pete roper

Peter is/was married to Alis. I can't see him quitting unless they've bust up which would be a shame. My guess is they just need another english speaker. Pete

Ah, Ok. I see where the confusion was coming from. when people talk about 'Setting the tappets' because the adjusters are on the rockers you assumed that those bits were the tappets. No. The tappets are the bits reffered to as the 'Bowls' that the pushrods sit in. Yes, if the foot wears completely away the pushrod will drop out. I think in the one that I saw pics of that had been ridden to death this is what happened. The rod jammed against the cam lobe an dthe cam sprocket shattered and the chain snapped. What I couldn't understand is how ANYBODY, no matter how mechanically inept, could keep riding a machine to that point of destruction, it would of been incredibly noisy!!! As long as the pushrods are untouched though they should be OK. Any doubt? Slap in a warranty claim. Pete

I've applied . Really, I have. time for Jude's sister to step up to the plate and mind Val and my kids are grown up or on the cusp. I'd do it. Pete

Why not? For f@cks sakes. It's not a huge job. The factory will pay us about 3 hours per bike I think. I'd guess that after I've done a couple I could probably knock one over in less time than that. Anyway? Aren't dealers/service agents OBLIGED to do recall work regardless of place of purchase? I know that this can be a sore point as it tends to lead people to buy where it is cheapest and then get the warranty done elsewhere and yes, that is a REAL pisser, especially if it is some sort of huge shitfight like Bill Hagan's oil pump detonation on his Norge but swapping out the cams???? Please!!!! Get a good shop to do the work and then reward them by buying all your bits off 'em and getting any other major work done by 'em after warranty expires. Pete PS, I wasn't implying that Bill bought his bike elsewhere and then had the warranty done by the 'Good Guys'. He bought from MPH and MPH did the reconstruction..

There y'go. What you're looking at is the top of part #13 The dinky little pushrod, part#12, sits inside it. Wghat happens is that the broader 'Foot' on the base of the tappet gets worn because of the inadequate case hardening and, (Well, this is my belief.) the fact that it wasn't radiused and the cam isn't designed to impart spin any other way. Once the wear starts it is VERY rapid. The cams will be biffing the tappets 3,000 times a minute at 6,000RPM and when the very hard (60+Rw) cam starts rubbing one the cheesy Pete

I reckoned that was what you meant. Those are the tappets, no, there's friction, there always will be when something goes up and down in an 'ole, (F'nar-F'nar!) but the whole area is swimming in oil and they aren't, or shouldn't be, tight. It's not an inteference fit. You know how on the pushrod models like the V11 the cam followers sit in holes bored in the crankcase? Well this is just the same it's just that the followers/tappets have narrow stems rather than being as wide as the 'Foot' and the holes they run in are bored in the 'Scaffold' rather than in the head or the block. They, along with the camshafts themselves, will be the bits you'll be tossin' away and replacing. If the 'Mechanic' at the shop can't perform this task one would have to wonder how he manages to sleep through the night and continue breathing? Perhaps his partner has to sit next to him and poke him with something sharp every 5 to 8 seconds to keep him going? Pete PS, I'll see if I can somehow post up an exploded view of the head so you can have a looksee at how it all goes together.

Yup, sure is, its just a fraction of the price What a shitfight. Mate, I'm really sorry for you. Unfortunately in Oz individual dealers/service agents like me don't get access to the full warranty system, it's all *handled* by the importer otherwise I'd simply order the recall bits for you and post 'em over, it's not a big or complicated job. As it is I'd kick up a stink about this lack of interest and take it to another dealer. Is there more than one dealer in Northern Ireland? What about the Republic? It frustrates me so much, I hear stories like this from all over the world and its so friggin' un-neccessary. It's not like a Guzzi, even the 8V, is a particularly complex bit of kit and anyway, it's all just nuts and bolts at the end of the day. People shouldn't have this sort of grief!!! Pete

Sorry? The 'Black Guide'? Could you elaborate, do you mean the part that the little pushrods go in? If so they are the tappets, they are the bits that fail, they are a sort of inverted 'T' shape with a hollow stem the crosspiece of the 'T' is the tappet foot that contacts the cam. Yup, they're the tops of the tappets. Pete

The plug caps are a right bastard. There is of course a ridiculously expensive Guzzi special tool to get them out but Todd Haven sent me this link for what MPH use, presumably it is the sort of instrument used on a lot of modern cars. http://www.setools.com/spbplier.shtml I have been looking for something similar here but not very hard. I think I'll just order one from the USA. Pete

Wide and inconsistent tappet gaps. The gaps should be 4 thou inlet, 6 thou exhaust. Mine were very wide ex-factory and then closed up radically in the first 5,000Km, (During that period I checked them three or four times.) after which they settled down and when I checked 'em again at 10 and 15K they has closed up just a smidge, less than 1/2 a thou. It is very unlikely that all four cam lobes and tappets are going to let go simultaneously. Nor is it likely that the wear on all the components will be identical, for that reason what you are likely to find is one or two gaps that will be close to right and one or more that will be MUCH larger. Once wear starts it will be rapid, those cams are spinning pretty fast, stuff'll wear out quick if it ain't right, like in minutes not hours. Can you see swarf or particulate matter? I don't know. I have yet to see one that is in the process of failing. Mario who has seen a couple now says that once you get the scaffold that retains the cam off it is obvious as the whole area will be full of shrapnel. The cams themselves and the bath they run in are pretty effectively hidden by the scaffolding though. If the piston is at TDC compresion though it is possible to see the tops of the tappets where they protrude, (I think, this is from memory.) and obviously if there is a visible discrepancy between how much they protrude it will indicate that the foot of the tappet is wearing away. Rotating the motor by hand won't probably tell you much. It will always feel as though there are tight spots as compressing the valve springs takes effort. If the cam bearings are going to seize up, (And I've seen pics where one was ridden to death and this happened!) the cam will lock, the camchain sprocket will shatter and the engine will stop VERY, VERY quickly with bent valves and all sorts. This is one of the main reasons I strongly advise people to stop riding IMMEDIATELY if they suspect they have a problem. Noise is simply the indicator, checking the gaps with a guage is the diagnostic method, (If needed. If you can grab the rocker and waggle it about it is obviously 'Donald Ducked'.). This is one of those occasions where you diagnose by touch rather than eyesight. Pete

Agreed Greg, but most of that will come from mapping and freeing up the breathing. There is no room for a larger airbox and I don't think that pods will help much. Judicious experimentation with opeing up the airbox, (I'll be consulting Phil Arnold on that!) and getting a decent map modifier are the main things. Yes, port work will deliver a bit more but that is NOT the first thing to attack and we have to find out, (Probably through destruction testing ) exactly how lean we can make it and still keep reliability. The current fueling, at least at WFO, would indicate that opening up the airbox top and/or fitting a 'Flat' BMC/K7N type 'Filter' would give us probably another 4 or 5 horses right there, even with the current map. the problem is that at anything other than WFO it will go lean as crazy and detonate it's head off, run too hot on a steady cruising throttle etc. This is the shit with FI, you are now working in three dimensions rather than the two that you do with a carb. we NEED a map modifier and some way of influencing the closed loop running or probably better yet pissing it off all together, to get most of what we can out of the motor. As I said before, I don't think outright power is the issue. what that motor needs to be able to do is pull like a 14 year old with his first stick book, and it CAN, all the ingredients are there, they have just been pacified by those who want to save us from ourselves!!!!! Pete

If it has started to rattle haul the Scura out of hibernation and DON'T ride the 1200! I have seen the results of people continuing to ride them until they finally go 'BANG!' and it ain't pretty! Also while Guzzi tell us in their infinite wisdom that a quick flush will rinse out all the crap I have to say I'd at least take the sump off for a good clean out and remember the oil pumps are the ONLY parts that get un-filtered oil so if bits do start getting picked up the pump will be the main part to suffer! Even if you are told it isn't neccessary I'd pay 'em to have the sump dropped, it's only an hours work or so and the only bit you'd have to pay for is the gasket. Any I do that have started to fail I'll do it anyway for no charge but I'm probably a bit odd like that. I'd rather have happy customers that come back for all the right reasons than angry ones comiung back for the wrong ones. Mine remains tediously reliable but I have to admit that since I found out that some tappets are soft I've been riding the Mana more and the big 'G' less. I talked to our importer today and apparently our replacement parts are 'Imminent'. I take it this means that the Trireme has left Ostia and is even now being rowed towards the Suez canal by sweating Nubian slaves to the rythmic beat of a selection of Eurovison song contest winners greatest hits from the '70's and 80's! . Pete

I actually just ordered a pair for my Greasy-O 1200 as the stock chrome items are awful. Not only do they rust at the drop of a hat but the lenses come loose and they buzz! The 'Prilla type are used on the Stelvio and the 1200 Sport and use a 'Prilla part #. They are similar to the ones on my Mana but the Mana has differently lengthed stalks to keep the mirros symetrical on the bike. Certainly on the Mana they are about a zillion times better than the godawful chrome horrors on the Gris! Pete

For what its worth I think that the instructions supplied in the 'Service Bulletin' by Guzzi are among the worst examples of a piece of technical documentation I've seen in the whole of my life so when I do mine I intend to do another of my photo-essays that will hopefully be a bit more complete, accurate and explanatory. I'll probably post it up on WG as it's a format I'm used to and I've told Todd he's more than welcome to pinch it and stick it up on Guzzitech but if needs be I'll C&P the whole thing here. It really isn't a huge job but it IS mind boggling how bad the instructions are! http://www.servicemotoguzzi.com/public/com...en/002-2009.pdf Pete

Quite so. And perhaps in ten years or so time the factory, and probably other, independent outfits may well of got it lighter, stronger and reliable enough to produce the sorts of HP figures that the Bavarian twins are producing in their final itteration before they go to the preposterous new DOHC design. There are LOTS of places where the new package can be improved. Putting it on a SERIOUS diet would be the obvious one . Knocking 3 inches off the wheelbase would be the next!! Getting the fueling right would be the obvious place to start, currently it is just absurdly rich at WFO and in the closed loop area, yes, there is cooling to consider but if it needs that much evaporative cooling then there is something fundamentally flawed in the piston design! Pete

No, I just think that you haven't thought this through and are about to embark on something impractical and un-neccessary. Let's outline a few reasons why shall we? What will more power achive? A higher top speed? No. It won't. There is only ONE set of gearing for the 8V gearbox which is substantially different to the 4V gearbox. This is limited by the maximum RPM the motor can stand AT THIS TIME which is set a a fairly conservative but wise 8,500RPM. This gives you a top speed of 235KPH and even with the stock, shitty, map this is pretty much achievable 'On the Flat'. To get this 'More Power' you are going to need to play with a LOT of things but probably the most limiting factor is going to be airbox capacity. Yes, a larger airbox would be GREAT. Problem is there isn't room for one. I've owned both 4V and 8V grisos and they are essentially identical here. There is, unfortunately, no room for a bigger airbox. 'Hotter' cams? Why? The 4VPC configuration gives you a much larger valve area. On a slow reving twin increasing lift and duration will achieve little in the way of improving VE but WILL require heavier springs and will produce greater power LOSSES in the valvetrain as well as higher wear rates of components. Heavier springs may also require stronger, more expensive valves. There is also the Sword of Damaclese in the form of the dubious tappet design to take into account. will it actually handle higher spring pressures? OK, so 'Power' is Torque x Revs. So you raise the rev limiter and fit stronger rods. Fine. Is the oil pump going to cavitate? Are the cooling jets that prevent the pistons from melting still going to do their job if you increase the MEPS over what it is at 8.500RPM? If you do achieve 130HP will the clutch take it? Will the gearbox take it and remain reliable, (My guess is actually that it probably would be acceptably reliable even with heavy handed use.) will the CARC gears hold up? (Once again I think they would.) would the driveshaft hold up? (Hmmmm. That would be my biggest concern, small trunnions, silentblock bonded shaft?) It's not that I don't think that any of what you are saying is unachievable. Just that it is HIGHLY unlikely to be achievable without HUGE expense and greatly diminishing reliability and for what? Bragging rights? It'll still be an enormously heavy, stupendously long wheelbased, shaft drive, air cooled motorbike. It'll just be that it will no longer be reliable and will STILL be cut to pieces by anybody with any riding tallent on any true 'Sportsbike' over 600cc. Don't get me wrong. I think the bike is great as it is but honestly the mapping is crap. THAT is where to start and as I said in my first post 105-110HP should be fairly easily and reliably achievable. The BIGGEST gains though are going to be made by getting something organized to sort the fueling and ignition and improve the breathing both in and out. The restrictions AREN'T in the head so much as in the airbox and pipe and those cannot be sorted until we have a decent map modifier. Then we can look at turning it into what it should be, an absolute stump-puller from 2,750 through to where the cams come in at about 4,800 and then getting the mixture right above that point without leaning it out so much we start blowing holes in pistons or loosing the heads off valves. The 8V Griso is a superb ROAD bike but it is not and never will be, a true 'Sports' bike and neither will any contemporary Guzzi with the current motive package. You can dress it up in any clothes you like and I KNOW a lot of people are dying for an MGS-01 lookalike for the street and I would dearly love to see one too but it will NEVER be competitive in the true 'Sportsbike' market for the reasons listed two paragraphs above. This isn't me being negative. It is simply the laws of physics and the rules of engineering. For a fraction of the cost of building this unreliable munter you could have a bike from any number of manufacturers that will do everything you want AND have lots of dosh left over for other projects. Common sense and practicality to me, not negativity. And if I wanted to try and do such a thing money would be no object for me either so it isn't a 'Sour Grapes' thing. Pete

Close, but you forgot to mention the Dwarf Licking parties and most of Jon's neigbors panties are large enough to be used as trampolines and in some cases small, festive, marquees. It's not so much a case of trying to look up them as trying to work out ways of either avoiding them or turning them into something usefull. Jon being an aircraft engineer type has some ideas, but none of them have wings, (Fnar, Fnar.... ) Pete

Yeah! Wow! Great! There is no PC available and it dosn't look like there will be for a while. I reckon another 10HP should be easily achievable with map modifications. Who are you going to use to grind your cams? and to what profiles? The stock cams ae already fairly hairy, especially for a 4V motor. I'm working on mapping options. It's not easy, there isn't much available for the W5AM and nothing is cheap. All this sort of fantasy stuff is great. Unless you know a shitload I don't it all sounds like flannel to me. pete

Do a leak down test . If the gaskest are shot you'll hear bulk noise out of the engine breather. Guides? Remove heads, test for valve leakage, disassemble heads and feel for play betwixt valve stem and guide. If there were no oiling problems prior to the heads being 'Serviced' then it can only be gaskets or something that the shop has done. Like Greg I have never seen a set of heads on ANY big block that needed re-seating after such a short period of use. In fact apart from VERY early loopframes I can think of only about three big bloks I know of that have EVER needed new seats and they were very, very high mileage or the valves had been allowed to burn and then the seats were damaged by flame. Any chance of some pics of the combustion chambers of these 'serviced' heads? The shop did have enough heat equipment to drop the originals out, (Like a kiln maybe?) and a Serdi bench or equivalent to service the new seats? I still lean towards another cause though as this sort of stuff is actually quite hard to screw up so badly that you allow oil into the combustion chambers. There should be NO oil anywhere near the valve seats??? Pete

There definitely SHOUDN'T be great pools of oil in the combustion chgambers. There are only three ways for oil to get in there, either down exceptinally worn guides, from the pushrod holes, (Both of which are highly unlikely as what usually happens if the gaskets fail into the pushrod tubes is all the oil gets pumped out of the sump through the breather system, unless you only travel downhill on a trailing throttle it is unlikely to be that!) The third and most likely way is past the rings. so; Check the ring wear by taking the rings off the piston, setting them squarely in the bore and measuring the end gap. Make sure the rings are free to rotate in their grooves but without excessive up and down play. Are the rings in their correct grooves? Do you have an oil control ring that uses an expander? If so is it installed correctly? The top two rings? What position are they in? The top ring is a 'Plain' ring. It should have some mark on its top surface but this may of worn off. The second ring is an torsional taper-faced semi-scraper. It has a 'Step' on the outer edge of one face. This step should be facing DOWN towards the bottom of the piston. If it has been installed the wrong way up it will be pumping oil UP into the combustion chamber. The oil control ring, if one piece, is ambesidestrous. Check the ring lands for any cracks or unusual wear. Examine the bores closely. If they look extra shiney in patches they have probably glazed. You haven't been using a Friction Modified oil have you, (If the oil number has an FM suffix it is friction modified.) FM oils are instant bore glaze on air cooled engines. If this has happened use a boron ball hone to remove the glaze then go around with some 1200 wet and dry, wash VERY carefully in warm soapy water, dry, stick the ball hone through again and re-wash and dry. Install new rings. My guess is that you'll find the stepped ring installed in the top groove with the step facing up because it was thought to be a 'ridge hunter' ring. These are an antedeluvian device used on crappy old motors with cast iron bores and lousy tollerances. The top ring had a step so that if for some reason the piston rode higher in the bore than it did before the rebuild the "step' avoided the top ring running into a wear ridge in the cylinder. It's the sort of thing that hasn't been used since the days of the Morris Oxford but some nutter might of thought he was doing the right thing! Pete PS, Seat wear at 6,000 miles?????? Never seen it myself and while I might accept one faulty seat installation, all four????? Hmmmm.

Oh dear! 'Beer in Hand', probably NOT what Piaggio corporate would want. I have a feeling that Plaid and shriner membership is more their boat Pete

You marry a dumpy bird with big tits and an Australian passport Pete

Many may already of seen this but Mike and Todd have had a gutfull. MPH has dropped Guzzi. They'll still work on 'em but the 2nd biggest 'Dealer' in the USA has signed off with Piaggio USA. What more can you say..........?????? Pete

Walrus semen. Works a treat My Walrus milking instructions are available on DVD for not a lot of money if required Pete

I remain somewhat baffled by Ratch's 'Bouble Blind' argument. The reason I have taken to packing the temperature sensor is quite simply that my tool for reading the live data, (The Axone.) tells me that the information that the ECU is recieving from the sensor is manifestly wrong. Manifestly and consistently wrong, in many cases. Surely if you take the 'Double Blind' argument you could add a 'Triple Blind' in getting the tool to compensate for the compensation caused by the inaccuracy of the signal sent by the sender??? Look, I'm not saying I'm right. Simply that it makes sense to me to believe that the tool is supposed to tell me what is actually happening. Pete