pete roper

If a seat comes loose it will drop quickly, it will then jam between the valve and the head, the piston will then hit the valve and shatter it leading to carnage that has to be seen to be believed. I've seen it. Having just trawled through this thread's last six or so pages all I can suggest is a last nut and bolt strip and inspect and a full 'Zero Time' on the engine. So much has been done to it piecemeal there is no way it can be known to be right unless it is ALL done right. When the crank was out were the rods closed and ground or just bunged back in with new shells? If they weren't then there is one huge glaring failure right there. And what about the little ends? Anybody check them for out of round or ovalisation? Has the oil pump been removed and inspected/measured? Mention has been made of the cam chain being reluctant to disengage from the cam sprocket but nobody suggested replacing it! Look, I'm not being critical, everyone is trying to help, but with typical Red Suspender frugality the attempts to *Save Money and Effort* have simply resulted in an twelve page ongoing testament to failure. Start again. Buy some good measuring tools and DO IT RIGHT, Pete

Because there is a limit to how far you can bore and stroke the engine and crankcase capacity means that if you increase the swept volume much further the pressure differentials in the case would become untenable. The V7 and V9 frames and cycle parts are almost identical apart from the swingarm and final drive. The current V9 motor with two valves is obviously a stopgap, you can see it from the head and rocker castings, whether they plan to do anything that might actually be interesting I don't know, but I'm not holding my breath. Pete

Also make sure you use a Viton seal not a Nitrile one. The Nitrile one won't take the heat, Pete

The reason an 8V Griso engine will make a noise if the oil pressure is low due to a ripped gasket is that insufficient is being delivered to prime the cam chain tensioner plungers so they can't tension the chains and then the chains themselves flog about whacking the tensioner blades about. The pushrod motors don't have a hydraulic tensioner so it's not an issue. If the pressure drops you'll get the light followed by the 'Dogga-Dogga' noise and wailing and gnashing of teeth! Try rotating the rocker spindles on the offending side through 180 degrees and re-setting the clearances to 4 & 6 thou and see if that helps. Pete

It sounds like it's grossly overfilled with oil for starters! Have you checked the level correctly? A Smallblock doesn't need a sloppage sheet as it's a 'Semi dry sump' design with a cast in baffle plate in the crankcase. Pete

The 1100 Sport doesn't really need one unless you're using it at the track. The V11 does though and I've just done another run. PM me yer address and I'll tell you how to pay. Pete

I've ridden Guzzis, big block and small block, all over Europe, Australia and the USA. Not just piddling little 'Round the houses', "I'm going for some milk" trips and you know, I've NEVER had one not get me home! OK, it's been close from time to time but they are so bloody strong that even when they are quite severely broken they'll keep going! Thing is they rarely get that bad. They warn you about f they're about to go 'Udders Skywards' and usually a long way in advance. An exception to this rule is early 2V smallblocks and any 4V smallblock and even they let you know they're sick because the exhaust valve clearances start closing up. While Chuck is obviously mad, (Don't ask him about that horrid thing he does with a pheasant and the tube of mustard!) and has an unhealthy fascination with Larios which ARE a grenade unless completely re-engineered, he's 'Paid his dues' Guzzi-wise and anything he says can be taken to the bank, (Where it can be put in the safe deposit box with what is left of the pheasant and the note of explanation from his lawyers.....).

Just on the topic of using grease in the oil pump? I've actually found that this can be counter productive as it tends to hinder the ingress of oil into the teeth. I can remember, (Barely!) a couple of early 850T3 rebuilds where I had to actually had to drop the sump off again and then spin the engine over on the starter while forcing oil up the pick-up gallery with a drum pump because they failed to prove, even with the grease trick performed. Once forcibly primed they got pressure perfectly once the sump was back on. (Shrug?)

Since I'm no longer an 'Official' service agent I've lost access to the Piaggio parts system but I do have one of the crappy plastic elbows in my spares stash at work. I'll try and remember to get the part # off it on Tuesday. If I forget? Feel free to nag. Pete

Who? Me?

Do you mean the elbow on the fuel pump is broken? It's available as a spare part for some Aprilias but not for Guzzi. Don't be fooled into buying a new pump! Pete

My procedure on the earlier bikes with kingerlite gaskets is to do the initial torque, then run the engine up to operating temperature and let it cool overnight. When cool re-torque. Then ride it until the first service interval at 500 miles/800km and re-torque again, (Engine cold of course.) and that's it. Never touch 'em again. With the modern laminated steel gaskets it's set and forget.

Don't try and do it in situ though.

Piss the Power Corruptor off. Un-needed and outdated technology, the 15M and 15M-RC are an open book, there are a host of mapping options or build your own. Pete

Oh for @#!#$#'s sakes.....!

(Ahem!) someone PM'd me and pointed out the cost of the sheets had gone up a lot! Yes, it was a typo! Sorry, well not really a typo, more of a brain fart actually. Anyway I've corrected it. Sorry. Pete

I've just had another run done. Scud wanted ten so there are seven more available. $120AU each plus shipping which I think comes in at about $27 from memory. Anyone interested can paypal me. motomoda.ropergmail.com Tim, I'll PM you tonight about the bulk order. Pete

Mark can supply a map that will make it run much betterer!

There is one on both TB's but it's always the one on the left that gets fiddled with, the RH one is much harder to get to. Pete

The target idle of 1250+/-50 is hard coded into the ECU and cannot be changed. The ECU monitors the idle speed and uses the stepper to add more air if it detects the engine speed falling or closes cutting air off if it detects the idle speed rising. So did you fiddle with the stop screw or not? I'm not clear on that.....

OK, did you re-set the TPS after fiddling with the 'Sacred Screw'? If not then you can simply look at what the TPS reading currently is and turn the screw back until it reads 4.6 working on the assumption that it was correct in the first place. If you did re-set it? Can you remember what it was sitting at before? Pete

I put in an order for fifteen today, I found two in the back of the workshop. Not sure of price yet but given the fact the $AU is in the toilet at the moment they will probably be no more expensive or cheaper than last time....

I break wind energetically in his general direction!

Well Scud's asked me to do a batch so I will and send them to him, then any of you lot in the northern hemisphere who want one can pester him! My visits and contributions to V11.com aren't always regular as I'm more actively involved in CARC and most particularly 8V stuff nowadays, (They have basically been my muse for the last eleven years!) but I try to make the plates available on a regular basis. Yes, there are doppelgängered plates available, probably cheaper, from the UK. It just depends if you're happy giving money to thieves! Pete

Yes, fuckers! But they have to live in Huddersfield, poor bastards!