pete roper

Jan, a couple of things here. There is what I believe to be a common misconception about the cams in the Grisos. Because the part number has changed people assume that the MY10 and on bikes have cams with a different profile. If that was the case I would be astounded if the machine was expacted to run with the same map, but ALL Griso's are still shipped with the #52 map. The difference in the camshafts for the later machines is I believe soley that they are shimmed for end float. The MY11 bikes may also of adopted the new cambox design which has been developed to eliminate leak points. I'd also love to know how they would 'Adjust the injection'? AFAIK there are no ways available to break the map encryption to allow the actual map to be modified. At least none that are cheap and readily available. A PCV/AT is also IMHO not a brilliant sollution for the Griso due to the very long cam overlap. The reliance on EGA to control the mixture is fraught with problems on this motor with these cams. I would strongly suggest that before you can the idea of the Termi you get the #68 map uploaded remembering that after this is done the TPS mustbe re-set, ballance the throttle bodies, (Once again if adjustmant is made to the high speed ballance the TPS must be re-set again.) and try running the bike in otherwise stock trim with the dB killer INSTALLED. In this trim my bike makes 104.8 RWHP, has no dip in the midrange detectable by the rider, doesn't pop on the over-run unless I feather the throttle and delivers 20km/litre fuel ecconomy at highway speeds. Pete

There has been a lot of talk about the 'New Cams' in the Griso. While I can't be certain I believe that the PROFILE of the cams hasn't changed, it's still the same as the original A5 cams, but what has changed is that some time in '09 for the MY '10 production year the factory changed the design of the central boss that carries the lobes so that end float in the cambox is now controlled by shims rather than relying on the sometimes haphazard machining tollernaces of both cams and cambox castings. The reason for this change was to quieten the motor down mechanically. As any owner of an early 8V knows they make a hideous racket from the top end all of which is down to cam end float. erradicating that by shimming not only quietens the motor but also seems to have stopped dead cam/tappet failures, (Although I know of no failures on machines that had the recall done properly and had the correct oil used in the motor afterwards.) MY '11 bikes have had further changes to the cambox and 'Plug Tube' design to help erradicate leaks but AFAIK the cam profiles remain the same. Certainly *newer* bikes seem to fuel up better, (The X2-O2 sensor bikes are horribly civilized) but my feling is with the Grisos with only X1-O2 this ismore to do with better set-up ex-factory than any major changes to cams or fueling parameters. Pete

I'd not been following this thread, or I'm afraid the board, much recently but I'd have to say that at this point the only way you're going to get a resolution is to stop frigging about and pull the gearbox, get it on the bench and take it to bits. Before you do this though I'd have a close look at the clutch. Given that all the crap with the spring boss and cam-plates looks OK and the problem occurs with heat I'd be looking at the clutch. Firstly it should be ensured it's bled properly with DOT4 fluid, then if that fails to sort it the box has to come off and the clutch itself examined. I agree with Hubert that the V11 box is pretty much bulletproof and likes the dark! Regardless of whether the problem is box or clutch related the simple fact is that at this point the box has to come off. Piss-farting about won't make it get better on its own. Pete

My mate Jon Margrave has one off his very low mileage LeMans available. PM me and I'll put you in contact. He's on holiday in Mexico at the moment but will be back in LA soon. His price will be very reasonable. Can I ask? Is your driveshaft aligned properly? If not that will be what killed it. Make sure when you install the next one it IS aligned properly. Pete

The 'Factory' tool is a massive and substantial piece of machined steel, but for doing up an oil filter? Complete overkill! Most 'Wottalottacrap Auto' type shops do pressed steel cap wrenches that are up to the task. Problem is they do tend to be a bit flimsy and if the filter doesn't want to come off it can be a pain. Given how little *stuff* there is to shed crap into the oil with any Guzzi motor and the fact the filter is HUGE in capacity I only swap mine every third oil change which for me is about every 20,000Kms. If I have to drop the sump to get the filter off? Mehhh! I've done it on every other Guzzi big block I've ever owned. Why should I have kittens about it with the 8V? Just make sure you have a sump gasket on hand as the original will almost certainly tear. Retail for a sump gasket here? Twelve bux. Once every 20,000Km. If that sort of thing is an *issue*? As I say to my customers, "You're riding the wrong motorbike! Get a Toyota Corolla!" Pete

A couple of years ago the filter changed from an 8 flute to a 14 flute design. I got a bunch of 14 flute filters but then the last few shipments I've got have reverted to the 8 flute design. Blokes in the US like Todd at MPH say ALL their filters have been the newer 14 flute design for ages. I have no explanation as to why I, in Oz, get 8 flute filters? FWIW cap wrenches for either design are dirt cheap. If you can't find one locally at 'Wottalotacrap Auto' tell me which one you want and I can pick you one up for about $20AU and send it to you for what it costs me and postage. Or, if you want 8 flute rather than 14 flute filters? Gimme a how. I've got boxes of 'em! Pete

You're right. Responding to you is a weakness. I'll try and do better. Pete

Thing is Wentz I said that precicely because it is the sort of deeply offensive, hyperbolic bullshit that you specialize in. Of course when YOU say something like that there is always some sort of feeble excuse as to why its perfectly OK. Your comparison to the kitten and string is an obvious example of this mindset. At the end of the day you are a poisonous onanist who revels in upsetting ad destroying anything you come close to. I'm just calling you on your BS. Suck it up. Pete

Needless to say this is a typical reaction to once again getting thrown off another board for being a self obsessed, narcicistic tool with delusions of grandeur. I wouldn't worry about it. Some folks think there might be some sort of psychological or psychiatric problem that needs to be addressed. I think not. There is just a not a very nice person who likes inflicting himself on others and having few, if any friends in the real world has to do it via the innerneck. Probably a personality not far removed from the Norwegian Nutter but hopefully a little more 'Contained'. Pete

Not by a 'Poor little rich kid' window cleaner from Seattle with a handfull of parts from Pep Boyz and 'Wottalotacrap Auto' and a ravishing ignorance of the laws of physics they can't! Pete

The cam lobes and tappets are fed by splash. Any failure of oil pressure due to pick-up exposure or lack of oil generally would of killed the big-ends stone dead long before the tappets and cam died. what may of killed them is the clearances being too tight causing the tappets to ride the cams. while most people are aware of the danger of a valve burning if the valve clearances are run too tight cam and tappet damage is also a very real possibility. At least replacing the tappets and cam is pretty straightforward. You don't even have to disassemble the top end of the motor further than removing the rockers and pushrods. Remove the sump. Open the timing chest and remove the timing gear and phonic wheel and then after you've got the rocker gear and pushrods out joust pull the cam. The tappets will drop out. New ones can be inserted via the front cam bearing on the end of a big phillips screwdriver and glued in place by a libberal application of grease to the tappet so it won'tfall out. The new cam can then be inserted and secured, the engine re-timed and the timing chest buttoned up again. Re-insert the pushrods and rockers. Set the valve lash, re-install the alternator and rocker covers followed by the sump. add oil. Go ride. Pete

Sorry to read about more of your misfortune w/ this bike, BFG! WRT protective bits, maybe the Stelvio parts would fit? I'm not certain how different the Quotard models frames are, but it may be worth looking into. Maybe you could find someone w/ a Stelvio that popped for the protective parts who can get together w/ you for a weekend of parts swapping to see if they'll fit so you can find out if they'll xfer or not? Best o' luck! There are crash bars available for the Griso. Dan has them on his SE in Florida. They don't even look too bad. I'm considering a set. Pete

It's a 35 year old motorbike. Have the atomisers and needles ever been replaced? Pete

It'd be good if it was! He'd be able to buy something else or even a new 8V that hadn't been completely screwed over by a retarded f@ck-knuckle! I dunno if its a write off or not. Depends on what its worth. Just for comparative interest I'll list some parts prices in $AU retail. Cambox-$443 Rocker arm-$330 Rocker cover-$337 Plasic bling for back of rocker cover-$20. Also one of my customers had a lower damage impact on the same side and needed brake lever $173, Toe peg, $30 and rubber $8 from memory and we priced up the oil cooler cowl and it was a whopping $433 so he's living with a couple of minor scratches.If there is head damage? Well I can't bring up a price on a head but I wouldnt expect any change out of a grand. While I haven't seen all the damage I'd be surprised if its totaled. Bikes cost a lot more in the UK and other places than they do in the US so what might be a write off in the USA could easily be seen as repairable. It would be good if it was a write off though. Pete

Yup. Luckily for you with the RH cylinder you can just take the tank off and pull the plug off the inside of the barrel to release the tension and remove the tensioner plunger. It's only blockheads who have to get in to the left side that run the risk of busting the tensioner!!!! Pete

All the pics seem to be here Dave. http://forum.guzzitech.com/forum/196/3381.html If it was running on both cylinders you won't of bent a valve, or at least its highly unlikely.As for the 'Grub Screw' I think you'll find its a plug for the end of an oil gallery drilling. TAking off the cambox is really quite easy. DO remember to loosen the two 6mm bolts with 8mm heads that hold and clamp the back of the cam chain tunnel before you undo the main head stud nuts otherwise you risk warping the head. Pete

Nah, all the Grisos are the same. Airbox lids are dirt cheap if you want to experiment. Pete

Unlikely to have trashed the cam. But chances are the rocker is toast and there may be damage to the cambox. Pete

Dave. after a lot of frigging about I've found that my Griso Verde runs best in stock form with the airbox and snorkel left alone. As for pipes? The Griso Pinko had a Mistral Hi-Pipe on it and it felt very, very similar to the Termi equipped Verde. It too had NO airbox mods. I know that people are spending large sums of money on map modifiers and othe 'Technology' to try and get huge improvements out of the 8V. Thing is mine runs very, very nicely, as did Pinko. I just can't see any point in taking things further. My bike does everything I want of it. If I wanted 'More' I'd buy another bike. As it is I love my G just the way it is. You'll probably find that most of the aftermarket pipes, (Perhaps with the exception of the Staintune.) will work OK, especially if you aren't tempted to run 'em with the dB killer out. Pete

Dave, while I've always been affeared of cambox damage in an impact of this type. I think its drawing a pretty long bow to say that Guzzi 'Designed in' a problem. You aren't supposed to crash! Would you say they had 'Designed in' a problem if it had slid into a tree and bent the forks??? Pete

Have you tried AF1? They're usually cheaper than me and I can do you a lock set for $300AU. Pete

Dave, I just fitted a set of these to my G. Much improved action to the originals. http://shop.ebay.com.au/i.html?_nkw=griso+levers&_sacat=0&_odkw=hkdrpro@gmail&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313 For 5ifty bux the pair delivered to my door they are bloody hard to go past. If you want some originals I have a spare set that are undamaged but slightly 'weathered'. Pete

Isn't that the bit where you have to take care of little o-rings? Hubert There are two o-rings on the spigots the thermostat/filter mount slides on to. They're Viton and I've yet to see some that weren't supple and re-useable. Check 'em obviously but unless they have become brittle or look damaged I'd say send 'em round again. HAving said that they are hardly expensive so if you want to cover all bases? sure, replace 'em. pete

Disconnect the oil cooler hosesand the return pipe. Drop the pan, undo the 14 bolts around the flange and the four that hold on the filter/thermostat munt. Pull Filter/thermo munt back and down off the stubbs on the flange and the drop flange. Pete

Front main thrust face going west? Pete