pete roper

All good Phil. Mario had them in stock, along with input and output shaft seals. where can I buy a new friction plate for the RAM single plater. He reckons he'll only be doing a couple of thousand Km a year so it'll probably be OK.

Oh I know the lockwashers were missing. Here they are! [/url] 🙄😝

Got this gearbox in from a Rosso Mandello. its been apart before, recently I'd guess. When Michael pulled the back off the box.... You can see where the nuts have tried to mill their way out of the case! Repeat after me. "I will use Loctite and torque these nuts properly."

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Better than that I've got Rolf's super-marvey deep sockets which I'm certain are about a zillion times better than the 'machined from cheese and then subjected to a softening technique to make them really useless' factory ones! Of course you can borrow them but we've got that gearbox from the Rosso Mandello coming in this week and we'll need them to pull that POS to bits. Nag me next week. Once we have it apart we'll almost certainly need to order parts to replace whatever it is that's dying in there so while they are coming by Trireme from Europe I can get the sockets to you and hopefully you can use them and get them back before our bits arrive! pete

Thanks Phil.

That would be appreciated. I know the sintered plates wear quickly. I was considering seeing if I could get the plate re-lined with an organic material

This bloke with the Rosso with the buggered gearbox appears to have an aftermarket single plate clutch I. It with a sintered bronze plate. Now I know these things wear out in no time but if I can get the plate re-bonded with an organic compound I reckon it'll be sweet BUT I need to know the nominal plate thickness. Any ideas? pete

It's not so much the windage, although it will help with that. It's oil surge under hard acceleration. The oil pick up in the 'Broad Sump' motors is at the front to the right of the sump. If you launch hard the oil sloshes backwards and can expose the pick up. This can be noticed by a flickering oil light but chances are you aren't going to be looking at that if you're nailing it in first and second gear or the front wheel is off the ground! A few events like this and you'll run the big ends. In the worst case scenario the rods weld themselves to the crank which is fun! You then have to cut that crap out of the case with a gas axe. Not fun!

I'd bloody well hope so otherwise I'll have to find out who has nicked my design here and go and put a turd in their letterbox......

If you plan on riding it as it should be ridden install the plate quick-sticks.

As some may know the CARC bikes use a remote breather from the slave cylinder to a bleed nipple up under the seat. I'm sure it would be very easy to fabricate something similar for the V11 and it makes bleeding the clutch a breeze.

He's off at the Ragged Fringe Rally this weekend so if he doesn't get back to you immediately just be patient. He will reply.

Sport-I's use the 'Broad sump' the same as the V11. The thing is because of the taller gearing in the lower gears in the old five speed box the issue of oil surge and pick-up exposure doesn't seem to trouble them. This isn't to say it couldn't happen, just that I've never heard of a Sport-I running its big ends due to pick up exposure, (Or a Centy or Daytona RS.). That being the case, while fitting one is extra insurance it probably isn't necessary. The carb Sports still used the old 'Deep Sump' with bottom feeding pick up so exposure isn't an issue. Pete

Mark, (Beetle.) can be contacted at Griso.org pete

Have either of you blokes with clutch problems tried using the adjuster on the arm at the back of the gearbox? If the adjuster is set so that it's too far in the arm will be too far back and may be jamming on either part of the frame or the swingarm and preloading the thrust bearing and pushrod. pete

Well, I'd just like to say a big 'Thank you' to 'Pressureangle' who today dropped a not insignificant amount of money into my paypal account. While handing over manufacture of sloppage sheets was not something that I was expecting to make any money out of really the last year has been pretty tough for my business with my understudy Michael busting his back and becoming a paraplegic setting up a 'Cripple Friendly' workshop has been both time consuming and expensive! Particularly as diminished income meant there was less tax money to use as write-offs for new tooling and equipment! While Jude and I are far from paupers the bank accounts, both business and personal, have taken a severe pizzleing this year. The cash injection is greatly appreciated. As well as the filthy lucre for me for every plate sold there is going to be a donation made to MSF for all their excellent work so please, if you need a plate buy one from Eric rather than the thieving twats in Huddersfield who stole the design and copied it without even so much as a 'By your leave'. Pete

Ooo! Now you're getting kinky! Would you like to see my podge bar?

It's not the key per se. It's the fact that the key is recognised by the dashboard. If you bypass the ignition the dash will still lock you out unless you know the previous owner's user code, which in this case isn't known.

Currently there is a thread going on over on WG concerning a a Norge that is for sale with no keys. It's clean, low Kms by all accounts and all that is wrong with it is it doesn't have a key so it can't be started. Because the keys are coded to the dash it means that it needs a new dash and lockset to get it going but as I've explained in the thread you can get the pair of them, dash and lockset, for about $7-750. The bike is for sale for $1,500 and nobody over there wants it! It's insane! Anyway here's a link to the thread.... https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=102566.0 if I was coming over again any time soon I'd be all over it like jam on toast! Somebody save the poor thing! Pete

That always confused me a bit as I've never had to modify anything..... (Shrug?)

Excellent! I reckon even I could do that!

ECU56 is the speedo sensor. Has it been wet where you are or have you recently washed the bike? Early sensors were prone to water intrusion at the join between the cable and the 'Block'. If you remove it and dry it with a hairdryer and then seal around the join with silastic it may solve the issue. If not buy a new one. They aren't terrifically spendy. Diagnostic code for Griso is 12425. pete

Fantastic! Thanks Rolf. I think the chances of me getting any help, or even information, from our importer here on an 18 year old motorbike is nonexistent. I'll try today but I'll bet you anything I get the bum's rush so if you want to part with those bits I'll probably be in the market. Customer is coming up next Wednesday. my email incidentally is motomoda.roper<at>gmail.com Thanks.

OK, so next question is what are the major parts needed ,ie the bits that fall to pieces, needed to rectify said clusterfuck? Yes, any seals and gaskets, (Although from memory the original six speeder doesn't use gaskets?) but what are the explody bits? Part #'s or just a parts diagram with arrows would be good. I see that Guzzi suggested 8-9 hours for the repair. I fart lavishly in their general direction! pete