pete roper

Errr? Well? the way I read it was, "No, it's not right, but don't worry about it. It won't do any harm." In my humble opinion this is incorrect an dangerous information so I'll argue against it till I'm blue in the tits. Please don't tell me that you're now going to get up on some pompous high horse about me being 'Common' and using 'Bad Language'. That would simply be the icing on the cake Pete

Smallblocks also only use one coupling. They have a very soft cush drive in the rear wheel. BMW's have a shorter suspension travel and a longer shaft and the forces imposed on a driveline by a single Hookes coupling working at an angle are very much less than the forces imposed by two that are misaligned. Whether you believe this or can understand I give not a fig but I DO worry that your comments may lead people to think that driveshaft alignment is unimportant and not something that should be treated with care. A few years ago there was a bloke who posted here who was having handling problems with his Balablio. He was at the point of selling the bike but just happened to drop past my workshop and I noticed that his shaft was misaligned by only one spline. we fixed it on the spot and he saw fit to mention here how suddenly the bike's handling had been transformed. The forces imposed by misaligned trunnions ARE susbstantial, more than enough to seeriously upset the handling of a 200KG+ bike with a 100KG rider on board. as the shaft winds up and unwinds as the suspension moves those forces will work on the rorque arm and, because every action has an equal and opposite re-action, on the driveline of the bike. I understand FULLY what is happening in that situation and how dire the consequences can be. As usual Hubert, you're wrong, and as in so many cases your statements could have dangerous outcomes for people who choose to listen to them. Pete

Jesus Hubert. Do you have to disagree with everything I say just on principle? If the trunnions aren't aligned as the suspension moves up and down the shaft winds up like a bloody great torsion spring. The forces are considerable and WILL damage stuff. Sorry but as usual you're talking worrying piffle. If it is so unimportant why the hell do you think every manufacturer since the dawn of time who uses Hookes couplings in driveshafts, (Like all rear wheel drive, front engined, cars.) build their driveshafts with the trunnions alligned? Because it looks prettier? Gimme a break. Pete

My thought exactly Dave. The forces exerted on the shaft and universals is enormous if the trunnions aren't alligned. It could be a manufacturing fault as well though. Pete

As posted on Illuminati here is a translation of what is being offered for those unfamiliar with pommy 'Food' Battered Mushrooms- The 'Cook' has trodden on them. Breaded Mushrooms- As above but then rolled in sawdust. Peas- something green and liqueous in a styrofoam beaker not dissimilar to bile. Beans- Something orange an liqueous in a styrofoam beaker not dissimilar to the sort of thing that long term TB sufferers cough up. Carton of Curry- Box of something orange. Carton of Gravy- Box of something brown. Tea/Coffee-Cup of something thin and grey. Milk- Something over-processed and white. Pete

What a retard! No doubt when the clutch burns out he'll start crying warranty I was waiting for the shot where he embedded it in the side of another vehicle. Pete

Nah. It was actually getting the poxy things engraved that was a 'Huge Problem' for me . Coding the buggers is easy, you can code up to six of the bastards if you wish, at least that's my understanding. Plug 'em in. Punch the numbers. Go ride. Loose key. Find nearest spare is hundreds or thousands of Km away! Brilliant! Pete

Good grief! How in heavens name did you manage to do that? No, to the best of my understanding the way it works is that there is a coil in the 'Ring' around the lock this creates a magnetic field and although weak it is sufficient to create an EMF in the chip in the key which then sends it's 'signal' back to the switch for recognition. No battery required. Coding the keys is easy. Go into the menu and then scroll down to 'Enter User Code' if it is a new bike or, I presume a new lock. If that doesn't work you'll have to go to 'Change User Code', enter the service code 12425 and then it will ask you to enter the new code, swap keys and enter the new code again. I had no luck getting keys cut locally here in Oz. I bought some spares from Todd and then when they arrived all the so-called locksmiths in Canberra said their engraving machines needed a factory code to do them and they didn't have that. I thought this was insane but they simply weren't interested . Anyway, I sent 'em back to Greg at MI in Seattle and he got 'em cut for me. At the end of the day it was much quicker, cheaper and easier for me to do that than it was to chase my tail here. Bloody stupid! pete

While I hadn't considered it I think Greg hit the nail on the head when he said that they should have the V7 tank on the Bellagio running gear with twin pipes. For those of you who haven't had the chance to ride a Bellagio, (It isn't imported to the USA ) that package is by FAR the best of the *new* pushrod bikes outside of the Griso and if you stuck the Bellagio donk in the Griso you'd have the absolute pick! The 'Custom/Cruiser' styling of the Bellagio doesn't appeal to some but ide one and they really are FAN-BLOODY-TASTIC!!!!! It's the shortest stroke big-block ever and if you wring its neck it lifts it's skirts and flies!!!! I reckon with a more 'Sporty' styling package they could sell a motza, especially if they call it a '1000' even though it's a 940cc motor but it wouldn't be the first time they've done that and, at the end of the day, the only people who really care about such shit are gay pirates and bank clerks! Pete

Nah, it's a tappet issue. Why else would only the tappets be replaced on zero mile bikes? I also took failed parts to the Australian Mint for testing the cam was an acceptable 60 Rw but the tappets were only 39Rw. Hubert. 8 valves, forked rockers, 4 tappets. Pete

Yes it's typical, if you buy from an 'Orforised Dealer' who charges MRR. My cost from Guzzi is $909. I can supply for about $700, Mario can do the same. At least last time I bought one that was about the price. For most things for bikes over a couple of years old Mario is the bloke to talk to. Thunderbikes in Perth. 089 379 1991. He also happens to be a really nice bloke and as honest as the day is long. Pete

Hella 1056 or 1057 fits most Guzzis. Nah, it's not perfect 'cos you cant alter the sideways beam but as long as the bucket mounts aren't bent it usually works just fine. Ingrams also have cheap AM parabolic reflector ones. Pete

A photoshop job I'd say but within a couple of years you'll get something similar. The 8V will be going in all the big-blocks before long, it's the only way they'll be able to meet emissions standards. Oh, and it may well have a bigger capacity. the spigot walls on the cylinders of the 1200 are about an inch thick. They'll be able to *bore* it another 4 or 5 mm without trouble. Pete

No idea! It started blowing TCU fuses. I swapped bikes, bought it back up here, it had 3 stored error codes one of which was for the Can line on the TCU. No problems since (Grrrr!!!!!). I think I washed it too hard because it was being lent out! Pete

And if you or one of your German speaking mates could translate for me I'd still like to look at costs or options Paul. BTW, Alex Pera came and borrowed my Aprilia and it immediately started blowing TCU fuses in sydney . It had previously been 100% reliable. So I did the cam work on my 8V and then took it up to him in the van and swapped bikes. So he's been riding around NSW on my Griso and, by all accounts, having a whale of a time. A whole new meaning to the term 'Flying Dutchman'!!! Seeing as he usually rides a Cali III I can imagine the 8V would be a bit.....errrr.... Different Pete

Probably the same bloke, dunno, but I'm still pissed I couldn't get that system as I think it's drop-dead gorgeous! Pete

It is, BFG and I have the same pipes on our bikes and it is IMHO too loud by far. I do have a DB killer for it but the problem is the mapping is so absurdly rich that I'm reluctant to restrict the enine any more than it currently is. Once gain the old saw of us with the w5.9AM computer really NEED a good map modifier to get the best from the 8V engine. The 15M equipped bikes are more than adequately catered for Pete

Good idea. seriously. Mine spent 1/2 an hour bouncing off the rev limiter before I did the recall work. No damage. Yours should be the same. Pete

Not if their tappets started disintegrating. Then they trashed themselves completely. Look, If it was my engine and I found that sort of damage I'd be having it apart. Unfortunately it doesn't look like Dave is going to get that option. To my mind that's a shame as he is being asked to take on trust something that defies the rules of mechanics. I still maintain that there will be particulate damage. The bloke that worked on it claimed there was no frag evident in the engine. All the ones I know of that have failed seriously the cam-boxes were full of shrapnel. If you loom at the pc of Dave's failed cam there is something that looks bloody like particulate crud right next to the lobe on the right. Plenty big enough to do damage to the pump but small enough to fit through a mesh filter. OK, I know what I know, no point in pursuing this any further, it's not going anywhere. Pete

Here are some of my comparatively undamaged bits for comparison. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3640/348146..._df8fd42133.jpg? http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3331/348143..._a4ab5b6e6b.jpg? http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3617/348220..._5c419c1044.jpg? http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3347/348215..._35f8b0034d.jpg? That one is of one of the new tappets to try and show the differences, it isn't very clear, sorry. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3602/348217..._43a54ea3c9.jpg? For some reason I can't actually get the pics to load so you'll have to click on the links Pete

Well, you could, but that will require removing the sump again and getting new rod bolts. I've been trying to find a way to post the 'Lubrication' pages from the manual but I'm too stupid. The long and the short of it is that both the cooling and lubrication pumps are filtered..... by strainers. These will take out bigish lumps until they clog but they won't take out bits anything like small enough that they won't do serious damage to the oil pump, The front rotor in the pic above is the cooling rotor. It delivers oil to the oil cooler which doesn't appear to have a thermostat so oil is being pumped through it ALL the time. The rotor closest to the wall of the case delivers oil for all the bearings, including the cam bearings, via the replaceable cartridge type filter. From the look of it this supply will also be responsible for the under-piston jets. So, theorretically, the bearings should be protected UNLESS the filter goes into bypass mode. Whether this happens, even when the oil is cold, I'm not sure as all the filters I've ever cut open show no deformation of the ellement but whether this will happen depends on the design of the filter. Time for me to cut another one open for a good squizz methinks. This doesn't alter tha fact that the pump will of been sucking shit and articulate matter will of been flung all through the motor by windage and cyclonic forces from the spinning crank. I maintain from the look of the cam cournals on BFG's cams that there is SUBSTANTIAL damage to that engine. We won't know for sure until it is stripped and inspected but I would be almost certain that mos of the bearings are toast. If the cam bearings have been recievingcontaminated oil so have the mains and big ends. Pete

To-whit; Note the previously mentioned twin vane construction. But what would I know? I'm a scaremonger. Guzzi probably have 'Secret Spectacles' available only for the annointed few which allow you to look through metal from the sump Pete

The sole and ONLY way to get to the oil pump is, and always has been, to remove the timing chest cover. With the 8V and other models with the alternator in the valley the alternator has to be removed, the belt un-hookedand the lower pulley removed prior to removal of the cover. This NOT the belt cover,it is the cover BEHIND the pulley. Once this is off you will see the gear-train that drives the oil pump and the dummy shaft that carries the cam chains. On earlier pushrod bikes the cam which runs in the place the dummyshaft is driven by a chain and inspecting the pump requires removal of the entire train of sprockets with the chain. While i haven't done this to an 8V motor my guessis that on this engine you can just remove the pinion that drives the oil pump and then the pump can be un-bolted from the timing chest and inspected. There is absolutely NO POSSIBLE WAY that the oil pump can be accessed or inspected from the sump. The manual is available on the Servicemotoguzzi site but since various forums and people have been thretened for publishing public stuff on the net from that site I'm reluctant to link it. I'll burn you a copy if I can off this new disc I got sent, (Working on my Mana today, forgot to bring the disc from the shop...). essentially though the bottom end design is still virtuakky identical to the earlier bikes with the exception of the twin-vane pump and oil jets. The real question is which bearings and parts are fed by the unfiltered delivery and whether or not the bearings that are so supplied are damaged. It is obvious from your pics that your cam journals are shot. For that to be the case the bearings in the camboxes have to be full of shit. End of story. Pete Pete

Are your driveshaft trunnions alligned correctly? Pete

This is a straight pull from a reply to Dave on another board. I think it relevant. Now my 8V manual CD, (Or at least I hope that's what it is.) dropped onto my doormat on Friday) so I'll be going through and double checking this but my understanding is that one side of the new twin vane oil pump delivers high pressure/lower volume oil and this provides the feed for most of the plain bearings as on the older pushrod motors BUT the other vane provides lower pressure and greater volume for the top end and (?) under piston jets. Now regardless of the fact that the oil pump is still going to be picking up unfiltered oil so it'll be garbage can anyone explain how these two deliveries could be sent to a common filter and then separated again to perform their separate functions??? Rather defies the laws of physics dunnit? Also, while the bloke who did your work dropped the sump for a looksee I'd confirm that he also opened the timing chest as that is where the oil pumps reside and you cannot even SEE the pump from the sump, never mind inspect it properly as it lives on the front of the carnkcase inside the timing chest and has a dirty great gear on the front of it. To me it simply sounds like you're being bolloxed about by another retard. Did you sen him the pics of the cams from your bike? did he make ANY comment on the state of the cam journals??? Pete PS. The fact he can't even see that the oil pump is still going to be picking up frag, even if theoretically it would be filtered out, (Perhaps on the second of third circulation if it's small enough to pass through the bearings/jets fed by unfiltered oil.) I think clearly indicates that he doesn't have much of a clue about mechanics and certainly hasn't a clue about the vagaries of his own product. Hubert. You consistently seem to assume that the factory and its repreresentatives never make design mistakes and always act in the best interest of their customers. You denied that the oil pick-up problem ever occured on V11's and practically accused me of selling an un-neccessary product for obscene profit, something that I'm afraid I find laughable. I do find your attitude to what could be an issue not just of reliability but of safety not only based on ignorance but also, quite frankly, cavalier in the extreme.