research and fixin before you ride it. Look for information from Chuck, Jacksnracing, and a few other hard core 4V smallblock masochists for info. Chuck will also probably know other names? Who was that Scandinavian nutter? GuzziBlue or some such? Barking mad but very knowledgeable.