pete roper

If no one over there wants them and you don't I'll stick them in my inventory.

Doc's observations are the most relevant. All the blocks essentially have the same oil gallery layout from the late 850T to the last of the Cali 1400's. For it to WORK you could basically bolt any old shit on there and it will do the job as far as a sump for holding the slimy stuff goes. The problem is the physical dimensions and the other parts involved. As already mentioned there is the matter of the width of the 'Broad Sump' spacer as illustrated above. Other things to consider would be the need to buy the associated oil filter and OPRV mounting scaffolding and the fact you would have to add an oil cooler and/or provision for a bypass to return the oil to the circuit if the thermostat kicks in. I don't believe the Quota's used an oil cooler? Then there is the issue of oil pick-up exposure, but being a five speed this probably isn't a huge concern but I'd be tempted to fit a sloppage sheet if I was doing this on something like a Quota. If dropping the sump is really such a chore there are alternatives. As well as the one mentioned above Harper's have made an 'Outsider' extension for years but I don't know if it would foul the Quota exhaust or, alternatively, you could simply use the sump and filter/OPRV mount off a California 1400 or post 2015 Griso. This last option will not only give you an easily replaceable filter but a lower profile sump making it more sensible if you are mad enough to actually take a Quota to anywhere it's going to use its full suspension travel! I personally never had an issue with removing the sump at filter change time in 30+ years of riding bikes with the system. I just thought it was *Normal* and the way it was. It's only 18 M6 bolts for heavens sakes. It's scarcely akin to the Labours of Hercules!

Might be a bit of an issue Phil. On the CARC bikes the bearings are in the frame.....

About two and a half hours to strip and inspect. Make it three and a half if the bearings need swapping out a setting the outer cones out of the frame is a bit of a frontbottom. On the bearings? The bearings themselves are common as muck and cheap as chips. The problem is they have a strange sealing system around the edge of the inner race and I've not in seventeen years of looking been able to find an aftermarket replacement. If greased properly on assembly, ie packed absolutely full of high quality 'Waterproof' marine grade grease they will last a very long time, especially if they are re-packed every year or two. It's not something that will need to be done often but it does need doing. At the same time the shock linkage bearings on both the wishbone and double conrod need the same treatment. If the bearings or pins are found to be history it's best to rebuild the wishbone but while they are available it is about the same cost to simply buy a new double conrod, (Grease it before installation.) than buying all the individual bearings, seals and pins required to rebuild the buggered one. If the wishbone bearings are rusty or seized check the web of the wishbone carefully for cracking as well. Dont forget to add a coup"e of drops of Loctite 'Super Wick-in' to the threads of the pinion nut while the bevelbox is off.

Wholeheartedly agree, I only made it through about half way and had to get up to have a shit.........

I may be wrong but I think the V11 lid and the Cali 1100 lid are the same item. Check numbers but I think they're identical.

Remove the intake snorkel on a Griso and it makes a perfectly satisfactory intake honk. Mapped correctly you'll also get a tiny bit more bottom end and midrange.

Yup. DeTomasso sold them in various markets under various brand names. I even know of one from Singapore that was badged as a Motobi! I had a mate who used one for regularity runs. It was a hoot. Just nail the throttle in fifth and never touch the brakes! They made zero torque so the only way to make progress on them was to wring their tiny necks! The clocks were in a panel on the tank, (Visible in the pic.) which made getting the tank off an enormous pain in the arse! I nearly bought one in the '90's. I'm so glad I didn't!

Almost certainly, but there is a V7 thread on ADV that is active and useful. While I'm hoping to be riding my Grisos and Mana for a few more years my body is telling me those days are numbered and for that reason I'm looking at a V7 for down the track. Only a V7-II. Last of the Herron head motors, six speed gearbox and the Stone model has cast wheels. Sure the suspension is crap and the brakes only *Adequate* but by the time I'm riding it that will be all I need. When it gets too much I'll get a Vespa! Love me some Vespa!

Ride by wire.

I hate them.....

Just remember why the Carabinieri always hang around in threes. They need one who can read, one who can write and one to keep an eye on the two intellectuals!

Nice! Needed a loop and a V100 to round it out. Amazing looking at that, fifty years! The Tonti seems like only yesterday! Fu*k I'm old!

Move the thermistor lower in the tank, simples!

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TDC=Top Dead Centre. It occurs twice in the 720 degree cycle of the motor. Both times the piston is at the top of its stroke it is at TDC but on only one occasion are the tappets on the base circles of the cams and that is when you adjust the clearance.

Moto, running the 50mm throttlebodies without adequate filtration will kill them stone dead in next to no time. Believe me, after working with them for fifteen years I have a lot of experience in this. TB damage is one of the major Achilles heels of the 8V CARC bikes and the problem is, I'm certain, one of the reasons the Cali 14 went to a single throttlebody with plenum system.

How cute! It's got tiny bellmouths and no air filtration on the 50mm TB's so they're buggered before you've ridden it more than 1,000km. It also has a wheelbase that dwarfs a stock Griso! It would be like riding a hearse! A flexible hearse with a hinge in the middle!

Another really important thing is to make sure you actually have a 20AH battery in good condition. With the bikes that use a YTX 20-CH BS a common problem is that owners, and shops who should know better, fit a dimensionally identical 16AH battery instead of the 20. This works, for a while, but once the battery begins to deteriorate it can end up causing arcing at both the relay and solenoid contacts and you get the dreaded no-start problem. I don't believe this is an issue with Norges and Sports as much as they use a different 20AH battery but it would be worth double checking what you have installed.

Yup. What makes you think it's the relay? What is it doing?

Thing is, since the adoption of crank/cam triggered timing sensors the marks are essentially completely irrelevant. You can establish top dead centre, or close enough to set valve lash, by observation or, if you've done it a few times, simply by *feel*. All that is required is the cam lobes be on the base circle while you are checking the clearances. What are the clearances for after all? On bikes with points or a distributor of some sort you needed to know where TDC was and where the static and full advance marks were on the flywheel when you were strobing them but since the advent of electronic ignition and ECU's all that is unnecessary because all the needed data for engine management vis-a-vis spark and injection timing is controlled by a phase wheel behind the cam sprocket,(On V11's and the like. Why the persisted on still marking the flywheels right up until the advent of the CARC bikes I have no idea? Force of habit probably! Ignore any marks. They are utterly irrelevant!

Engine temperature sensor. It's the blue thing screwed in to the back of the RH cylinder head in a plastic holder.

The ETS is notoriously fickle as it sits in a plastic holder and usually has an air gap between its tip and the base of the holder meaning it gives a shitty reading. You can, with care, add some sort of thermal paste beneath the sensor but one has to be careful as it can expand and crack the holder. If you can replacing the holder with one of the brass ones used on machines like the Daytona and Sport-I and packing that with paste is a safer option but a full tune up and ascertaining if the ETS signal is even remotely right would be the first port of call.

Rollers.

Nope, secondary timing is always going to be belt dependent.