pete roper

I had two SE's in last week, didn't get pics unfortunately. By all means buy the Cent, they are great fun, just don't bother with trying to 'Hot it up'. They have plenty of mumbo in stock trim. When I get around to buying an 'Old' Hi-Cam it'll have to be a Cent. DAytonas are lovely to look at but I've never been a 'Clip-ons and Rearsets' sort of guy. A good Cent will put out high eighties/low nineties RWHP, my 8VG makes 104 at the rear wheel. Pete

'C' kit incuded a variety of non-ordinary bits, most important though are the cams and the (Still crappy.) ECU mapping. If you relly want to work 'magic' Cliff's MY15/16M controller is the way to go BUT IMHO a stock srtandard Cent is the best of all worlds as far as the 'Old' Hi-Cam motor goes. The 'A' kit is great for the road. If you want 'More'? Get a 1200 Griso. Cheaper than fucking about trying to 'Hot-Up' a Cent. More reliable and easier to work on too. Pete

Email sent.

Ear protection? Yes! Or she'll end up as deaf as her stupid Dad! But a helmet? She may look like me but she's by no means that ugly!!!! Pete

My daughter is a vegetarian, soft and sooky, loves animals and is studying animal science at Cornell. Luckily she's also barking mad and very pragmatic. She'll try just about anything and Jude and I reckon that she wants 'It All' and knowing her personality and drive she'll probably achieve 'It All' as well. Most likely by the time she's 30!!!! Anyway. She'd never touched or fired a gun in her life before she went to the US to study. So what do her friends decide she needs to do during the Fall break? She's off to Kenya soon to count wildlife. These skills could come in very handy methinks!!! Pete

No, the clatter you get is from the crappy single plate clutch tryng, and often succeeding, in beating the flywheel to death. Since the clutch and flywheel should be dry no oil change will fix the problem. If there is undue knocking from the gearbox it will be a combination of too low an idle and unballanced throttle bodies. Once again, changing the oil won't tune the engine. Pete

It is painfully obvious that you can't have a 'Bar' going through from one side to the other. There's a f#cking driveshaft in the way! While the dealer/mechanic who told you that is obviously an idiot I'd advise you to examine your machine a bit more carefully and think about 'How it works' a bit more. If the dealer was so hopeless I'd definitely be checking the driveshaft alignment as well as they probably don't have a clue about that either. Pete

Well, that ould have to give you the shits wouldn't it! For what it's worth Ben this bloke in TX is selling an 8V-Gfor 8&1/2 http://forum.guzzitech.com/forum/162/5539.html Don't know the bloke or the bike but an 8V-G meets your criteria. pete

Yup, be VERY creful about the frame, Check as well that the timing chest isn't cracked where the frame bolts to it. V11's DON'T crash well. If you're interested I'm going to be wrecking out the remains of my mate Johnny's Scura. The Ohlins have the top-caps a bit scraped up but otherwise they appear straight and good, rear shock, (Also Ohlins.) is also finme. Johnny was killed on it last year so don't buy if you are superstiscious. Pete

As long as the trunnions are greased regularly they will last pretty much forever, (Providing the shaft isn't run misalligned.) The same can't be said for ones that do not havegrease nipples. Early 1100 Sports didn't have provision for greasing and their shafts do fail whereas the later shafts with nipples are fairly impregnable.From your post it is hard to discern whether you mean there is actual play in the crosses in the caps or if you are simply reffering to sloppiness of the yokes on the splines? Any play in the crosses and caps would indicate that that the couplings are shot. The pinion bearings should have zero end float and therefore no slop. If you have slop your crownwheel and pinion will be toast. If the driveshaft has been incorrectly alligned there is a very good chance that there will be damage to both the splines of the pinion and the gearbox output shaft. Even on bikes where they are correctly aligned it is not uncommon to find busted splines on these shafts, it's one of the reasons when they started the V11 series the new six speed box and bevelbox pinion got the 20 spline shafts rather than the 10 spliners of earlier bikes. Pete

Always a good look you bog-trotting throwback!!!! I love the west Coast of Ireland. While jude and I are actually hoping to go to Madagascar, (NOT on a bike!!!) next year we really have to get back to Ireland, Northern Britain, (You can stick the south up yer arse, horrid place.) and Scandinavia soon. That coast is one of the very few relatively unspoilt bits left in Europe, when my big kids were small we had several stunning holidays there and I also spent time there when I was young and single. It is still gob-smackingly beautifull, the word 'Awesome' is not out of place in that context. Pete

Sorry gentelmen, I just realized I have asked this question previously "crankshaft interchangability" but really never got an answer. Perhaps someone has a new take on this topic. Just off the tio of my head the stroke is the same and they both use a Ducati alternator. Ipso facti they should be interchangeable. Bearing sixes have been the same since God was a boy. Pete

http://www.servicemotoguzzi.com/public/com_tech_1/comuAprilia/Common/en/016-2010.pdf

while doable I would of thought that the fairing of the sport would foul the Hi-Cam heads? Could be wrong. Ceantauros have 'Rilos and all the fruit. Pete

Gladly. email me. motomoda@optusnet.com.au Do be prepared to spend. Pete

If its an '08-09 it'll have the A5 motor hich is the 'Full house' Griso donk with the more radical cams and, if its an '08 the early rather ordinary fueling unless the map has been upgraded. To the best of my knowledge ALL the 2010 8V motor are A8's. Interesting thing with the Grisos is that although the cams have been changed there are, as far as I know, no changes to the mapping from the 'Original' awful map that the earlier bikes came out with but the new ones run very sweetly straight out of the box. My 'Guess', and this is pure supposition, is that the bike was originally going to be released with the A8 motor but in that trim it didn't quite make the 'Magical' 100RWHP figure that everybody says is neccessary. So they increased the lift and duration of the cams but didn't bother remapping it. It produced the magic 100 ponies at the rear wheel but ran like a dog in the midrange and bottom end! Now the broo-ha-ha about the new motor has died down they've quietly reverted to the A8, 'Softer', motor and it makes for a much nicer motorbike. I've ridden 2010 1200 Sport 4V's and 2010 Griso 12's with he A8 motor and being brutally honest although I really like the way both my A5 engined Grisos go and won't swap them if I had a choice I'd go with the A8 motored model which is almost turbine like in the way it delivers power from nothing to 'Oh Shit!' territory!. The A8 was first released in the Stelvio NTX but now seems to be a universal fitment to the entire 4VPC range. Pete

Unless it was created by Microflacid, in which case it would be the engine from a V35C with a dropped valve. Pete

Depends on what motor and mapping you have in your 2010's. The new A8 motor is mre softly tuned than the previous A5 motor and in my experience runs very nicely straight out of the box. Most of my Stelvio owning customers are very happy with their A5 motored machines but they *may* need a bit more fiddling to get 'Just Right' though. If I had the option I'd be buying a 2010 Griso with the A8 motor, well I do have the option but I'm very happy with my A5 motored bike and can't be arsed to spend more on the swap. Pete

What I'd like to know is why when Aprilia drop a bollock, (Having three out of your four demo bikes throw a rod out the case on a track in Spain is, in my book, a fairly large bollock drop.) they get an imediate world-wide recall for ALL motors on the early RSV4's even though only about 30% were affected but when Guzzis have a problem caused by CHEAPSHIT bean counting we are told to make do with an 'Engine Flush'?? @#!#$# off. It's bollocks and makes me want to weep with frustration. 95% of the fucking dentists who will buy an RSV4 for their trip to the cafe once a month would be FAR better off with a Guzzi than an RSV4. But which marque gets the push, pimp and chunder........ Bollocks!!!!!! I REALLY like the Nuovo 8V. it's a grouse motor and deserves more plaudits than it gets. The Griso package particularly is superb, (And I'm being objective here, you know I'm a 'Griso Nutter'.) I'm just ground down by experiences like Dave's that should be entirely avoidable! None of my customers' bikes would be allowed to be treated like that. It's business suicide!!!! Pete

Sorry, a C&P of my reply to Dave on Guzzitech Yeah. Fucking brilliant eh? The red gauze filter is the ONLY filter for the cooling oil and, I think but I'm not sure, the top end. The other pick-up is for the bearing delivery oil which IS filtered through the conventional spin on filter but i think that the camboxes are fed by the high volume, low pressure, cooling side. while this seems counter intuitive old Suzuki GS's f'rinstance had rolling element cranks and plain bearing top ends and ran bugger all oil pressure to the cam bearings so I imagine it's all been thought out reasonably well. I have to say Dave that it makes me very glad that my tappets never failed. I also would be HIGHLY skeptical of whether the oil pumps had been inspected as getting to them is a much more involved job than it is on a V11 or earlier Tonti simply because of the need to remove the alternator before you can get to the timing chest cover. Pete

The guides are sintered phosphor bronze, presumably rapid wear is an indicator of the relative proportions of the sintered alloy being a bit 'How's yer father'. Even so 20,000Kms is avery low to have excessive wear. K-lining is the best option. It doesn't require removal of the guides and so concentricity of valve and seat is maintained meaning less material gets removed from the seats when they are cut to the valves. Our race bike runs a much more radical cams than the V11's and guide wear is not a problem with K-lines in. It's a far better option than re-guiding unless the guides are loose in the heads. The carbon deposits on the inlet valves may be the result of either an overly rich mixture due to poor tuning or the fact that the ETS is getting a false signal, (This has been discussed to death in other threads but I generally find that once the ECU is getting an accurate signal things are usually better.). Another alternative might be that the breather system isn't functioning properly. Try removing the hose from the crankcase, cleaning the ball valve and flushing the frame after disconnecting the condensate returns with Kero and then blowing it out with compressed air. If the breather and return isn't working then more oil than should be will be being thrown through the airbox and will contaminate the incoming air and charge leading to deposits on the valves. Pete

When Jude and I were in the area about ten days ago I saw a V11 flash past us in upstate NY just after we'd crossed over from Vermont on the ferry. One of ony a few Guzzis I saw on the trip apart from at the DY rally and when I met Guzzi folks. I think it was a Lemans or a Greyish 'Naked'. Any of you lot?? Pete

Yup, Jude and I will be there but not for all that long as Jude'll have me nuts in a bin-bag if I make here hang about in a field full of pissed idiots for a whole weekend!!!! Pete

What made them diagnose a fuel pump problem for a misfire that only occurs just off idle? Kave the plug caps been replaced yet? If not I strongly suggest that you bin them and fit a pair of NGK SB05E caps and see if it makes a difference to the problem. Pete