pete roper

No easy pics on Google. Got some weird results from Yak Udders though!!! Pete

Sorry. I thought it was time for another nipple pic. Pete

DAve, one of those sets of pliers is on its way to you right now. Pete

Posted on Guzzitech, dunno why I bothered, I'll probably just get insulted by a 'tard for doing so. Plug caps for 8V motors These are known to be a right bastard to get off without damaging the caps. Mario in Perth has also had experience of them simply failing in service as the spark arced through the insulation. It seems that you can snip the caps off and then use NGK plug caps with the part # of SB05E (Maybe with the suffix of 89054, I scribbled that on a bit of paper and don't know if it is relevant but better you have it. I've forgotten the details.) These apparently have an angled top but WILL fit under the plug lead covers and cost a LOT less than a new set of leads, although everyone will be getting a set of *New* leads with the cams and tappets apparently. OK. Back to other stuff. see ya. Pete CARC boot clamp replacement. Anyone who has to take a CARC apart for any reason will find that the clips that hold the boot to the torque arm are basically a 'One use' type. If you're careful you can re-use them but the reults can be less than stellar as far as sealing is concerned. The clamps are not sold separately. You buy them with a new boot and the price is absurd, something like $350US I believe. Most times unless you're a retard the boot will come off un-injured, all you require is the clamps. I've tried to find *thin* as in 7.5mm wide hose clamps of a suitable size but with no success, at least locally. But today my tiny, peanut brain must of chimed in on an extra cylinder as it suddenly occurred to me that Universal Joint boot clamps on most small Japanese shitbox cars are about that size. A quick trip into 'Wottalottacrap Auto' got me a couple of clips for the princely sum of $1.50 AU. They work perfectly. Pete

Here's another beauty!!!

Sorry. I thought you blokes liked a comely pair of udders? Pete

Oh well, I'd better rectify that;

Hmmmm. Interesting, since the oil pumps reside in the timing chest, not the sump. To check the pumps you have to drop off the alternator, unhook its drive belt, remove the crank pulley take out the frame bolts and then take off the timing chest, (You may have to remove the ECU too, not sure about that. Haven't done it yet.). Once the chest is off you can remove the oil pump gear and then the pump for inspection. Yes, it's a bit of an embuggerance but I'll be doing it if there is any hint of damage to my cams/tappets when I do the recall work. Dropping the sump should basically be de-riguere in any situation whare there might be bits floating about in te oil. Pete

God's teeth! 37 bloody pages! Surely the horse hasn't just been flogged to death it has to be just a bloody smear on the pavement by now Pete

So it's a rod issue then What's the stroke on this thing and what are you revving it to? Looks like the MEPS is too high. Install a rev limiter or get a longer, stronger, rod. Problem is that when you put in the plate it'll screw with the camchain length. Do the sums first. Pete

That's him!!!! Thanks Slamovir.

motomoda optusnet.com.au. Not wanting to be negative but unless a miracle occurs a decent second handy isn't just going to drop from the heavens and there are no aftermarket alternatives yet. I was lucky enough to snap up the one off Steve's wrecked Griso but it is being used by Todd for development purposes so isn't available. Other places to try would be Ago's and TLM and that nutter in France who wrecks lots of Guzzis, (Can't remember his name?) but if time is of the essence I can do it better than NZ and quite quickly. Pete

As I said elsewhere I can get you one pretty quickly and cheaper than the NZ price. Importer here has, (Or had.) one in stock, I could have it to you in a week or so. pete

There's none so blind as thems as don't want to see Fish.... Pete

The Oz importer has heaps of pics of everything from mild wear to total destruction. Unforunately they won't let me publish them. On the one hand I can understand why but on the other hand I always feel that full disclosure is best. Dunno if I posted it here but I did get some failed parts and had them tested at the Oz mint which is an impecable metalurgical institution using a beakers machine and the tappets are way too soft, (Cams are fine @ 60Rw.+). I also think that a mistake was made in that the tappets are un-radiused and there is no camber on the cams to impart spin and no off-centreing of the lobe but the most obvious culprit is the pete

It's more complicated than it seems. Tex has consistently been one of the funniest blokes posting anywhere on the net. I've had the privilege of breaking bread with the man and he is every bit larger than life as he appears. The 'Gay Black Dentist' was one of his masterpieces over on WG.

Heed what Greg has said about other damage. Any of the early spineframes with the 'Pork Chop' side plates with holes over the crossmember are VERY prone to cracking the sideplates in a fall, no matter how minor. These may be invisible stress fractures that are not readily detectable by eye. The big issue is that if one of the plates fails it will usually do so in a 'High Load' situation, ie when cornering fast on a bumpy road. The sideplates are what hold the swingarm in place, if one breaks while you're in transit you have a MAJOR problem on your hands. If it was mine I'd be pulling off the sideplates and getting 'em crack tested. To do this you have to drop the swingarm off anyway and since you're up to that point anyway I'd simply pull the transmission, weld the plate, shim the selector drum and replace the crappy 3205 ATN9 bearings with AC3's. It'll allow you to check the pinions for damage at the same time. 5th gear is particularly prone to it. If the case hardening is dodgy replace it with the helically cut, 5 dog, gear and it's mate from a late model Cali. Pete

When the little red warning triangle lights up what is showing in the bottom of the dash where the voltage reading is when the toggle switch is in 'Mode'? If a globe goes out or there is a poor connection in the harness there will be a little picture of a bulb and an arrow pointing to whichever side if it's an indicator globe. Also thetriangle flashes when you exceed the pre-set RPM point for 'Maximum revs before gearchange' this is set at 6,500RPM at the factory, if you haven't changed it yet and are taking the bike above that that'll do it. Make sure the servicing dealer knows how to re-set the TPS with the Axone or whatever they use. All the 4V Grisos seem to come out of the facory with the TPS set wrong. Once right it will stay right unless you bin the bike and bend something but it's worth getting it done right in the first place. TAke all the slack out of the throttle cables, that will help with driveline backlash, odd though it may seem! Pete

Tex sold his Stelvio soon after he bought it for health reasons. The current situation is grim and not really a laughing matter. pete

Before you spend big bucks try replacing the needles and atomisers. Pete

While I stuck in a brief application in reality I can't take the job, I have an octegenarian Mum in Law to look after and we are ensconsed 'Down Under' for now. If we were all thirty years younger it would be a different matter but reality has a way of creeping up and biting you on the bum. best of luck to all of you who have applied pete

Yup. The early sports had the most atrocious earth path imagineable through lots of corrosion prone or painted parts bolted together. Run an earth wire from the instrument/fairing mount to one of the timing chest bolts and then get a bloody great earth strap from an auto parts store and run it from one of the bell housing bolts direct to the battery negative terminal making sure it doesn't foul the rear shock. Betcha the problems will go away. pete

It's one of the reasons I'm not taking mine out for long runs at the moment. Once I had ascertained that there was a real chance that there was something wrong with the build quality and perhaps a design fault as well, (I'm perplexed hat the tappets are truly 'Flat' with no seeming radiusing and the cams don't seem to have any compensating measures to keep the tappets spinning??) I decided I wanted to change mine BEFORE they had a chance to go tits. It's not so much that any swarf and particulate matter is laible to damage bearings and the like, they are adequately protected by the oil filter. The problem is that there are two oil pumps. one for lubrication and one for cooling. They are both BEFORE the filter and only the delivery side for the lubrication is, I believe, filtered. That means that the oil that goes to the cooling jets is un-filtered and particulate matter *could* block them. In theory at least. Certainly on any bike where the cam/tappets have failed my bare minimum would be to drop the sump to see what is in there. I have to say that I think the idea of simply flushing the motor with a couple of litres of oil is absurd. In cases where damage has been extensive and the machine has been ridden to death I'd want to check the oil pump too unless somene could convince me they had seen enough faied motors with no pump damage that it wasn't needed. Pete

OK, I'll pay that one. Pete

Looking at them I hardly think it fair to call them pushrods. Dumb-bells for squirrels more like Pete